These can make thing worse..!:
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/other/filter.html - scroll down to 'Don't try this at home.' Not picking on you Simon - just pointing out that these things are incredibly context-dependant.
Not more than 4.7nF please - any more risks serious shock from casework if there's any problem in your earth installation.
martin clark said:
Sure, I'd better add that adding capicatance worked for me, in 3 houses, with varying systems. I didn't measure anything or study the technical side, nor do I know why it can work or in which contexts it may not.
Actually, I thought I'd not hear any difference with my current cheap bookshelf speakers, so I didn't even plug in my filter till recently. I was pleasantly surprised when it had the same effect again!
Simon
I've fitted Ray's CD63 things in the main:
My main is really bad, should be rock solid 238V like my former flat in town, now it's dancing from 215 to 220 with many noises ( I can tell when the washing machine is on... ).
I trust Ray for his good adivces, as my palyer sounds very good, but any backdraw of the filter?
My main is really bad, should be rock solid 238V like my former flat in town, now it's dancing from 215 to 220 with many noises ( I can tell when the washing machine is on... ).
I trust Ray for his good adivces, as my palyer sounds very good, but any backdraw of the filter?
Malefoda said:
It probably won't be helping the sound, nor will it be ruining it.
Sadly the fluctuations can't be helped short of complaining to the electricity supplier (good luck!) or buying a mains regeneration gizmo (expensive!)...
Unless some of it is caused by faulty or inadequate wiring in your house, which seems unlikely.
Good filters will have various capacitors fitted with decent clamping components. On LN LE NE with resistors to aid discharge.
Brent
Brent
Hi Guys
I have finsihed my CD63 project (for now).
Thanks for your help.
See this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1402288#post1402288
Apologies for bastardising a perfectly good unit and for being too lazy to improve the output and DAC stages.
I have finsihed my CD63 project (for now).
Thanks for your help.
See this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1402288#post1402288
Apologies for bastardising a perfectly good unit and for being too lazy to improve the output and DAC stages.
a decisive tweaking
Hello!
There is someone who want to try THIS?
For a simulation:HERE
at last, this is the Ray's page
The tweak is good for both series: 57/67 and 63.
There are only little differences in the output analog stage of both series, and the tweak is great for both.
I try this, and other, in this 3D of my forum
Thanks to Ray, Mauro, Loesch, and Tnt Audio
Ciao
Riccardo
Hello!
There is someone who want to try THIS?
For a simulation:HERE
at last, this is the Ray's page
The tweak is good for both series: 57/67 and 63.
There are only little differences in the output analog stage of both series, and the tweak is great for both.
I try this, and other, in this 3D of my forum
Thanks to Ray, Mauro, Loesch, and Tnt Audio
Ciao
Riccardo
Re: a decisive tweaking
Your work is an inspiration for me.
Congratulations.
Thank you for this tweak.
Ricardo
dublin78 said:
Your work is an inspiration for me.
Congratulations.
Riccardoriccardo said:
Thank you for this tweak.
Ricardo
I hope youìll give us your feedback about this tweak.
That is great, imho.
Anyway, don't forget that this idea it isn't mine, but of Mauro Penasa
That is great, imho.
Anyway, don't forget that this idea it isn't mine, but of Mauro Penasa
Problems!
So I have replaced all the caps FC on P/S, BlackGate on op-amp, replaced voltage regs with 2% units, replaced the op-amps with LM4562's, removed mute and HDAM and wired the output of the op-amp directly to new gold RCA jacks on the back. The player was working fine for months. Now all of a sudden, I start it up and put a CD in and it plays fine for a while then it starts to get staticy and the volume fades until there is no output at all. The only thing I can think of is driving the cables direct with the op-amp. Would putting a 100K from op-amp output to ground solve this?
Any other ideas? I'd like to fix this so I can sell it in working condition on eBay. My wife got me a C521BEE for Christmas that I already modded with AD627's on adapter boards!
Thanx in advance!
So I have replaced all the caps FC on P/S, BlackGate on op-amp, replaced voltage regs with 2% units, replaced the op-amps with LM4562's, removed mute and HDAM and wired the output of the op-amp directly to new gold RCA jacks on the back. The player was working fine for months. Now all of a sudden, I start it up and put a CD in and it plays fine for a while then it starts to get staticy and the volume fades until there is no output at all. The only thing I can think of is driving the cables direct with the op-amp. Would putting a 100K from op-amp output to ground solve this?
Any other ideas? I'd like to fix this so I can sell it in working condition on eBay. My wife got me a C521BEE for Christmas that I already modded with AD627's on adapter boards!
Thanx in advance!
Sounds like a V rail is down or breaking down. It could be a broken pad where a capacitor has been fitted.
Check the +12V/-12V rails on the opamps, if these are ok then I would look around the dac caps
Brent
Check the +12V/-12V rails on the opamps, if these are ok then I would look around the dac caps
Brent
Re: Problems!
My pre-amp is just these op-amps, that's not going to be your problem!
craigtone said:
My pre-amp is just these op-amps, that's not going to be your problem!
After my last modds on the CD spinner (superregs with BG cap on the capacitance multiplier) used to power the dac analog, I have been noticing big improvements with time.
I will try more of these superegs on the digital +5v rails and will report latter.
As all my technical questions have allways been solved in this forum, I am now exposing a tottaly different question hoping you can point me in the right direction:
I am rebuilding a power amp (DENON POA 6600 A) and believe I am almost done.
However I am getting some trouble getting the the bias simetrical in the pre drivers bases.
This is a push pull amp that relies on a optical ship to set bias.
On the top pre driver I get 1.67v and the lower predriver base I get -1.79v. (These values should be +-1.7V)
On the drivers bases I get 1.04v (top) and -1.19v (bottom driver). (These should read +-1.1v)
The final stage is composed of four 2SC3856 and four A1492.
I should be able to get +-0.5v on the output transistors bases but I can only get 0.48v on the 2SC3856 bases and -0.62v on the bases of the A1492.
I have not soldered the output transistors yet so the readings are made in the drivers and pre drivers only (without output stage).
I did not solder the output transistors because I am afraid these voltage differences might provoque an oscilation and burn the outputs.
I really need some help and advise.
Best Regards
Ricardo
I will try more of these superegs on the digital +5v rails and will report latter.
As all my technical questions have allways been solved in this forum, I am now exposing a tottaly different question hoping you can point me in the right direction:
I am rebuilding a power amp (DENON POA 6600 A) and believe I am almost done.
However I am getting some trouble getting the the bias simetrical in the pre drivers bases.
This is a push pull amp that relies on a optical ship to set bias.
On the top pre driver I get 1.67v and the lower predriver base I get -1.79v. (These values should be +-1.7V)
On the drivers bases I get 1.04v (top) and -1.19v (bottom driver). (These should read +-1.1v)
The final stage is composed of four 2SC3856 and four A1492.
I should be able to get +-0.5v on the output transistors bases but I can only get 0.48v on the 2SC3856 bases and -0.62v on the bases of the A1492.
I have not soldered the output transistors yet so the readings are made in the drivers and pre drivers only (without output stage).
I did not solder the output transistors because I am afraid these voltage differences might provoque an oscilation and burn the outputs.
I really need some help and advise.
Best Regards
Ricardo
) to these films. MUCH better resolution now. It's really like night and day.
Hi Ricardo
I think your measurements is close enough to what is specified, those figures is based on theory.
André
I think your measurements is close enough to what is specified, those figures is based on theory.
André
AD8066
I've no output caps, sounds even better =)
Does discrete output need it?
Anyway, if there is still some opamps folks around there, anyone had an ear to the AD8066?
Matthieu
I've no output caps, sounds even better =)
Does discrete output need it?
Anyway, if there is still some opamps folks around there, anyone had an ear to the AD8066?
Matthieu
Re: AD8066
Sadly it does. I still need to use good ones in place of my old military stock WIMAs.
Malefoda said:
Sadly it does. I still need to use good ones in place of my old military stock WIMAs.