Hi guys.
I finally got a cd-63 KI and am looking to do some mods. Finally, since the KI's are pretty scarce in Canada. Is there a good précis of this thread somewhere? 18K posts are a bit overwhelming!
Thanks!
I finally got a cd-63 KI and am looking to do some mods. Finally, since the KI's are pretty scarce in Canada. Is there a good précis of this thread somewhere? 18K posts are a bit overwhelming!
Thanks!
A lot of the information we can give you all depends on your ability to upgrade and understand the circuits. There are simple guides that cover opamp changes , capacitor swaps , clocking etc and then there are more complex upgrades that include further clocking , multiple regulator installs, transformer upgrades etc etc.
Let us know where you are heading and we can try to point you to the correct guides etc
Brent
Let us know where you are heading and we can try to point you to the correct guides etc
Brent
Brent, I am not looking to compete with you for the worlds best cd-63! 🙂
Just looking for the best, bang for the buck upgrades. I can get some professional assistance if some of the mods are beyond my rudimentary soldering skills.
Thanks!
Just looking for the best, bang for the buck upgrades. I can get some professional assistance if some of the mods are beyond my rudimentary soldering skills.
Thanks!
The first thing I would do is change pretty much all the capacitors on the 5V rails. All except CD15 & CD16 I would fit Oscon SEPC, if you cannot get SEPC then other oscons will do a job. If you manage to get some Blackgates that would be even better. The above mentioned capacitors I would fit 16V 470uF Rubycon ZA / ZLG.
Once these are done I remove C813 and C814. If you can get a large value capcitor connected up. We use 25V 22000uF Mundorf caps here (we do have to drill the pcb so the legs fit. You can also turn the cap upside down and hardwire to the pcb. Shorting out the two fuses helps a lot too but it is best to wait until you are satisfied with the work and it all works without popping a fuse.
The it is the output section....
Brent
Once these are done I remove C813 and C814. If you can get a large value capcitor connected up. We use 25V 22000uF Mundorf caps here (we do have to drill the pcb so the legs fit. You can also turn the cap upside down and hardwire to the pcb. Shorting out the two fuses helps a lot too but it is best to wait until you are satisfied with the work and it all works without popping a fuse.
The it is the output section....
Brent
I've heard in discussions before that the biggest differences are op amps and clocks. Any truth?
how long a run period do do rubycon zlgs need on op amp de coupling found a load of sepc ocons next open up .
cheers alan
cheers alan
Sounds like a plan to me. Not like there will be too many others in the running, I wouldn't think. 🙂
Btw, being into it now, would it be a good time to change the laser? Seems like they are available pretty cheap on eBay. Can't imagine they last forever.
I bought a VAM1202/12 from Liberty Electronics (eBay seller id: bh5767). I haven't installed it yet but it certainly appears to be a genuine Philips part.
I'd just have one ready until the old one packs up - that's unless you want to read the writable formats that the original couldn't.
I'd just have one ready until the old one packs up - that's unless you want to read the writable formats that the original couldn't.
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What reliability upgrades? The only things that go wrong on these players are the lasers and dry joints on the output phono's?????
Replacing the laser is definitely not an upgrade because even the ones that say Philips on them are cheap crap by comparison to the originals. I've had 3 Philips units that have given problems.
If it doesn't need a laser, don't bother. Start replacing caps as suggested....
...until you start taking the board out regularly, in which case the display ribbon's days are numbered if you're not careful.