Hi guys. Just a quick one.
I would like to use a larger value cap to decouple the opamps (op627). Would this cap have to be bi-polar? I think Simon has used a Pana FC but i'm unsure if it's bi-polar.
Could I use my 47uF BG PK's?
Cheers, Lee.
I would like to use a larger value cap to decouple the opamps (op627). Would this cap have to be bi-polar? I think Simon has used a Pana FC but i'm unsure if it's bi-polar.
Could I use my 47uF BG PK's?
Cheers, Lee.
I noticed that in a 53 I modded all the resistors were different to my 63KI. Maybe closer tolerance?
Thomo said:I noticed that in a 53 I modded all the resistors were different to my 63KI. Maybe closer tolerance?
Hmmm... maybe. I've had two 63s. The first one (made in Japan) had light brown resistors, the second one (made in Singapore) had blue ones... so your differences may be just down to them being made at different times and/or in different factories. There were other slight batch differences in non critical areas but they were both standard CD-63 models.
Thomo said:Hi guys. Just a quick one.
I would like to use a larger value cap to decouple the opamps (op627). Would this cap have to be bi-polar? I think Simon has used a Pana FC but i'm unsure if it's bi-polar.
Could I use my 47uF BG PK's?
Cheers, Lee.
You would use polarised caps in these positions, not bi-polar. They have a constant 12v across them. 47uF is a little small but you could try them. Personally if I had to pick a value I'd pick 220uF/16V parts.... but 100uF-470uF is the area you really want to be playing in (IMO, YMMV etc etc!)
Glenn
Ok thanks, but I think I should clarify a little.
I actually meant directly under the opamps between pins 4 & 8 (+ & - Supply pins).
I am currently using Panasonic 220n PPS but I think I remember reading Simonty using some Pana FC's of a much larger value than this.
Lee.
I actually meant directly under the opamps between pins 4 & 8 (+ & - Supply pins).
I am currently using Panasonic 220n PPS but I think I remember reading Simonty using some Pana FC's of a much larger value than this.
Lee.
Thomo said:Ok thanks, but I think I should clarify a little.
I actually meant directly under the opamps between pins 4 & 8 (+ & - Supply pins).
I am currently using Panasonic 220n PPS but I think I remember reading Simonty using some Pana FC's of a much larger value than this.
Lee.
Oh I see - as long as the voltage rating exceeds 24V.
Thanks for that.
Unfortunately my bg pk's are 25v. A little too close for my liking.
Cheers again,
Lee.
Unfortunately my bg pk's are 25v. A little too close for my liking.
Cheers again,
Lee.
Glenn2 said:Hi Andy,
Yes, what I really wanted to know was:
a) was happened between Mk1 and Mk2 versions.
The differences between the Mk1 and 2 are small - slightly different component values and types.
b) other than tranny and casework, what else does the KI have.
I've heard before that the KI has better components.... but I can't see any evidence of this apart from the transformer.
The name on the front and hype !!!! Most of the changes are very slight (rather like those in the KI DP!)
My old bog-standard CD-63 had the full complement of Silmics and Cerafines etc. The HDAM covers were not copper like the SE/KI.
Copper plated..
The manual lists most of the component differences between models but not chassis changes. As you observe, the main changes were in cap. type.(BTW - The 53 lacks HDAM and optical out, 43 lacks HDAM, optical out and remote. They also use ceramic capacitors in the LPF. The 43 also has lower-grade op-amps and no audio electrolytics.)
Andy
poynton said:The name on the front and hype !!!! Most of the changes are very slight (rather like those in the KI DP!)
You mean the
CD-63MkIISE-KI-DP
Damn - I knew I missed one...😀
Cheers Andy...
Glenn
I do have a CD53, wich was sold to me as "already a MkII" but without any outside proof. The guy -famous ear around- told me Marantz already changed things inside, like the fact the amplification was higher, and that soon they'll make commercial benefit of it by selling it under the MkII name and a rise in price. So it seems there is a pre-MkII!
The fact is that for modding it, I've also advised a friend to buy a CD53. A standard CD63 only have the HDAM on: will be bypassed, so why find a more expensive CD63 to make it a 53?
I find funny to have a CD53 much more good than a standard... CD63SE!
The fact is that for modding it, I've also advised a friend to buy a CD53. A standard CD63 only have the HDAM on: will be bypassed, so why find a more expensive CD63 to make it a 53?
I find funny to have a CD53 much more good than a standard... CD63SE!
I guess Brent will chime in as he has modded millions of these players. He was saying the other day the CD63Mk2 when stock sounds a lot better than the Mk1. They added some bonus extras that make it closer to the "SE" spec.
Simon
Simon
Thomo said:Hi guys. Just a quick one.
I would like to use a larger value cap to decouple the opamps (op627). Would this cap have to be bi-polar? I think Simon has used a Pana FC but i'm unsure if it's bi-polar.
Could I use my 47uF BG PK's?
Cheers, Lee.
The only caps that need to be bipolar are the ones that go from + to -. The others can be normal electrolytics. Black Gate would be a fine choice. I intend to remove my Fcs soon as it might be better without now that I've upgraded to BGs in the positions that were originally Elna Cerafines.
Simon
Thanks Simon.
I have (all Black Gates) 100uF 50v where cerafines were, 220uF 16v on dac analogue & 47uF 25v BG PK on dac digital lines.
Why do you want to remove the cap under the opamps? I thought its purpose was to prevent oscilation in the opamps.
Lee.
I have (all Black Gates) 100uF 50v where cerafines were, 220uF 16v on dac analogue & 47uF 25v BG PK on dac digital lines.
Why do you want to remove the cap under the opamps? I thought its purpose was to prevent oscilation in the opamps.
Lee.
Thomo said:Thanks Simon.
I have (all Black Gates) 100uF 50v where cerafines were, 220uF 16v on dac analogue & 47uF 25v BG PK on dac digital lines.
Why do you want to remove the cap under the opamps? I thought its purpose was to prevent oscilation in the opamps.
Lee.
Hi Lee,
I'd imagine it sounds good with all those BGs, very smooth? I want to remove them because I'd like the caps closest to the op-amps to be good ones. They're not there to prevent oscillation as far as I'm concerned, just to make it sound better. It's so long since they've been in and so much has happened since I need to reasess it. One more thing to try before it finally goes discrete!
Simon
Yes it does sound rather smooth. I've just installed an extra toroid 2x 12v to supply my 5v invisus (analogue) and 5v digital circuits. Can't listen now it's too late.
Besides the wife is giving me chelp cos it's Saturday night. See ya.
Lee.
Besides the wife is giving me chelp cos it's Saturday night. See ya.
Lee.
Just been poking around some more.
18V reg seems to be working OK
C521,522 - Does eveyones caps look like they've had the tops dipped in black nail polish, or have mine blown?
18V reg seems to be working OK
C521,522 - Does eveyones caps look like they've had the tops dipped in black nail polish, or have mine blown?
Also, in case all else fails, there's a CD53 on EBay that I could pick up.
Is it the same circuit board with different parts as the 63?
Also it's 120V, but if I transfer my 240V transformer across, will everything be fine?
Thanks
Simon 'Keep the probe away from the CD player' (Oz)
Is it the same circuit board with different parts as the 63?
Also it's 120V, but if I transfer my 240V transformer across, will everything be fine?
Thanks
Simon 'Keep the probe away from the CD player' (Oz)
YoungSC said:Just been poking around some more.
18V reg seems to be working OK
C521,522 - Does eveyones caps look like they've had the tops dipped in black nail polish, or have mine blown?
Yes they are supposed to look that way. I have replaced mine with silver mica as it's clock output to decoder.
YoungSC said:Also, in case all else fails, there's a CD53 on EBay that I could pick up.
Is it the same circuit board with different parts as the 63?
Also it's 120V, but if I transfer my 240V transformer across, will everything be fine?
Yes I am fairly sure it's the same board. There'll be some jumpers that'll be different, definately before the tx and maybe elsewhere on the board. Someone else may know more on this though. I'm no expert, that's for sure!
Lee.
I don;t think you'll need to swap the transformer - they are all the same, just a jumper wire or two to move will run the transforemr on 120v or 240v (puts primary windings in parallel or series)
OK cool
I'd change the transformer because it is the KI Sig toroidal so should be better, but at least I'll have a backup in case I destroy it 🙂.
I'd change the transformer because it is the KI Sig toroidal so should be better, but at least I'll have a backup in case I destroy it 🙂.
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