Two questions...
1. I'm going to try that fiberglass/bondo trick on the seams using the trench method. Because I don't have a router, I was gonna try a ghetto approach. What do you think about using the dremel plunge router attachment ( http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4) with the dremel v-groove bit ( https://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=640)? Anyone have any other ideas to trench without buying a new tool?
2. I'm going crazy trying to decide on the top coat. I was just going to use rusto 2x gloss clear, but I think it'll take forever to build it up. I want to try a roll on but I've heard bad things about yellowing and such on lacquer/polyurethane/polycrylic etc. I was going to go for the rusto latex clear. Can someone suggest which top coat I should go with and why? This will be over rusto 2x oil enamel aerosol.
"you gotta be a lil crazy to stay sane..."
1. I'm going to try that fiberglass/bondo trick on the seams using the trench method. Because I don't have a router, I was gonna try a ghetto approach. What do you think about using the dremel plunge router attachment ( http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4) with the dremel v-groove bit ( https://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=640)? Anyone have any other ideas to trench without buying a new tool?
2. I'm going crazy trying to decide on the top coat. I was just going to use rusto 2x gloss clear, but I think it'll take forever to build it up. I want to try a roll on but I've heard bad things about yellowing and such on lacquer/polyurethane/polycrylic etc. I was going to go for the rusto latex clear. Can someone suggest which top coat I should go with and why? This will be over rusto 2x oil enamel aerosol.
"you gotta be a lil crazy to stay sane..."
Thanks for the information. Yellow glues are not common over here. We can get the Titebond range though.
jeffyh ; Gorilla brand adhesives are moisture cured polyurethane not polyvinyl acetate.
If the advice is not too late, you definitely want to follow the gentle suggestion on the manufacturers FAQ to leave securely clamped overnight - or at the very least 3-4 times longer than required with PVAs
Despite the claims, I doubt the putative extra toughness of the properly cured product offers any real advantages for loudspeaker enclosures over the far less messy and faster curing yellow wood glues.
If the advice is not too late, you definitely want to follow the gentle suggestion on the manufacturers FAQ to leave securely clamped overnight - or at the very least 3-4 times longer than required with PVAs
Despite the claims, I doubt the putative extra toughness of the properly cured product offers any real advantages for loudspeaker enclosures over the far less messy and faster curing yellow wood glues.
No worries, I use screws at this stage of development and let cure overnight with extra "clamps".
I know the original gorilla (Brown gel that expands/bubbles) is moisture cured but I thought I read somewhere that the gorilla wood glue was in the same category as the titebonds... If that's not the case, I'm gonna switch over to titebond 3.
EDIT: Chrisb, why do you use titebond 2 over 3? I seriously would chosen 3 solely based on the marketing that I see on the bottle of "premium" vs "ultimate". Lol
EDIT EDIT: just found this... http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/differences-between-titebond-glues/ guess there's no real reason to go 3.
"you gotta be a lil crazy to stay sane..."
jeffy - actually, we generally use the Red label "original" (Type 1), or Dural AW2300 - when you buy wood glue by the 5 gallon bucket at close to $20/gallon, those are pennies worth pinching. Commercial pricing for Type II is approx $33/Gal and the Type III is over $50.
We all need to remember that next time we wanna bitch about gasoline a $4 (BTW when there's no price war going on where prices can fluctuate over $.20 per liter in a day, our local gas prices presently convert to $4.88/ US gal - before currency exchange - but that's a conversation that could easily devolve into politics, which I avoid like the plague)
We all need to remember that next time we wanna bitch about gasoline a $4 (BTW when there's no price war going on where prices can fluctuate over $.20 per liter in a day, our local gas prices presently convert to $4.88/ US gal - before currency exchange - but that's a conversation that could easily devolve into politics, which I avoid like the plague)
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This is what you guys have started doing to me... build #3 screwless.
"you gotta be a lil crazy to stay sane..."
I use Titebond 2, very impressed with the strength and I got a lot more out of the bottle's than I expected. I don't think loudspeakers need glue any stronger.
I know the screws do nothing and the glue is stronger than the wood, but I'm still freaking out that the box is going to fall apart. I'm going to be running 1000W RMS through this thing.
Btw, confirmed that gorilla wood glue is PVA.
"you gotta be a lil crazy to stay sane..."
IMO...The screws may help keep joints in place. The corners of cabinets will be the strongest part of a speaker enclosure, its the centre of panels I'd be concerned about i.e panels resonating
That is the bondo brand resin i was talking about.
They have another kind with a boat on it that has less wax in it for doing multi step layups.
They have another kind with a boat on it that has less wax in it for doing multi step layups.
I believe titebond 3 is waterproof for non submerged applications.
I use titebond 2 for everything, my friend is a 40yr veteran at a high dollar cabinet shop and the only time they use anything else is if the job specifically calls for it.
I use titebond 2 for everything, my friend is a 40yr veteran at a high dollar cabinet shop and the only time they use anything else is if the job specifically calls for it.
I dont see the need to use a water resisant or water proof glue unless you plan to leave them out in the rain. Original tb1 would be just fine for most applications on solid or ply.
Am I just being OCD about this or is glue choice a technical subject with everyone having their own opinion. My friends dad is a woodworker and found out he only uses titebond 1. More people seem to use that than this gorilla wood glue I'm using so might as well switch when this bottle is up. So far the gorilla wood glue seems to be holding the butt joints completely fine.
Needed some other advice... I had to do some cross cuts and because of the way I designed the box based on cuts for simplicity (4 sides even height box, sandwiched by top and bottom) I'm having issues with uneven height of the sides by about 1/16". The sides have already been assembled into a box. Can anyone recommend any tips using simple tools to even out the edge height? I was thinking about using my old Stanley hand plane.
"you gotta be a lil crazy to stay sane..."
Needed some other advice... I had to do some cross cuts and because of the way I designed the box based on cuts for simplicity (4 sides even height box, sandwiched by top and bottom) I'm having issues with uneven height of the sides by about 1/16". The sides have already been assembled into a box. Can anyone recommend any tips using simple tools to even out the edge height? I was thinking about using my old Stanley hand plane.
"you gotta be a lil crazy to stay sane..."
1) yes, it's easy to get obsessive about some details, and many of us never quite get over some of those nervosas 😉
2) If the panels are slightly proud and/or uneven, a router with flush trim bit is one way, or if overhang is small enough, a power sander (I use an air powered RO for this purpose) or even long sanding block with 80G paper
2) If the panels are slightly proud and/or uneven, a router with flush trim bit is one way, or if overhang is small enough, a power sander (I use an air powered RO for this purpose) or even long sanding block with 80G paper
I finally made it to the curing step after the final clear coat. There's about 12 coats of clear and hopefully enough build-up to sand out all the orange peel.
I plan on wet sanding with 600 and 1000 grit then polishing it (not waxing). I'm using a Makita 9227CX3 7-Inch Hook and Loop Electronic Polisher-Sander but can't figure out which compounds to use. I want to use something I can get locally at Home Depot / Lowe's / Autozone / Pep Boys / etc.... I do have 3M rubbing compound, if that's not acceptable, could you suggest something else? Also, I heard I should use a foam pad instead of wool, is that accurate?
I plan on wet sanding with 600 and 1000 grit then polishing it (not waxing). I'm using a Makita 9227CX3 7-Inch Hook and Loop Electronic Polisher-Sander but can't figure out which compounds to use. I want to use something I can get locally at Home Depot / Lowe's / Autozone / Pep Boys / etc.... I do have 3M rubbing compound, if that's not acceptable, could you suggest something else? Also, I heard I should use a foam pad instead of wool, is that accurate?
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