SimontY said:
Not sure why this would be - they would have a constant 24V across them. A normal polarised electrolytic would be fine here... unless I'm missing something...
Epicurean said:
Yeah I'm hoping somebody will try this one day too... maybe I will myself... I have a virgin CD63 lying around waiting to be deflowered.
I was thinking of trying out Ray's filter on it.Actually I got it for spares as it was knackered - you had to open the drawer with the remote because the open/close button didn't work, the sound came and went from either channel randomly, and it skipped!
I swapped the tact switch behind the open/close button for the switch behind one of those little gold buttons ('Edit') and then found that both buttons worked fine (must've been a dry joint rather than worn switch). The coming and going was dry joints on the RCA - easily fixed. Threw in a spare VAM1202 and she's good as new now. 😀
Malefoda said:
Yes there is a type of pre MKII
Basically there is a MKI 63
Then there are a pile of them out there with the SE pcb fitted (no copper HDAM and standard TX) These were later versions.
The MKII has SE pcb with SE TX and a strut brace. (The SE has copper cans and bottom plate)
Note on the 53. A lot of the caps and resistors on the 53 are lower grade/lower value than the 63 ((TX included)defo lower grade than the later MKI and MKII). But if its being modded most of these parts will be changed anyway.
Brent
Yes the TX makes a big difference. In the KI the TX is a good 90% why the it sounds better than a SE.
I say always get the best TX you can. (The KI TX is very good)
Brent
I say always get the best TX you can. (The KI TX is very good)
Brent
If you get the SE one yes (I think 67SE TX is pretty much the same too). There is more VA for the opamps.
Smoother deeper audio with better attack and dynamics.
Brent
Smoother deeper audio with better attack and dynamics.
Brent
Hi guys.
The other day I added an extra tx to my modded ki (2x9v) for the analogue and digital and I'm shocked at the difference, it's way better in every area.
I am now looking at fitting another to power the superclock II as I think this will be the best improvement. What VA rating would be ideal anyone please?
I have used 30va for the previous one cos that is all I had and I know it's total overkill.
Also, would it be wise to fuse protect those extra tx's?
Lee.
The other day I added an extra tx to my modded ki (2x9v) for the analogue and digital and I'm shocked at the difference, it's way better in every area.
I am now looking at fitting another to power the superclock II as I think this will be the best improvement. What VA rating would be ideal anyone please?
I have used 30va for the previous one cos that is all I had and I know it's total overkill.
Also, would it be wise to fuse protect those extra tx's?
Lee.
Yes 30Va is way overkill LOL
Audiocom use a 1.6VA per winding TX for their clock pre reg pcb which is also overkill. So aim around that kind of figure.
I don't fuse mine! I use the same type as Audiocom (Nuvotem) who also make the KI TX's. They are fully encapculated and whould not pose a problem.
Brent
Audiocom use a 1.6VA per winding TX for their clock pre reg pcb which is also overkill. So aim around that kind of figure.
I don't fuse mine! I use the same type as Audiocom (Nuvotem) who also make the KI TX's. They are fully encapculated and whould not pose a problem.
Brent
Thomo said:
My extra transformers are overkill and so was the sonic improvement. Coincidence?
Ok, that's not specific advice is it? Just saying don't worry about using some big uns if it's all you've got.
I've not bothered with a fuse myself. The kind of mistakes I make tend to blow 13A fuses anyway, of which one remains.
Simon
Aaahh. I thought 30va was overkill but I didn't realise how much!
I do intend to swap it at some point for a slightly smaller version though. It fits EXACTLY in the "V" shape of the drawer when closed.
Thanks for the advice Brent. I assume the other parts of the circuit wouldn't need any more va than the clock either then?
Lee.
I do intend to swap it at some point for a slightly smaller version though. It fits EXACTLY in the "V" shape of the drawer when closed.
Thanks for the advice Brent. I assume the other parts of the circuit wouldn't need any more va than the clock either then?
Lee.
Thomo said:
The DAC and op-amps need a lot more than the clock. And you want to have more VA than you need for the best sound.
I think if you perform an all-day searching session you may find the exact figures relatively early in this thread! Good luck!
Simon
The opamps benefit the most but I left the standard KI tx for this as its overkill too (especially now that winding only runs the output).
I use seperate TXs for all my regs 6 extra windings. Remember everytime you remove one circuit from the standard tx the circuits using it also benefit as less is sharing the VA.
Brent
I use seperate TXs for all my regs 6 extra windings. Remember everytime you remove one circuit from the standard tx the circuits using it also benefit as less is sharing the VA.
Brent
Analogue circuits require more VA. They by nature require more current to perform therefore OPamps/discrete and analogue 5V for DAC require the most VA. Anything digital requires much smaller amounts of VA.
Brent
Brent
SimontY said:
I think i'd look like you in your new avatar if I did that! lol.
I would like to keep the extra tx's internal as I'm low on space but I can't find Nuvotem at RS & Farnell, where do you get them Brent?
I think I'll keep the 30va and in future use it solely for analogue and add other smaller ones for digital.
Lee.
Just got home and found a UPS delivery ticket behind the door, the shipper is Nat. Semi. !!! Now that is what I call QUICK! Have arranged to send it to a factory down the road as I know someone will be there. Tomoz night I should be installing my new LM4562 opamps!