hello ttan98:
I am not familiar with the chr120.
As I indicated I am quite familiar with the A10p. I can say it is a very good driver. Extremely clear. I have it in a Frugel-Horn XL and it is quite wonderful in my living room. The horns produces reasonable bass. I augment the bass with a pair of small subwoofers that seem to work quite well. My amplifier is a 6v6 baby huey. The system has been great.
There are many reviews in this set up and most people seem to like it.
Not sure about 'facts' but that is the best answer I have.
I hope this helps
I am not familiar with the chr120.
As I indicated I am quite familiar with the A10p. I can say it is a very good driver. Extremely clear. I have it in a Frugel-Horn XL and it is quite wonderful in my living room. The horns produces reasonable bass. I augment the bass with a pair of small subwoofers that seem to work quite well. My amplifier is a 6v6 baby huey. The system has been great.
There are many reviews in this set up and most people seem to like it.
Not sure about 'facts' but that is the best answer I have.
I hope this helps
I can say that i too really like the A10p. The CHN-110 is more like an Alpai r10.3 in presentation.
dave
dave
Planet10,
Can 10p fit into a 35litre bass reflex enclosure(CHR120 can) because I don't space for a horn or MLTL floor standing cabinet?
Thanks
Can 10p fit into a 35litre bass reflex enclosure(CHR120 can) because I don't space for a horn or MLTL floor standing cabinet?
Thanks
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I cossign, it's very similar on specs as the 10.3 (the main difference the cone material) and i did build a 17.9L ported cabinet for the 10.3 that sounds very good. The 10P should fit perfectly to that also say simulations, but i did not try it in reality. I attached my plan as example. You can use that without adaptations but the notch filter (that is specific for the 10.3) i think.
Yep. Might need a bit of extra damping, but the point (well, one of) of the FH series is that they're meant to be flexible, within reason, so the builder can trim them out as desired via damping.
Hey folks
Was wondering how the chr120 in pensil12 would sound like.
Asking for a friend who wants to build as diverse use stereo setup.
He is not particularly a critical listener but enjoys good weighty presentation. He got really interested after hearing my FHXL with A11ms.
How would it compare to A11ms. Is it gonna sound radically different. I see more nonlinear response on the specs of chr120. How much of those are audible according to psychoacoustics is what i would like to know from you guys.
Any impressions on these drivers will be highly valuable to me.
Thanks
Was wondering how the chr120 in pensil12 would sound like.
Asking for a friend who wants to build as diverse use stereo setup.
He is not particularly a critical listener but enjoys good weighty presentation. He got really interested after hearing my FHXL with A11ms.
How would it compare to A11ms. Is it gonna sound radically different. I see more nonlinear response on the specs of chr120. How much of those are audible according to psychoacoustics is what i would like to know from you guys.
Any impressions on these drivers will be highly valuable to me.
Thanks
I'm running the CHR-120 in a Pencil enclosure for a couple of months now and I'm very impressed with this driver. There are very few widerange drivers with such a usable frequency range (for me). It can easily go to low 30s in a proper enclosure and goes to 20khz as well with limited comprimises. Some oberservations (just my personal view, not a generic truth):
• This driver does not only require significantly sized enclosures, it also requires a big room to really come to life in my opinion.
• Break in time is quite long, 100+ hours for sure like the older alpairs. So quite a bit longer than A11ms for example. It's really needed for both high frequencies (e.g. cimbals sounded a bit 'off' initially) and lows to loosen up.
• I like to use the driver fullrange. Its pefectly capable for high frequencies. And if I wanted another driver for top (e.g. alpair 5) I would probably use another driver for mid/bass.
• A11ms has slightly more 'refined' or 'articulate' midrange (can't think of better words to describe it) noticeable with light music with vocals or some instruments like violin or acoustic guitar. CHR-120 on the other hand goes deeper, and has a bigger soundstage.
• Its one of the few FR drivers that does not suffer from 'cluttering' with complex music such as metal or orchastral pieces. I like certain melodical metal bands a lot and I really enjoy how this driver handles this type of music (clear female voices, orchestral influences and heavy bass guitars). Obviously with this kind of driver only at home listening volumes, not to throw a concert.
• This driver does not only require significantly sized enclosures, it also requires a big room to really come to life in my opinion.
• Break in time is quite long, 100+ hours for sure like the older alpairs. So quite a bit longer than A11ms for example. It's really needed for both high frequencies (e.g. cimbals sounded a bit 'off' initially) and lows to loosen up.
• I like to use the driver fullrange. Its pefectly capable for high frequencies. And if I wanted another driver for top (e.g. alpair 5) I would probably use another driver for mid/bass.
• A11ms has slightly more 'refined' or 'articulate' midrange (can't think of better words to describe it) noticeable with light music with vocals or some instruments like violin or acoustic guitar. CHR-120 on the other hand goes deeper, and has a bigger soundstage.
• Its one of the few FR drivers that does not suffer from 'cluttering' with complex music such as metal or orchastral pieces. I like certain melodical metal bands a lot and I really enjoy how this driver handles this type of music (clear female voices, orchestral influences and heavy bass guitars). Obviously with this kind of driver only at home listening volumes, not to throw a concert.
Hello Hagsan,
I build the Hirola with the twin CHR-120 drivers per speaker and very happy with them, they trowe a huge soundstage and very deep bass so overall happy with them…
My question to you is next, i want to make the pensils you have for a good friend of mine,, the design is clear no problem there but i don’t understand wath they mean with 0,85 lbs/feet stuffing, how did you manage the stuffing?
Thank you in front, Rudi
I build the Hirola with the twin CHR-120 drivers per speaker and very happy with them, they trowe a huge soundstage and very deep bass so overall happy with them…
My question to you is next, i want to make the pensils you have for a good friend of mine,, the design is clear no problem there but i don’t understand wath they mean with 0,85 lbs/feet stuffing, how did you manage the stuffing?
Thank you in front, Rudi
It's set in emperial sizes as the designer uses those. But 0.85lbs/cubic feet is about 10kg/m³. So you need to see what the weight is of the stuffing material you use and add enough in mainly the upper side of the pipe.
I did use a few cheap pillow slopes (sealed it by stitching it) in my MLTL (very similar design) to put the stuffing (in my case rockwool sono) in and put that in place with a staple gun in the upper half. Rockwool Sono has a mass of 45kg/m³ so you should fill a quarter of the pipe with that in your case. But other materials can also be used, it's just that Rockwool Sono is widely availeble here and relative cheap.
I did use a few cheap pillow slopes (sealed it by stitching it) in my MLTL (very similar design) to put the stuffing (in my case rockwool sono) in and put that in place with a staple gun in the upper half. Rockwool Sono has a mass of 45kg/m³ so you should fill a quarter of the pipe with that in your case. But other materials can also be used, it's just that Rockwool Sono is widely availeble here and relative cheap.
Polyester hollow-fibre pillow stuffing, aka 'dacron' / 'polyfill' is the default material assumed, with a uniform density of material throughout the enclosure (albeit keeping it from direct proximity with the drive unit) as I note on the pdf plans. It's easily available online & from most craft / hobby stores; drapers too. Worst comes to the worst, buy a few pillows containing hollow-fibre stuffing material from the local supermarket, although that tends to be a more expensive option.
The box has a nominal Vb of 2.8ft^3, and since the nominal stuffing density is 0.85lbs (just over 13oz) of material to each cubic foot, we apply a simple multiplication: 2.8 * 0.85 = 2.38lbs of stuffing material for each enclosure. Converting to metric, 2.38lbs = 1Kg [nearly].
In practice many people find they prefer a lower stuffing density, but that is one of the purposes of the design: at the default damping level the pensils have a relatively flat impedance like a 'classic' TL, but they were also intended from the outset to give an LF alignment that builders can easily adjust by simply altering the stuffing density. That's why I design them with a removable rear panel -it makes adjusting the stuffing a lot easier.
The box has a nominal Vb of 2.8ft^3, and since the nominal stuffing density is 0.85lbs (just over 13oz) of material to each cubic foot, we apply a simple multiplication: 2.8 * 0.85 = 2.38lbs of stuffing material for each enclosure. Converting to metric, 2.38lbs = 1Kg [nearly].
In practice many people find they prefer a lower stuffing density, but that is one of the purposes of the design: at the default damping level the pensils have a relatively flat impedance like a 'classic' TL, but they were also intended from the outset to give an LF alignment that builders can easily adjust by simply altering the stuffing density. That's why I design them with a removable rear panel -it makes adjusting the stuffing a lot easier.
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In my implementation I have used about halve the amount recommended in Scott's design. So its a bit underdamped, but I prefer it in my room this way. Halving sounds like a lot, but in my experience it already reduces a large part of the unwanted harmonics while dampening the lower frequencies a bit less. Note that this is just my personal preference, not a recommendation.
You can always start with the recommended amount and change it to your liking. I only start chaning after the drivers are broken in though.
You can always start with the recommended amount and change it to your liking. I only start chaning after the drivers are broken in though.
Thank you all for the response, this is very helpfull… appreciat it ����
Scottmoose, can i ask you something, i Made the Hirola and used the 75mm vent, i find that they are sometimes to bass heavy, would the 100mm vent a better option?
Kind Regards Rudi and thank you very much for sharing your plans ��
Scottmoose, can i ask you something, i Made the Hirola and used the 75mm vent, i find that they are sometimes to bass heavy, would the 100mm vent a better option?
Kind Regards Rudi and thank you very much for sharing your plans ��
Thank you Dave, so i damped all the walls with a felt of 2cm according the plan!
So i should stuff it beneath the drivers with this damping?
Kind Regards Rudi
So i should stuff it beneath the drivers with this damping?
Kind Regards Rudi