I just upgraded my Marantz CD67SE with LC Audio's AD8065 opamps. My upgrade went flawlessly due to the instructions on the following two webpages.
This first webpage identifies all the internal components of the CD63/67 .
The second webpage I'm referring to gives a detailed description on how to disassemble the CD67. Here's the link: Analog Output Stage Mod for Marantz CD-67SE
And here's the portion I'm referring too:
Stage One--Disassembling the CD-67SE
Unlike the mechanical mods, many--if not most--of which can be applied without removing the PC board, these mods require that you remove it from the case. So first remove the cover by unscrewing the two rear top-lip case screws and the four side screws, which have captivated washers. I like the copper screws they used on this player, but that's me. The only downside is that if you bung them up, you can't touch them up with a black magic Marker--oh well.
Then remove the top brace by unscrewing the four side mounting screws and lifting it up out of the player chassis proper. Then, depending on your preference, gently disconnect, one by one, all of the cable assemblies. There are several, and they vary in type, but are different enough so that you can easily identify them when it's time to put the thing back together. I found that with the ribbon cables, especially with the wider one, it helps to pull them up into a loop so that you can get a good grip and pull them evenly out of their sockets. With the Molex-style plugs, gently lift them by pulling evenly on each end at the same time until they pop out of their sockets. There is one locking socket that grips the 3-wire cable that comes from the front panel. Lift the locking lever and release the cable so that you can gently lift it from its socket. Finally, one harness that emanates from the laser assembly is held in place with a nylon retainer that requires that you spread the sides so you can remove the very delicate wires, so don't force it or you'll be a sorry formerly working CD player owner.
Once the cables have been disconnected, gently unscrew the rear-panel analog and digital (and remote control) jack retaining screws by holding them from the inside with your fingers and gently unscrewing them from the outside. Watch that you don't strip the plastic blocks that hold them, especially when you reassemble the unit. Then unscrew and remove all of the board retaining screws, noting that only one has a captivated washer--the one closest to the front panel center. The last ones you remove should be the ones that hold the power transformer down to the chassis, but first gently spring the power switch activating bar from the board-mounted push-pull switch by spreading the collar with a small screwdriver and using another screwdriver, push it out and off of the switchbar. Then, after the power switch has been disconnected and all of the board retaining screws removed, move the cables out of the way and lift the board up from the front so that the rear-located connectors can be pulled inside and free of the back panel and then lift the board up and out of the player. Whew.
Now that the instructions I followed are out of the way. Here are my impressions. Although the 'upgrade' made a noticeable improvement in the clarity of instruments and voices it really didn't do too much to add any more 'shimmer' to the treble or any more definition to the bass. Without any further mods I really get better overall performance out of my cheapie Sony DVD player through my Monarchy Audio DIP. It is for that reason that I assume that jitter is my worst enemy right now and I think my next mod might be the Kwak clock.
From another perspective. I'm left wondering if the AD8065 might not have been alittle overkill for a player in the CD67's price range. After all, the opamp upgrade cost about half of what I paid for my used CD67. A Ferrari motor in a Ford body? Hmmmmm.....
I would be interested in hearing the thoughts of some of the veterans in this area.
Regards,
Dan
This first webpage identifies all the internal components of the CD63/67 .
The second webpage I'm referring to gives a detailed description on how to disassemble the CD67. Here's the link: Analog Output Stage Mod for Marantz CD-67SE
And here's the portion I'm referring too:
Stage One--Disassembling the CD-67SE
Unlike the mechanical mods, many--if not most--of which can be applied without removing the PC board, these mods require that you remove it from the case. So first remove the cover by unscrewing the two rear top-lip case screws and the four side screws, which have captivated washers. I like the copper screws they used on this player, but that's me. The only downside is that if you bung them up, you can't touch them up with a black magic Marker--oh well.
Then remove the top brace by unscrewing the four side mounting screws and lifting it up out of the player chassis proper. Then, depending on your preference, gently disconnect, one by one, all of the cable assemblies. There are several, and they vary in type, but are different enough so that you can easily identify them when it's time to put the thing back together. I found that with the ribbon cables, especially with the wider one, it helps to pull them up into a loop so that you can get a good grip and pull them evenly out of their sockets. With the Molex-style plugs, gently lift them by pulling evenly on each end at the same time until they pop out of their sockets. There is one locking socket that grips the 3-wire cable that comes from the front panel. Lift the locking lever and release the cable so that you can gently lift it from its socket. Finally, one harness that emanates from the laser assembly is held in place with a nylon retainer that requires that you spread the sides so you can remove the very delicate wires, so don't force it or you'll be a sorry formerly working CD player owner.
Once the cables have been disconnected, gently unscrew the rear-panel analog and digital (and remote control) jack retaining screws by holding them from the inside with your fingers and gently unscrewing them from the outside. Watch that you don't strip the plastic blocks that hold them, especially when you reassemble the unit. Then unscrew and remove all of the board retaining screws, noting that only one has a captivated washer--the one closest to the front panel center. The last ones you remove should be the ones that hold the power transformer down to the chassis, but first gently spring the power switch activating bar from the board-mounted push-pull switch by spreading the collar with a small screwdriver and using another screwdriver, push it out and off of the switchbar. Then, after the power switch has been disconnected and all of the board retaining screws removed, move the cables out of the way and lift the board up from the front so that the rear-located connectors can be pulled inside and free of the back panel and then lift the board up and out of the player. Whew.
Now that the instructions I followed are out of the way. Here are my impressions. Although the 'upgrade' made a noticeable improvement in the clarity of instruments and voices it really didn't do too much to add any more 'shimmer' to the treble or any more definition to the bass. Without any further mods I really get better overall performance out of my cheapie Sony DVD player through my Monarchy Audio DIP. It is for that reason that I assume that jitter is my worst enemy right now and I think my next mod might be the Kwak clock.
From another perspective. I'm left wondering if the AD8065 might not have been alittle overkill for a player in the CD67's price range. After all, the opamp upgrade cost about half of what I paid for my used CD67. A Ferrari motor in a Ford body? Hmmmmm.....
I would be interested in hearing the thoughts of some of the veterans in this area.
Regards,
Dan
Don´t be worried about the money(unless you spended some that you don´t have). Just enjoy the sound and get to the next part and tweak more 🙂
I would rather have a Ford GT40 than a Ferrari... Any day
I would rather have a Ford GT40 than a Ferrari... Any day
Dan,
Good to hear your upgrades went well.
I have done almost all of the upgrades listed on the TNT site and they have all been positive.
Have you tried damping the chassis & transport yet?
If you are interested I can send you some conductive copper tape so you can shield all the ICs in the player, I can e-mail you pics of what it looks like to do this.
You might want to also try soft recovery diodes in the power supply as your next step.
Cheers
Kevin🙂
Good to hear your upgrades went well.
I have done almost all of the upgrades listed on the TNT site and they have all been positive.
Have you tried damping the chassis & transport yet?
If you are interested I can send you some conductive copper tape so you can shield all the ICs in the player, I can e-mail you pics of what it looks like to do this.
You might want to also try soft recovery diodes in the power supply as your next step.
Cheers
Kevin🙂
yeah a MUR860 or something would do really well...if you are into in..go for a real schotty diode..be careful of the voltage rating though...
Talking about overkill...
😱
More like some MUR2100.
This is not a power amp, man.😀
li_gangyi said:
😱
More like some MUR2100.
This is not a power amp, man.😀
ookieokie...but if you already have the parts on hand...anything will do...I mean almost every schotty diode will...look at the reverse voltage rating though...
Pick something from Percy Audio's offerings. I've had positive dealings with Mr. Percy and I'll continue doing business there.
Regards,
Dan
Regards,
Dan
The 4amp 600v Fairchild diodes from Michael Percy will fit the bill perfectly. No heatsink required.
You will need 8 for your CD player.
While you are ordering from Michael Percy you might as well order up a bunch of Nichicon KZ series caps as well.
Regards
KevinLee🙂
You will need 8 for your CD player.
While you are ordering from Michael Percy you might as well order up a bunch of Nichicon KZ series caps as well.
Regards
KevinLee🙂
Kevin,
Although I tend to catch on quickly at times. Some of the suggestions you emailed me may stretch my current abilities. Hence, I am going to approach further upgrades in a simple, methodical manner. My next two upgrades are going to be mechanical dampening and a Kwack clock. After that I think I'll do the diodes. And finally, when I determine the current values of the capacitors you've mentioned I intend on following your capacitor upgrade suggestions.
And in closing, I think part of the enjoyment of these upgrades is sitting back and analyzing the effect of each particular step.
Regards,
Dan
P.S. Thanks for the great suggestions!
Although I tend to catch on quickly at times. Some of the suggestions you emailed me may stretch my current abilities. Hence, I am going to approach further upgrades in a simple, methodical manner. My next two upgrades are going to be mechanical dampening and a Kwack clock. After that I think I'll do the diodes. And finally, when I determine the current values of the capacitors you've mentioned I intend on following your capacitor upgrade suggestions.
And in closing, I think part of the enjoyment of these upgrades is sitting back and analyzing the effect of each particular step.
Regards,
Dan
P.S. Thanks for the great suggestions!
the clock will give the best improvements....and rectifiers should be schottkys and not mur860....http://www.schuro.de/Daten/IR/11dq10.pdf
the better clocksupply - the better sound....good luck.
the better clocksupply - the better sound....good luck.
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