The headphone output is poor because a) headphones let you hear how naff the standard player is and b) the sound goes through an extra op-amp - an extra pants one. You can change the headphone op-amp and it will help matters enormously. This op-amp is, from memory, decoupled by tiny cheap caps, which should also be upgraded. Lastly, a typical op-amp isn't really designed to drive headphones. You need a special buffer or headphone amp to to get the best results. It can certainly be improved a lot and for not much money, but you will need the soldering iron. Mechanical mods will only go so far and don't tackle the worst problems in this and so many other players.
Hi 7.62!
This is a nice little headphone circuit that I built for someone once. It's easy, cheap and already sounds a lot better than the original circuit if you use a decent opamp (AD8620, LME49720). It's from the Marantz SA8400. The extra output stage after the opamp makes sure the headphones are driven with enough current. You can ignore the four muting transistors at the input and output. The circuit in the center is the interesting part.
The only fortunate thing in your player is that the headphone signal doesn't run through the HDAM section. But you'll have to upgrade basically everything else to lift the player towards audio-nirvana 😀.
Ray
This is a nice little headphone circuit that I built for someone once. It's easy, cheap and already sounds a lot better than the original circuit if you use a decent opamp (AD8620, LME49720). It's from the Marantz SA8400. The extra output stage after the opamp makes sure the headphones are driven with enough current. You can ignore the four muting transistors at the input and output. The circuit in the center is the interesting part.
The only fortunate thing in your player is that the headphone signal doesn't run through the HDAM section. But you'll have to upgrade basically everything else to lift the player towards audio-nirvana 😀.
Ray
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The trouble with using a headphone amp with tone controls is that it may change the sound, but it will not improve it. I think you would be better getting a good headphone amp without tone controls and doing the simple mods suggested. This has got to be a better way to go because if you decide to get an amp in the future the mods will still be relevant. Of course there are lots more things that can be done, but the only soldering involved here is two links and the op-amps, the rest is down to snipping bits out if you don't want to de-solder them. Like Simon said, the internal headphone amp is rubish.
Which links are you referring to here, and which bits are we snipping out?
If it was me, I'd swap a couple of crucial caps. The smoothers on the +/- 10v rails for something much larger like 10,000uF Panasonic TSUP's this will smooth out the sound. These are for the servo and +5v rails. I'd also swap the main smoothers for the +/-12v rails for something similar as these are the rails that power the opamps on the output stage and headphones amp. The caps wont fit in the original positions, but you can connect with short wires and mount out of the way. As Simon said, replace the local decoupling caps for all opamps for something like elan SilmicII (based on you description of the sound you are looking smooth out rather than sharpen) and then swap all 3 opamps (2 in the output stage and one for the phones) for something like LM4562's. Also consider replacing the decoupling caps on the DAC with Rubycon ZLG while you have the chassis out!
Total cost of parts less than £60 but will give good value for money gains.
All of the above are relevant (except the heaphones opamp and its local decoupling caps which should cost less than £10 to upgrade) if you opt for an external headphones amp. As Barry said, should you go down this route, with the level of mods above and the clock you have, you should bypass the "bloaty" HDAM's as they will hold the player back when using the main output to drive an external phones amp.
Rays amp will be good if you can build it and there are some fairly cheap valve options on eBay which may suit you based on how you find the std sound.
I was in a similar position to you with respect to how I was finding the stock sound. I decided to jump ship for the TDA1541a based players and I've not looked back. I do still however very much rate the 63 even if its not totally to my taste.
The links are to by-pass the HDAM (R619/620) The snipping refers to the supply/in/out reistors. The total cost is around £5-10 for a couple of half decent op-amps. LM4562 or whatever. I agree there is a lot more that can be done, but I was trying to encourage the solder shy upgrader!
There is another way without soldering. A DAC/headphone amp. (I expect a decent one will cost a bit though)
There is another way without soldering. A DAC/headphone amp. (I expect a decent one will cost a bit though)
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Has anyone made a remote control for the CD63/CD53? I have a CD53 without remote control. I would like to make one, but I know nothing about remote controls. Is there a schematic somewhere out there? (Google didn't bring anything up)
Or any other philips marantz meridian etc from the same era and earlier should pretty much cover it.
Did the hdam bypass i used the dc caps to decouple not much bass so ive changed the caps again for 16v 470uf black gates bit better but not much anyway to lift the bass.
cheers alan. 🙄
cheers alan. 🙄
You need a few hundred hours burn in on caps (especially BG). It is the bass that takes a while to fatten and smooth out.
Brent
Brent
Guess that's the best solution, though I'd like making one.
I've already tried a couple stereo system remotes though. Doesn't work...
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Won't you use the IR thats already fitted to the 63?
The Marantz uses the standard Philips RC5 ir code - http://users.telenet.be/davshomepage/rc5.htm
Brent
The Marantz uses the standard Philips RC5 ir code - http://users.telenet.be/davshomepage/rc5.htm
Brent
Thanks brent,
Brought some lm 4562s from china thought they might be copies so i got some genuine ones from the states may need some settle/burn in time so run it and see.
thanks alan 😉
I do bang on about this a lot but C813 needs swapping for a massive uF cap (10000uF min) we use 22000uF + short the fuses out. Bass is improved along with the whole sound
Brent
Brent
I've found that 10V smoothing cap to be SUPER-IMPORTANT, too. The gains, particularly to bass, on the CD63 are even bigger when regulating the servo driver chips. The bass will tend to be a bit indistinct until this is done - and INCREDIBLE when done. Just a shame this mod can be quite involved as it sometimes seems to warrant an extra power supply (if the standard rails can't deliver the headroom needed for regulation - certainly the case on one std CD63 I modified).
Brent has finished what will probably be the last upgrade to my 67' (famous last words) I am itching to get it and hear what he has done! Probably be two weeks before I can report. The very notion of an end fills me with grief and forboding...I'm weird that way.
I'll get over it but the itch is going to be hard to scratch!
I'll get over it but the itch is going to be hard to scratch!
I also feel the need to point out again that the HDAM's do not feature in the headphone circuit of the player. This has been pointed out in several posts now so I've no idea why it is being repeatedly suggested to make changes in this area..........ihmo, there are loads of mods that should be done before hdam bypass. Opamps and caps (local decouple and smoothers) are a must.
This is the essence of my recent post along with Simon and Brents.
This is the essence of my recent post along with Simon and Brents.