From my experience of two 1451 machines, I'd say it's a journey you'll enjoy and be on for a while. It seems to take a lot of work to get the last ounce of detail and refinement out of 'em, but your nice pcb will be a head-start over those of us using ancient machines!
I think the C1 is a great upgrade compared to the original crystal. I don't know the jitter specs, but I think you should not be fooled by the small PCB 😀. Some types of these SMD oscillators have very good jitter spec's. When I compared The Flea with Tentlabs XO to Brent's C2, jitter was almost the same on my test system.
A Flea may bring some more gain though, because the power supply is less noisy. The same goes for a C2! But I predict it won't be the same world of difference as the crystal and C1.
Ray
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That's exactly why I bought this PCB Simon. I did some tweaking on a CD65II once, but the layout and PSU decoupling are not good. It seriously limits the tweakability of that player. I thought about designing my own board, but then I ran into this one on e-Bay... 😀
Ray
Ray
My Arcam Alpha was VERY good recently. That is until a ground wire lifted itself in the night and allowed the full input voltage out of the decoder's super reg, frying it. And I was being soooo careful with this one! It's meant to be my last ever CD player (yeah, right).
My older Philips CD650 wasn't anywhere close in terms of layout but the old higher end ones look decent. A new DAC could use a pc as source and the newest thinking on TDA1541 implementation. I bet it's good.
My older Philips CD650 wasn't anywhere close in terms of layout but the old higher end ones look decent. A new DAC could use a pc as source and the newest thinking on TDA1541 implementation. I bet it's good.
Do a search on e-Bay for "TDA1541 DAC". You'll see anything between a bare PCB and a full kit.
Ray
Ray
It's an SAA7310GP (SMD). Thanks to Lee I have a replacement pull but I've not had chance to fit it yet. I've been very busy with other things, like being outside in the sun 🙂
Hopefully it'll work when the new chip's fitted.
Hopefully it'll work when the new chip's fitted.
I was just asking about the tx Ray because I'm pretty sure you'll get quite a large upgrade by giving the 7220 a beefier supply. It's always worked really well for me.
Cheers, Lee.
Cheers, Lee.
Yes, the weather is also perfect here at the moment. But sometimes I can't help myself and find me sitting upstairs at 28*C near the soldering iron 😀
Thanks for the tip Lee. It will be on my to-do list for this DAC! It's very easy to separate the 7220's supply, because it has it's own voltage regulator. The one with the biggest heatsink, because the good 'ol chip consumes 180mA! 😱 Only the oscillator is on the same supply, but i'm going to use a Flea for that anyway.
Ray
Very impressive work (as usual 🙂)... What are those green caps and the smaller black ones with gold lettering ?... I love caps 🙂 so I always start that way.
🙂 I've had one of these sitting in the box since christmas, I'm keeping it for a rainy day while I play with old philips players etc.
Are you using the DAC chip that comes with the kit, the date on the one that they sent me looks a bit suspicious I didn't think they were still being made in the 2000s.
Regards
Pete
Thanks! The four green ones are Nichicon Muse, 4700u/35V. I thought I'd give those a try. The bigger black ones are Black Gates, 220u/16V and the smaller ones are Panasonic FM.
No, I salvaged the chips from a broken CD40 player. Luckily the mech was still good, so that's a nice spare for my CD72 😀
I beleive the 1541 was produced in Holland untill 2000, read here.
Ray
Ray,
so your TDA1541A is a R1 spec? If you can change for a plain A, like a Taiwan one, or a S1/S2, defo better (before i start to use my CD40 as a cooking stove I've swapped it for the best).
so your TDA1541A is a R1 spec? If you can change for a plain A, like a Taiwan one, or a S1/S2, defo better (before i start to use my CD40 as a cooking stove I've swapped it for the best).
Yes I know, but i'm first going to use the standard 1541 and she what it does, before I spend as fortune on a better one 😀
Ray
Ray
Just an update, I received more lm317 and swapped on the pos teddyreg and voltages are now to specs. +13.5v and -14v😀
Thanks Ray!
Now, I can't get the player to read a disc. I hit play and the display blinks but no tracks are read. Sometimes the disc will spin, but it won't read.
Ray I advised I check some of the most recent mods done and I did but still no luck. Any other ideas?
Thanks Ray!
Now, I can't get the player to read a disc. I hit play and the display blinks but no tracks are read. Sometimes the disc will spin, but it won't read.
Ray I advised I check some of the most recent mods done and I did but still no luck. Any other ideas?
That's good news. Are the LM's properly regulating now (18V output)?
The problem with your player could have numerous causes. There's the dreaded ribbon cable that can cause problems, or a bad solder joint/soldering splashes, cracked PCB trace or pad... Worst scenario is that your laser died or one of the servo IC's died. Less likely, but possible.
Did you try the service mode yet?
Ray
The problem with your player could have numerous causes. There's the dreaded ribbon cable that can cause problems, or a bad solder joint/soldering splashes, cracked PCB trace or pad... Worst scenario is that your laser died or one of the servo IC's died. Less likely, but possible.
Did you try the service mode yet?
Ray
LM's are regulating at 18.5-19v.
OK, did the service mode and it says ERR 10 which is radial error
what does that mean?
OK, did the service mode and it says ERR 10 which is radial error
what does that mean?
Hm, unfortunately that's a very common error...
This requires some serious fault-finding. You have to check for correct supply voltages, and if the DAC get's it's clock signal. But first try re-seating the ribbon between the mainboard and the mech. Reversing it may help. Do you have a spare mech that you can swap?
Ray
This requires some serious fault-finding. You have to check for correct supply voltages, and if the DAC get's it's clock signal. But first try re-seating the ribbon between the mainboard and the mech. Reversing it may help. Do you have a spare mech that you can swap?
Ray