I can't find one with the MKP model in a video comparison.
I can tell the AVX was better, but that guy's choices wouldn't be a tube builder's choices.
Let's bring the OP back on scene.
This ridicul discussion about cap x, y or z will lead the OP nowhere.
It only makes clear that absurd component ideas are like putting a finger in a bowl of water.
Great; you made a hole in the water.
What remains after you remove your finger?
Nothing, nothing at all.
Thisusername: Good advice.
Find the problem and remedy it. And stay away of these fancy stories of people who believe that the direction of the markings on a cable will influence the sonic quality of the sound.
Stay away of that crazy group of "experts" that spend their whole time finding a hiss, a brrr, a radiostation miles away and forget that it's better to listen to the music that they are disecting...
This ridicul discussion about cap x, y or z will lead the OP nowhere.
It only makes clear that absurd component ideas are like putting a finger in a bowl of water.
Great; you made a hole in the water.
What remains after you remove your finger?
Nothing, nothing at all.
Thisusername: Good advice.
Find the problem and remedy it. And stay away of these fancy stories of people who believe that the direction of the markings on a cable will influence the sonic quality of the sound.
Stay away of that crazy group of "experts" that spend their whole time finding a hiss, a brrr, a radiostation miles away and forget that it's better to listen to the music that they are disecting...
Not the OP, but....
Bias drift on the TSL and DSL amps of a certain age is / was a real problem. The PCB material used became slightly conductive over time, such that the high-voltage traces near the power tubes would leak into the grid traces.; such that the bias would drift less negative as the board warmed up, and the output tubes would end up red-plating. If this is what OP was addressiing,, then refitting the original bias arrangement makes no sense.
FWIW, Marshall's fix is to replace the power amp PCB; the newer ones are built with material that doesn't exhibit this leakage.
Now: Entirely possible that there is another leakage path that causes the hum / buzz. It would be consistent with the OP's statement that the buzz appears after some time warming up. But I never met that on any DSL / TSL that I fixed.
Cheers, and regards,
Ant
Usually that is a sign of flux residue That over time it gets contaminated and causes stray conductive paths.
But its not out of the ordinary for Marshall to try parts and stuff that are not really designed to go into tube amps.
None of that.
Not a "parts" problem by any means, not solvable by changing parts, even less if guided by Brand , the most irrelevant "parameter", I never ever saw any circuit design include Brand in design or involved Math.
I do see: capacitance - voltage - dielectric - polarity (if applicable) - MTBF - losses - self inductance - resonance, etc. but never ever "Brand".
Of course, those getting paid to push a particular one will insist it's most important.
Hey, Murata does not even mention Brand in their Real World capacitor analysis ... somebody should correct them, what do they know about capacitors anyway?
As of Marshall boards, it was a problem of board contamination.
Maybe resin formula itself, maybe improper washing during manufacturing, solved by issuing new boards.
With same type and brand components by the way.
Not a "parts" problem by any means, not solvable by changing parts, even less if guided by Brand , the most irrelevant "parameter", I never ever saw any circuit design include Brand in design or involved Math.
I do see: capacitance - voltage - dielectric - polarity (if applicable) - MTBF - losses - self inductance - resonance, etc. but never ever "Brand".
Of course, those getting paid to push a particular one will insist it's most important.
Hey, Murata does not even mention Brand in their Real World capacitor analysis ... somebody should correct them, what do they know about capacitors anyway?
As of Marshall boards, it was a problem of board contamination.
Maybe resin formula itself, maybe improper washing during manufacturing, solved by issuing new boards.
With same type and brand components by the way.
I don't like their MKP series. They sound fuzzy/veiled in the same tube circuit. They don't do this in lower voltage applications, like solid state circuits btw.
and I avoid putting new ones of those in because the supply chain was compromised, so its a guess if you are getting the real thing from digi-key or mouser or not.
Fuzzy implies distortion which is visible and measurable.
Veiled implies lack of high end, cutoff still within that Audio band (or it wouldn't be noticed) , very measurable.
Please show screen captures, frequency response curves, distortion measurements, showing consistent Brand to Brand differences.
Faith is an important part of our Culture but does not hold much weight in Electronics.
@JMFahey Or the way I describe it;
These parts may give certain tonal nuances in sound for some listeners, but they are definitely NOT creating any severe issues that are even obvious to the biggest audio noob.
When there is an obvious hiss, buzz, crackling or whatever, there is something wrong that is much more obvious.
These parts may give certain tonal nuances in sound for some listeners, but they are definitely NOT creating any severe issues that are even obvious to the biggest audio noob.
When there is an obvious hiss, buzz, crackling or whatever, there is something wrong that is much more obvious.
I can't see the shore anymore.
These discussions about components make us wander away from the problem of the OP.
Thisusername: come back to earth and "solve" the problem of the OP. No more, no less...
These discussions about components make us wander away from the problem of the OP.
Thisusername: come back to earth and "solve" the problem of the OP. No more, no less...
But seriously, you need to remove the caps or place back the pot board to troubleshoot the problem. They would cover up things that are malfunctioning....
Thisusername:
PLEASE come back to earth...
Let the OP react.
Until then,
Be serious:
you need to remove the caps
Better to go to a Mc Donalds so you no longer hear the brrrr.
or place back the pot board to troubleshoot the problem.
What is in your opinion "the problem"?
They would cover up things that are malfunctioning....
Who are "they"? Marshall, Putin, Me, You, a cup of coffee?
I like your reactions very much. I can't wait to read them. The give me a very fine way to have my morning coffee.
Oh yes, a very important tip:
if you ever replace a cap, make sure the markings are towards the frontpanel. The sound will be different if you don't.
Color of the caps is also very important as is the marking; nF or pF. Be aware of those marked in uF.
Now I stop and go on with serious work. I have to; I finished my cofffee.
Thank you for brighten up my day.
PLEASE come back to earth...
Let the OP react.
Until then,
Be serious:
you need to remove the caps
Better to go to a Mc Donalds so you no longer hear the brrrr.
or place back the pot board to troubleshoot the problem.
What is in your opinion "the problem"?
They would cover up things that are malfunctioning....
Who are "they"? Marshall, Putin, Me, You, a cup of coffee?
I like your reactions very much. I can't wait to read them. The give me a very fine way to have my morning coffee.
Oh yes, a very important tip:
if you ever replace a cap, make sure the markings are towards the frontpanel. The sound will be different if you don't.
Color of the caps is also very important as is the marking; nF or pF. Be aware of those marked in uF.
Now I stop and go on with serious work. I have to; I finished my cofffee.
Thank you for brighten up my day.