Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

jksmurf said:


Hi avr300,

Could you please tell me part no.s for the Gyrator? and Zener Diodes for this. Was about to make some Raygulators (for which there are a number of details for Caps and resistors, e.g. Eddie Wang's Site) and then I read the Acoustica spiel on these, and how they could be better with Two Zeners i.e. "Putting two zener diodes in parallel in place of R2".

Now, Eddie Wang's site http://eddie.dyec.com.tw/diy-products/vrm/vrm.htm lists

3V R1=100 ohm R2=140ohm
5V R1=100 ohm R2=300ohm
12V R1=100ohm R2=860ohm
15V R1=100ohm R2=1.1Kohm

I'm learning here, but I guess if it is just the R1/R2 RATIO that sets the Output Voltage, you could choose any pair that gives the correct ratio. So what did you choose? The only qualifier from Martin is to "make Z (the impedance) of C2 much smaller than R2 at twice your AC Mains frequency to suppress ripple better; 100uF will be more effective than 10uF."

If R2 is for a +5V reg or a -12V/+12V reg, what is the equivalent Zener for that application?

btw what is the "Gyrator". I didn't see that on Acoustica's Page for http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/3pin_reg_notes1.html???

k.

Hi k.

I did it like attached. I just made it from what I had on stock, so I really don't know the part numbers. My version is current limited by the transistor; a better choice could be BC139/BC140. But for this application, it's sufficient.

The gyrator (aka VBE or capacity multiplier) is heavily discussed here http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27289
 

Attachments

avr300 said:


Hi k.

I did it like attached. I just made it from what I had on stock, so I really don't know the part numbers. My version is current limited by the transistor; a better choice could be BC139/BC140. But for this application, it's sufficient.

The gyrator (aka VBE or capacity multiplier) is heavily discussed here http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27289

Thanks AVR300. I will need to digest this. "Hacker" aka "Carl" from those PFM forums is who I got my PFM Flea from 🙂

h,
 
martin clark said:
Jesper - you'll find what you're looking for soon at:

http://www.acoustica.org.uk/marantz_CD6000.pdf

(I'll leave it up for a couple of days)

Jk - sorry, all the flea boards are long gone. I'm about to order another batch though, and hope to be able to confirm availability date+ cost in the next couple of weeks. No more kits though, I'm afraid.

Got it. Thanks Martin.

It's great to hear that the Flea soon flies again. One can always use 1 or 2 more especially if One is going to mod a 6000. 😀

Hmmm, there seems to be different opinions about the 6000 "out there". Even in this threat. 😕

(And it's a standard 6000 I have "on my hand").
 
martin clark said:
Jesper - you'll find what you're looking for soon at:

http://www.acoustica.org.uk/marantz_CD6000.pdf

(I'll leave it up for a couple of days)

Jk - sorry, all the flea boards are long gone. I'm about to order another batch though, and hope to be able to confirm availability date+ cost in the next couple of weeks. No more kits though, I'm afraid.


Hi Martin, any news of mine, the very last one?
I'm also longing for my Cable Talk Ref3 kit... hope it will come soon!
Thanks
 
ecap polarity

Hi me again. First thanks for all the help previously.
Just want to check. -'ve on the e cap goes to ground on the DAC mods, is this the same also on the decoder section?
(Unsure whether both are +5v feed)
Also about to put £16 audiocom super reg in, is this best for DAC or decoder or can I power both from the one reg?
Also seen conflicting advice on where to connect - any suggestions please Brent, Ray etc.... you are the men!!

Thanks in advance
Jim
 
What I did on my holidays!

Happy new year to you all🙂

I replaced the filter components on my 67 with silver mica caps and 0.1% resistors.

Not the greatest value for money but a noticable improvement.

Off topic, Santa brought me a Charlize T-amp. Stunning value for 100USD.😀

Pete
 
Re: ecap polarity

jimh0612 said:
Hi me again. First thanks for all the help previously.
Just want to check. -'ve on the e cap goes to ground on the DAC mods, is this the same also on the decoder section?
(Unsure whether both are +5v feed)
Also about to put £16 audiocom super reg in, is this best for DAC or decoder or can I power both from the one reg?
Also seen conflicting advice on where to connect - any suggestions please Brent, Ray etc.... you are the men!!

Thanks in advance
Jim

Hi Jim,

The minus or short lead of the e-caps goes to ground indeed. If you are having trouble finding out what ground is, just look at the capacitor symbol that's printed on the PCB. If i'm not mistaken there's a '+' mark for, well, the plus, and a fat dot that indicates the minus. As for the superreg, the best solution is to give both IC's their own regulator(s), but you can start with the digital supply of the DAC chip. I think that will have the most impact. But I haven't put many separate regs in myself yet, so maybe someone else has first hand experience with the best place for this one.

Regards,

Ray
 
avr300 said:


Hi k.

I did it like attached. I just made it from what I had on stock, so I really don't know the part numbers. My version is current limited by the transistor; a better choice could be BC139/BC140. But for this application, it's sufficient.

The gyrator (aka VBE or capacity multiplier) is heavily discussed here http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27289

Hi AVR300,

Well I've had a little read of the PFM thread and am just lost, so I'm going to keep it simple. Going back to the Martin Clark recommendations to use Zeners "Better still, use TWO zeners in parallel" for the LM317/LM337 based Vregs. I have a couple of Q's if that's OK?

1. On your Circuit Diag above for the Super-Raygs you have Diodes? D2, D3, D4 and D5. These are in parallel, so I am guessing these are the Zener Diodes? But what power should they be?http://www.ee.latrobe.edu.au/internal/workshop/datasheet.html

ZENER DIODE 1W 10V 1N4728-4752 1N4740
ZENER DIODE 5W 10V 1N5333-5388 1N5347
ZENER DIODE 0.5W 10V 1N746-759 1N758/961

2. The BD139/BD140 you mention are Transistors? But Martin Clarks site does not mention these at all, nor Eddie Wangs, nor does Rays original diagram show them??? What do they do (not that I understand it!)

TRANSISTORS 1.5A, 80V, 10W, NPN BD139 BD139
TRANSISTORS 1.5A, 80V, 10W, PNP BD140 BD140

3. For D1 and D6 you used 1N4148 which are shown as "fast diodes" in the Datasheet. Is this the reason these were used? The LM317 standard circuit diag eg. on Martin's site shows 1N4002?

Thanks!

k.
p.s. I got hold of a 240V CD67SE Trafo!! Yippee! So if anyone (US/Japan) is looking to buy a 110V CD67SE Trafo, I've got one 🙂
 
Brent

Thanks for that. Yes, they are the res caps, but mine are the original Elna For Audio, not the bazookas you fitted!! Where DID you get them - I can't find them anywhere?

Ray

Thanks also. PCB is marked where electrolytics were fitted as standard, that bit's OK, it's where small ceramics are being replaced that threw me.
Thought DAC would be the place for the reg, but should I feed digital or analogue first? I read somewhere about feeding both with separate regs, and assume that if I try to feed both from the same reg I'll introduce some sort of interference between the two planes, and I think I'm supposed to keep them as separate as possible for best results?