adfinni said:Simon, i think im gonna take brent on at his mechanism fixing game. I might submerge the whole player in oil, ,then it will have all the lubrication it ever needs 😉
Allan, I cerainly won't be throwing it out. Spares will be easily had from it, especially replacements like the chips (Q105/106 etc, dac, servo, etc etc) and as you said soldering practise will be great.
Fixing it will be hard though
edit. Hey brent. Cheers for that advice, il remove all of the grease. Even though on my current player there doesn't seem to be much at all. Lucky me 🙂
If you submerge your mech you will have to buy oil that has good optical properties 😀
Also a it needs to be very thin oil so the disc has minimum drag on it. LOL
Brent
rowemeister said:FTAO RAY
Opamp decoupling, whats the best way to do this?
I was thinking of the 10uF BG cap across +/- pin 4 and 8 and also the smt 220nF.
And then pin 4 to gnd via BG NX 470nF bipolar and the same on pin 8.
I will have to run wire from star earth to these caps.
They have arrived and will be fitted tomorrow
Brent
Ray
I meant to say..
10uF BG from + and - to gnd and the BG NX (bi polar) 470nF across +/- rails. I also have the very large 220nF PPS.
Brent
adfinni said:................ I cerainly won't be throwing it out.......... Fixing it will be hard though ...........
You could always put it on Ebay.....
One careful owner from new.
Modi-fried and upgraded
from non smoking household
Needs care and attention
should get £0.99 for it !
Andy
poynton said:
You could always put it on Ebay.....
One careful owner from new.
Modi-fried and upgraded
from non smoking household
Needs care and attention
should get £0.99 for it !
Andy
O look a joker in the house 😀
But i think il get more takers if i auction it as
One careful LADY owner from new
Modi-fried and upgraded with vuoper racing stripes
In need of a jump start
I have two Rubycon 200v680uF electrolyts laying around.
Are they suitable to upgrade my cd67se in some place?
Are they suitable to upgrade my cd67se in some place?
gy21 said:I have two Rubycon 200v680uF electrolyts laying around.
Are they suitable to upgrade my cd67se in some place?
200V 😱 😱 😱
I guess you mean 20V/680uF caps. You can use them in the player.
adfinni said:
200V 😱 😱 😱
I guess you mean 20V/680uF caps. You can use them in the player.
No really, it says 200v680uF.
Any suggestions where to put them?
6h5c said:
That's very well possible, I found this opamp to be quite upfront, with lots of treble, in-your-face so to speak. You may try some decoupling directly at the PSU pins (4 & 8). Or AD8620 🙂
Ray.
I decoupled the opamps now with 220nF from pin 4 to 8. When I listened to it i felt the sound become a bit more natural.
Also removed C659 and C660, what do these do by the way?
gy21 said:
I decoupled the opamps now with 220nF from pin 4 to 8. When I listened to it i felt the sound become a bit more natural.
Also removed C659 and C660, what do these do by the way?
Off the top of my head they are feed caps to the head phone amp from the opamp output
One less thing to upset things
Brent
The guy i bought the cd63 off from ebay has sent me a paypal refund 😕 😕 😕
EDIT. Just got a message back saying he switched it on put a disk in then it died:
Just got another msg:
Do you guys reckon it's worth me paying for the postage, then getting the unit for free to fix, or does it sound terminal?
thanks
adam
EDIT. Just got a message back saying he switched it on put a disk in then it died:
I'm so sorry, you'll never guess what just happend...
After emailing you this afternoon regarding the players working
condition I wanted to test it out to see if it was skipping. So I
fitted a plug, plugged it in, and it came on. I ejected the cd tray
put in a disc and it just died!!! I can't believe it!! I tried replacing
the fuse and even the plug but with no joy... I has worked
perfectly up until now.
Just got another msg:
However, when pressing the on/off button, light flickers out of the optical port still strangely
Do you guys reckon it's worth me paying for the postage, then getting the unit for free to fix, or does it sound terminal?
thanks
adam
Hi guys!
Wonder where to get the marantz cd67 service manual. I have the cd63 manual already. Appreciate a pointers. Thanks!
Cheers!
Wonder where to get the marantz cd67 service manual. I have the cd63 manual already. Appreciate a pointers. Thanks!
Cheers!
flyboi said:Hi guys!
Wonder where to get the marantz cd67 service manual. I have the cd63 manual already. Appreciate a pointers. Thanks!
Cheers!
Have a look on page 1 of this thread. THe 67ose .pdf is right there 😀
Hi All,
More help needed.
I've been having trouble too, and not much time to fix it.
It all happened when I fitted the bipolar output stage that it went wrong (I do not suspect the bipolar stage).
Having removed it, still not working.
Anyway, I did have it so that it span like crazy as well. This appears to be a dry joint from one of 5v regs to XVDD on the DAC, which I assume is the circuit that then buffers/repeats the clock on to the decoder and the rest of the player.
Anyway, fixed that, now have the situation where it makes all the right (mechanical) noises when you put a disc in, but doesn't spin.
Service mode states Err 10, which apparently means radial.
Does anyone know what that can mean?
I know its one of the servo signals, and interestingly its on the one servo driver that hasn't been modded yet. But I don't know what it does.
I suspected the dodgy ribbon cable, it was looking a bit worn out, so I retinned the ends, to no avail (but thankfuly didn't make anything worse).
Alas, I'm away on business next week, so can discuss this, but can't try anything. Ho hum.
Itching to fix this, my unmodded CD41 really sounds bad.
Seriously thinking of getting another off of Ebay, if only for spare parts. My player has been dismantled a lot. I don't think it always likes it.
Cheers,
Phil
More help needed.
I've been having trouble too, and not much time to fix it.
It all happened when I fitted the bipolar output stage that it went wrong (I do not suspect the bipolar stage).
Having removed it, still not working.
Anyway, I did have it so that it span like crazy as well. This appears to be a dry joint from one of 5v regs to XVDD on the DAC, which I assume is the circuit that then buffers/repeats the clock on to the decoder and the rest of the player.
Anyway, fixed that, now have the situation where it makes all the right (mechanical) noises when you put a disc in, but doesn't spin.
Service mode states Err 10, which apparently means radial.
Does anyone know what that can mean?
I know its one of the servo signals, and interestingly its on the one servo driver that hasn't been modded yet. But I don't know what it does.
I suspected the dodgy ribbon cable, it was looking a bit worn out, so I retinned the ends, to no avail (but thankfuly didn't make anything worse).
Alas, I'm away on business next week, so can discuss this, but can't try anything. Ho hum.
Itching to fix this, my unmodded CD41 really sounds bad.
Seriously thinking of getting another off of Ebay, if only for spare parts. My player has been dismantled a lot. I don't think it always likes it.

Cheers,
Phil
adfinni said:Have a look on page 1 of this thread. THe 67ose .pdf is right there 😀
(bugger! IE crashed and I lost my reply GRRR! Anyway, again...)
Ad Mate, that's not the service manual you see but a list of Raymondo's mods to his CD67, which is recommended reading for anyone starting work on their player. Also you must read Rowe's long list.
As far as I can remember there's been no CD67 manual posted here, but it's mostly the same as the CD63. The muting circuit is different though I believe.
Simon
adfinni said:![]()
![]()
My bad.
I really shold actually think before posting 🙄
lol
It seems there are now a few of us with CD63 problems! I put my display-less 63 back together last night to play tunes for a mate and a couple of times it did the cutting out thing again. Very frustrating.


Simon
adfinni said:
Have a look on page 1 of this thread. THe 67ose .pdf is right there 😀
Hi adfinni!
Thanks for the reply! The 67ose .pdf is a mod list not a service manual for the cd67. Any other pointers guys? I might have missed the page. Thanks!
Cheers!
SimontY said:
lol
It seems there are now a few of us with CD63 problems! I put my display-less 63 back together last night to play tunes for a mate and a couple of times it did the cutting out thing again. Very frustrating.
To anyone thinking about embarking on a modding plan, please please take it very slowly and handle the pcb with kidgloves. It is extremely fragile and the player can stop working for no apparent reason.
Simon
Now now Simon you are making the Marantz pcbs sound cheap and crap!!!
Any pcb will develop problems if your are not entirely kind to it

I have had no problems other than the pesky ribbon connector which unfortunatly is not designed to be pluged and unpluged hundreds of times LOL
Thing is though you learn more from your mistakes which is a good thing 😉
Brent
Hey
I have been measuring voltages on my dead 63 today and have found out that the lines supplied by the glass resistors FH11/12 are dead. I can't get any voltage readings from these resistors or anything else after them.
My question is, when whatever blew around QM01, will it kill the voltages supplied after the component that blew, and still leave a circuit so that voltages can be read before the blown component.
I'm just wondering if it would be obvious that those glass resistors had gone, and should i get another pair? Which ones do you recommend i get if i do need them, and can i get them from maplins?
I ask, as im not sure if they are quick or slow blow, and what exact ratings i need other than what is listed in teh service manual (1.6A, T630ma?)
ta
I have been measuring voltages on my dead 63 today and have found out that the lines supplied by the glass resistors FH11/12 are dead. I can't get any voltage readings from these resistors or anything else after them.
My question is, when whatever blew around QM01, will it kill the voltages supplied after the component that blew, and still leave a circuit so that voltages can be read before the blown component.
I'm just wondering if it would be obvious that those glass resistors had gone, and should i get another pair? Which ones do you recommend i get if i do need them, and can i get them from maplins?
I ask, as im not sure if they are quick or slow blow, and what exact ratings i need other than what is listed in teh service manual (1.6A, T630ma?)
ta
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