I was watching the TV (as I have my Marantz amp set up with two tannoy mercury speakers, paired up with a digital audio converter) and the audio cut out.
Just as the audio cut out, I heard a click/clunk. The same sort of sound you hear when you power the amp on.
Could somebody possibly help with this?
Just as the audio cut out, I heard a click/clunk. The same sort of sound you hear when you power the amp on.
Could somebody possibly help with this?
Service manual and schematics are available in the net.
Protection relay can also be triggered by over current (overload) cirquitry.
I would start from replacing all lytics in the relay drive and over current detection circuits.
Some months ago there was a thread where over current detection was falsely triggered by semi failing diodes in that circuit.
Good news is that all these components are cheap but you have to start from somewhere 🙂
Protection relay can also be triggered by over current (overload) cirquitry.
I would start from replacing all lytics in the relay drive and over current detection circuits.
Some months ago there was a thread where over current detection was falsely triggered by semi failing diodes in that circuit.
Good news is that all these components are cheap but you have to start from somewhere 🙂
I’m not very technical with this sort of stuff. I saw another thread where the individual took the cap off the relay and press it down with a piece of plastic. I’ve tried that and the music plays fine like it did before. Does that narrow down what the problem is?
There could be excessive DC output offset, triggering the relay to open.
The whole point of the relay is to disconnect the output if there is a problem.
Do not replace any parts before checking the offset.
Or maybe the relay is dirty or corroded. Some try to clean the contacts, or you could just replace it.
The whole point of the relay is to disconnect the output if there is a problem.
Do not replace any parts before checking the offset.
Or maybe the relay is dirty or corroded. Some try to clean the contacts, or you could just replace it.
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When you take off the relay cover and press physically the relay "down" then the only thing that you prove is that the relay contacts are functional (when mechanically activated).
This method tells you nothing about the relay drive circuit or condition of the relay coil or the signals steering the protection circuit.
If electrical measurements and schematics reading are outside your comfort zone then it will be most difficult for you to fix this problem.
I have a multimeter to test the DC output offset. What sort of number am I looking for where there is a problem?