Aggressive indeed, must be new to this thread. But I think it's his nature, I saw some other posts that were not too friendly either...
Ray
!!!!
He's way over his head and doesn't even know it....
Hey mister you wandered into the wrong room!
Glad to see you guys back. I was getting worried the opus had suddenly come to an end.
He's way over his head and doesn't even know it....
Hey mister you wandered into the wrong room!
Glad to see you guys back. I was getting worried the opus had suddenly come to an end.
As far I can tell I did use a decent language.
Sure, some might like the posts to be sugarcoated, but hey... live is not painted in pink.
The opinion that those mutting transitors are not necessary and are put there there by marantz just to make random "clicks" qualifyes as... what's the word for opposite to noob? Guru?
You've got to admit this is a pretty strange question on page 1437. Marantz did some rather strange and downright silly things; like the infamous HDMA modules that actually do nothing except downgrade the sound and hide their shame underneath shiney covers. At the time they were decent players. The point of this thread is to build upon and improve their strengths. It just happened this way. It could as well have been Sony or another maker. The muting circuit is yet another veil to the music and the almost inaudible clicks are worth it. Hey I'm out of my depth...somebody else want to step in here? As for noobs and gurus...that's an easy one. If you read the way this has developed over time, you might get that there are some very smart guys here who know their stuff and have been doing this for a good amount of time. Personally I have sunk a fair amunt of cash into my machine and it's not over. Are the results worth it? You bet they are. This is not idle, self-congradulatory stuff going on here but serious hands-on experience and experimenation. You can be damn sure NOONE at Marantz ever took the time and trouble our "founders" here (and their erstwhile followers) have put into this.
Well, not bad words, just misspelled words like "mutting" instead of "muting", and an incorrect word like "live" instead of "life".
This thread is a nice club about the players, no need to shout your way in.
Thank you all very much for responding,...so far...
Please. don't argue any longer,...I got some answers! I'm happy!!!
NOTE: the output caps of my VR-70E(tube amp) are removed.
Could this cause the "clicking" problem?
Can I remove the muting transistors in the CD63?
Can I also remove the output caps in the CD63?
And I found a CD63 service manual,...
Those "muting transistors", C655~C658 maybe???
Thanks in advance,....
PBZzz
Please. don't argue any longer,...I got some answers! I'm happy!!!
NOTE: the output caps of my VR-70E(tube amp) are removed.
Could this cause the "clicking" problem?
Can I remove the muting transistors in the CD63?
Can I also remove the output caps in the CD63?
And I found a CD63 service manual,...
Those "muting transistors", C655~C658 maybe???
Thanks in advance,....
PBZzz
As an aside: Other than chaps being chaps and liking to take things apart and tinker (with engines and rockets and trains and clocks etc.!)
and exchange ideas, there's a bit more to the story (if you will permit a noob from adding his 2 cents)
This whole thread is a great example of thinking outside the box. Clearly then, as now, Marantz designers were under the classic corperate constraints: to sell a product, get it to market, beat the competition and do it now. Why make it as good as possible? There's a long history in every branch of manufacturing consumer goods of churning out médiocre products, year after year, rebadging, changing the shape, the dashboard, a few new bells and whistles and Bob's your uncle. It's the way the game is played. Audio is no different. This whole forum is about using talent and skills to go where the corperate mind can't or wouldn't; scratching the itch that says it could have been done better so let's try.
and exchange ideas, there's a bit more to the story (if you will permit a noob from adding his 2 cents)
This whole thread is a great example of thinking outside the box. Clearly then, as now, Marantz designers were under the classic corperate constraints: to sell a product, get it to market, beat the competition and do it now. Why make it as good as possible? There's a long history in every branch of manufacturing consumer goods of churning out médiocre products, year after year, rebadging, changing the shape, the dashboard, a few new bells and whistles and Bob's your uncle. It's the way the game is played. Audio is no different. This whole forum is about using talent and skills to go where the corperate mind can't or wouldn't; scratching the itch that says it could have been done better so let's try.
Yes you can remove the transistors, C655 -C658 are the audio output caps. Take them out and run a Coaxial polypropelene capacitor (4.7uF works) from U214 to the Left channel of the RCA socket and one from U210 to the right hand channel of the socket (don't forget to lift the links out). QN07 05 06 08 are the muting transistors. Stick a nicer pair of opamps in there too.
Brent
the easiest way to bypass the output muting transitors is to take the output directly from the HDAM output. You can do this by removing the 4 dc blocking caps (elna silmic I think) between the hdams and the output and connecting the phono out directly to board here. I did it in one of my machine by removing the phono sockets from the pcb and mounting it to the case upside down. You can then wire from the pins (now facing up!) to the point on the board that you removed the caps.
inything prefixed "C" will be a capacitor or cap
Ian you still need to remove the transistors as they are still in circuit after the capacitors. If they are creating a popping noise then that will still be audiable
Brent
Brent
Ah ok! I thought if the audio path was moved not to go via the transistors, it would resolve the popping!
THANK YOU ALL!!!
Problem solved!!!!
I'm listening to the result now!
MY FIRST MOD!!!! YESS!!!!
I'm not experienced in soldering, let alone desoldering,...so, I decided to just bend the transistors until their legs break,...that's what I call hardcore low-tech modding,...but it works!!!!
NO MORE CLICKS/TICKS!!!!!!!
Thanks again to help me on my way,....
Problem solved!!!!
I'm listening to the result now!
MY FIRST MOD!!!! YESS!!!!
I'm not experienced in soldering, let alone desoldering,...so, I decided to just bend the transistors until their legs break,...that's what I call hardcore low-tech modding,...but it works!!!!
NO MORE CLICKS/TICKS!!!!!!!
Thanks again to help me on my way,....
You where very lucky this time.
Do not attempt that again as bending the legs might loosen the tracks under the board.
It is called "pad lifting" and it is a very high tech modding that can only be acomplished by the most daring 🙂
Beware or you will weep !!!
Do not attempt that again as bending the legs might loosen the tracks under the board.
It is called "pad lifting" and it is a very high tech modding that can only be acomplished by the most daring 🙂
Beware or you will weep !!!
Thank you very much for warning me,...I won't do that again!!!
Next time I wil ask an expert.
PBZzz
YAY!!!! just landed a tatty 63KI on ebay for £60!
Well £68 delivered! The cover's seen better days (but I got a spare!) and one on the buttons ins missing ( but I got a spare!) In fact, if the front panel is tatty, I'll just swap the badge!!! lol 🙂 If all esle fails, its worth more than that faulty anyway!
Well £68 delivered! The cover's seen better days (but I got a spare!) and one on the buttons ins missing ( but I got a spare!) In fact, if the front panel is tatty, I'll just swap the badge!!! lol 🙂 If all esle fails, its worth more than that faulty anyway!