On a slightly related note, way back near the beginning of this thread there was some talk of tweaking the steps of the display dimmer so that the lowest setting turned it fully off.
Did anything ever come of this?
Did anything ever come of this?
Marcus,
Please replace the D852 diode with a wire in this way the display will work on 18 volt instead of 24,8 volt.
Diode D853 has to be a zener 4,7 Volt!
Greetz
Peter
Please replace the D852 diode with a wire in this way the display will work on 18 volt instead of 24,8 volt.
Diode D853 has to be a zener 4,7 Volt!
Greetz
Peter
is D852 and D853 of the same value??
I mixed the 2 diode that were removed and they looked similar to me, i do not have any tester to test the value.
I mixed the 2 diode that were removed and they looked similar to me, i do not have any tester to test the value.
no no its ok ..
I figure out from the past picture and found out which is the 4.7 volt one.
its written on it verically and i am praying hard that i am right...
I figure out from the past picture and found out which is the 4.7 volt one.
its written on it verically and i am praying hard that i am right...
Running with the 'normal' diode will raise the voltage by 0.6v over the 18v reg. So the display will be dimmer. Not a bad thing
Brent
Brent
ok both are back on board hopefully i didn't spoil them when i remove them earlier on.
Pray that it wil power on without any problem.. what will happened if something is done wrongly...?
Pray that it wil power on without any problem.. what will happened if something is done wrongly...?
Marcus,
From your picture I see a couple things:
1. You didn't jumper the resistors powering the opamps. Its good to do, perhaps after listening with the HDAM removed so you can hear each difference.
2. I don't see a wire to carry the signal around the HDAM. I hope it is on the underside.
From your picture I see a couple things:
1. You didn't jumper the resistors powering the opamps. Its good to do, perhaps after listening with the HDAM removed so you can hear each difference.
2. I don't see a wire to carry the signal around the HDAM. I hope it is on the underside.
One other thing...
Contrary to common practice (except in McCormack DNA - Distributed Node Architecture amps), the bigger, better caps should be near the load devices and smaller one after the regulator. This is more expensive than the common practice but has advantages.
First, there is less local stiffening of the power rail near the regulator, so it sees more accurately what the voltage is near the load(s). Second, the loads see lower resistance from having a big cap closer. This is 10x more important if you have those resistors in place or use an inductor!
The big cap before the regulator is still a good thing.
Contrary to common practice (except in McCormack DNA - Distributed Node Architecture amps), the bigger, better caps should be near the load devices and smaller one after the regulator. This is more expensive than the common practice but has advantages.
First, there is less local stiffening of the power rail near the regulator, so it sees more accurately what the voltage is near the load(s). Second, the loads see lower resistance from having a big cap closer. This is 10x more important if you have those resistors in place or use an inductor!
The big cap before the regulator is still a good thing.
Thanks, Mark. Very interesting to those of us with only a basic understanding of best practices.
Simon
Simon
markk02474 said:
Yes finally everything works, i bypass the HDAM the same way ray did in his picture. The picture was taken before i put in the wire. I guess I will listen to it for a while before i put in the jumper for the power resistors, besides i am still waiting for my opamps to arrive. Will be going to purchase a few more ecaps for the opamp area.
Many thanks to all the bros here... so satisfied that i am able to start off successfully.
jksmurf said:
k. is this the one you recall ?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=912131#post912131
aka the Christmas tree.
Nice to see this thread buzzing with activity...
Lot's of players being modded right now 😀.
No, it's not me with the three Flea's, I think it's AVR. EDIT: yes, indeed... Connecting the Flea to the player is easy: just take out the crystal and the two small ceramic caps (XD01, CD02/03) and connect The Flea's output to the empty holes where CD03 used to be. The ground of The Flea should be connected to the groundplane of the player's PCB.
The deluxe version: you can also take out RD02 and wire jumper U196 and use that hole, it's closer to the DAC chip, and use the ground connection of CD05. For CD57/67 types it's the same, only the wire jumper is U209.
No, it's not a safety device. It clamps voltage spikes caused by inductive loads or dimmers, or switching devices on or off.
Thank you, I hope so
...
Regards,
Ray
Lot's of players being modded right now 😀.
jksmurf said:
No, it's not me with the three Flea's, I think it's AVR. EDIT: yes, indeed... Connecting the Flea to the player is easy: just take out the crystal and the two small ceramic caps (XD01, CD02/03) and connect The Flea's output to the empty holes where CD03 used to be. The ground of The Flea should be connected to the groundplane of the player's PCB.
The deluxe version: you can also take out RD02 and wire jumper U196 and use that hole, it's closer to the DAC chip, and use the ground connection of CD05. For CD57/67 types it's the same, only the wire jumper is U209.
marcusdeming said:
No, it's not a safety device. It clamps voltage spikes caused by inductive loads or dimmers, or switching devices on or off.
SimontY said:
Thank you, I hope so
...Regards,
Ray
LOL, Yep, The Glaedilig Jul version. (Min mor kommer fra Esbjerg). Sooo.. may I ask..where did you put the OTHER two fleas (the non clock versions)?avr300 said:
6h5c said:
Excellent Thanks Ray! Getting excited! Any comments on that picture up there in my post, Vregs near the op-amps?
k.
Health and safety anyone LOL
Well im going to test these over christmas.
I have expensive high current leads and crappy resistive fuses, so they are going. They will be treated with deoxit D5 for good measure.
Brent
Well im going to test these over christmas.
I have expensive high current leads and crappy resistive fuses, so they are going. They will be treated with deoxit D5 for good measure.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Brent
Hi Rowe,
the plug top fuse is to prevent the cable catching fire in the event of a fault.
Do you have a suitable fuse upstream of the modified plug top to give similar protection?
Can you guarantee that at some future date that modified plug top does not get inserted into a standard mains socket outlet?
Don't be silly, the rules are there to save us from ourselves.
In closing, go and ask your house and contents insurance provider for an opinion, Oh, might as well ask the Fire Dept.
the plug top fuse is to prevent the cable catching fire in the event of a fault.
Do you have a suitable fuse upstream of the modified plug top to give similar protection?
Can you guarantee that at some future date that modified plug top does not get inserted into a standard mains socket outlet?
Don't be silly, the rules are there to save us from ourselves.
In closing, go and ask your house and contents insurance provider for an opinion, Oh, might as well ask the Fire Dept.
I believe the UK is one of very few countries to fit plug fuses!!
The fuse is there for incase the cable is cut and I don't know about you but I dont use shears or sharp impliments behind my hifi equipment.
Also my mains cables are rated @ 32amp and im sure the small tracks on the pcb will go a long time before even a 13amp fuse (forgetting a 500mA fuse in equipment).
All the equipment is fitted with either 500mA 1.6A or 2amp fuses.
The cable its self wont go faulty and if any equipment does it will take the internal fuse out and then i'll repair it.
Im not a noob who does not understand electricity or electronics + if anyone touches my mains leads i'll break some fingers!!!
Brent
The fuse is there for incase the cable is cut and I don't know about you but I dont use shears or sharp impliments behind my hifi equipment.
Also my mains cables are rated @ 32amp and im sure the small tracks on the pcb will go a long time before even a 13amp fuse (forgetting a 500mA fuse in equipment).
All the equipment is fitted with either 500mA 1.6A or 2amp fuses.
The cable its self wont go faulty and if any equipment does it will take the internal fuse out and then i'll repair it.
Im not a noob who does not understand electricity or electronics + if anyone touches my mains leads i'll break some fingers!!!
Brent
i know a mate who uses pure solid
siver in stead of fuses he rekons it sounds better. but i dout it would be huge improvment
siver in stead of fuses he rekons it sounds better. but i dout it would be huge improvment