RCruz said:
Hi Ricardo,
The servo chip is the circuit that controls the driving of the laser pickup. It drives the sled-motor and controls the up/down (focus) and left/right (radial) movement of the laserlens. It is not directly involved in processing the data-signal for audio, but you can imagine a stable servo will contribute to a good HF signal that comes off the CD.
Regards,
Ray
Thank you Ray
I will report my mods relating this subject...
I have another pertinent question:
You suggest replacing the psu diodes (CD 53 SE) with 11DQ10 schottky and I did so in the digital area with great results (more detail and overal definition).
I want to replace the ones in the analog PSU but I am considering the alternatives : HFA08TB60 EXFRED or BYW98-200 fast rectifier diodes.
Can you briefly explain the possible differences and results.
best regards
I will report my mods relating this subject...
I have another pertinent question:
You suggest replacing the psu diodes (CD 53 SE) with 11DQ10 schottky and I did so in the digital area with great results (more detail and overal definition).
I want to replace the ones in the analog PSU but I am considering the alternatives : HFA08TB60 EXFRED or BYW98-200 fast rectifier diodes.
Can you briefly explain the possible differences and results.
best regards
Hi Ray6h5c said:
The C120 and C122 are now 2200uF/6,3v Rubycon MCZ and I have better L/R separation and more detail in the upper bass.
The bass that went away with the C505 2200pF Styroflex is back
😉 😉 😉
Can you advise on replacing C124 (VREF out) ?
Can this mod create a ressonance or malfunction ?
Regards
Just saying thanks for the help Brent. That problem was due to bad ac from overheating tx. Cheers mate.
Lee.
Lee.
On the "SuperRaygulator", is it best to have the capacitance multiplier or a good-quality cap on the input? Which has the faster response or is quieter?
Lee.
Lee.
RCruz said:
Hi Ricardo,
I would go for the 11DQ10 (or MBR1100) schottky; the other ones are diodes with controlled reverse recovery and are very fast, which isn't very nescessary here since we're rectifying only 50Hz. The schottkys are fast as well, without virtually any recovery problems, so it doesn't have to be controlled either 😉.
But some have reported good gains using the other diodes, although I think the HEXFRED's are a bit of a hype ATM. They're nice in a switch-mode power-supply 😀.
C124 can be upgraded, but don't make it too big. If the reference voltage comes up too slow it could cause funny side effects. A 100u/16V Pana FC will do fine there, no need for fancy BG's.
Regards,
Ray
Diodes
Just buy the HEXFREDs. It will give you peace of mind that you are using what some people consider to be the best-sounding, including Audiocom. The difference will be subtle.
Simon
RCruz said:
Just buy the HEXFREDs. It will give you peace of mind that you are using what some people consider to be the best-sounding, including Audiocom. The difference will be subtle.
Simon
I use the exact same HexFreds in my cdp. I found them to help the dynamics of the sound a very tiny bit over the schottky I were using.
I have been looking and you can get 4amp versions now HFA04TB60 and they are alot cheaper than the 8amp ones.
Brent
I have been looking and you can get 4amp versions now HFA04TB60 and they are alot cheaper than the 8amp ones.
Brent
I have finalised a few of the tx upgrades and sorted a few loose ends on clocks and reg locations where possible.
Simon saw it in the flesh yesterday.
SEE PICS HERE
Brent
Simon saw it in the flesh yesterday.
SEE PICS HERE
Brent
I had a very pleasent listening session at Simons last night with good ales and a nicely improved sound over the last visit a few months ago.
Very sweet vocals, plenty of natural bass and good treble timing.
Brent
Very sweet vocals, plenty of natural bass and good treble timing.
Brent
Mostly off-topic
Thanks man!
The improvements are:
* use of Marantz MA-500 mono power amps
* massive toroid in preamp
* BG AC type in preamp
* C1 clock on servo in CD63
* S Power on DAC analogue in CD63
* S Powers on output stage
I'm pretty sure none of those mods were in place last time.
The sweet vocals are a product of the Marantz amps and the Black Gates in the preamp.
The treble timing was improved by the C1 on the servo, as were detail levels.
The S Powers on the output stage took that treble and made it clear and present. Forthright and accurate.
Simon
rowemeister said:
Thanks man!
The improvements are:
* use of Marantz MA-500 mono power amps
* massive toroid in preamp
* BG AC type in preamp
* C1 clock on servo in CD63
* S Power on DAC analogue in CD63
* S Powers on output stage
I'm pretty sure none of those mods were in place last time.
The sweet vocals are a product of the Marantz amps and the Black Gates in the preamp.
The treble timing was improved by the C1 on the servo, as were detail levels.
The S Powers on the output stage took that treble and made it clear and present. Forthright and accurate.
Simon
err no dont thinks so, maybe the DAC analogue had the SPower on.
Excellent news on the regs. It pleases me.
Brent
Excellent news on the regs. It pleases me.
Brent
rowemeister said:
Hi Brent
Incredible pics...... really great stuff there.
Can you suggest an upgrade opamp for the audio section of my CD 53 SE ?
Thanks
I like the audio from the LM4562NA, especially with black gate caps on the power rails, if you don't want black gate then Cerefine or Silmics are decent enough.
Brent
I like the audio from the LM4562NA, especially with black gate caps on the power rails, if you don't want black gate then Cerefine or Silmics are decent enough.
Brent
rowemeister said:
I agree. Also check out the Rubycon ZA, ZL etc caps. These sound excellent also.
Lee.
rowemeister said:
Thank You brent
I would like some gidance on this because I am not familiar with the concept.
May I just replace the opamps without any more mods ?
Are these the same size and the same pin distribution as the original ones ?
What about the power input... does it need to be modified ?
Must I do some major modifications in the original PCB layout?
Regards
No modifications required the opamps are a straight swap, I would however recommend shorting out the 4 feed resistors right next to the opamps. This seemd to give more punch to the bass.
Brent
Brent