..or the morning after the night before...............
I have a pair of transformers (mike matching ) that I was intending to try out on my Cd63...........never got round to it.................
My only concern was that there would be a small imbalance between the + and - outputs from the dac which might saturate the core.
I may get round to it when I'm home next week. Things aren't the same now I have to fit work in between my hobby-time.
Andy
I have a pair of transformers (mike matching ) that I was intending to try out on my Cd63...........never got round to it.................
My only concern was that there would be a small imbalance between the + and - outputs from the dac which might saturate the core.
I may get round to it when I'm home next week. Things aren't the same now I have to fit work in between my hobby-time.
Andy
Burson Audio discrete Dual opamp V2
Hello together
My first CD63SE mod’s are finished. I have ordert and inserted the upgrade Kit from Hoerwege (German tuner) incl. his Masterclock. I am very happy with this mods. But it continues now.
I have in my CD63 soldered a IC Socket to experiment with different OPA’s,….
I will test the Burson Audio discrete Dual opamp V2 (matched pair) maybe from audioupgrades.co.uk (Brent).
Bursons are sold/delivered with 8 pieces loosely wires to end. Without 8-pin DIP to put it into the Socket. Is that correct??
But I will not solder out my sockets. I would like to experiment further.
Can I sold the Bursons with a soldered on 8-pin DIP ?? From audioupgrades.co.uk or somebody?
Baraccuda
Hello together
My first CD63SE mod’s are finished. I have ordert and inserted the upgrade Kit from Hoerwege (German tuner) incl. his Masterclock. I am very happy with this mods. But it continues now.
I have in my CD63 soldered a IC Socket to experiment with different OPA’s,….
I will test the Burson Audio discrete Dual opamp V2 (matched pair) maybe from audioupgrades.co.uk (Brent).
Bursons are sold/delivered with 8 pieces loosely wires to end. Without 8-pin DIP to put it into the Socket. Is that correct??
But I will not solder out my sockets. I would like to experiment further.
Can I sold the Bursons with a soldered on 8-pin DIP ?? From audioupgrades.co.uk or somebody?
Baraccuda
Re: Burson Audio discrete Dual opamp V2
Hello, you can do that no problem. I saw Brent do that to enable him to easily test them in different machines.
Cheers, Lee.
Baraccuda said:
Hello, you can do that no problem. I saw Brent do that to enable him to easily test them in different machines.
Cheers, Lee.
Oh guys,
when Martin shows up I soon get a headache...
more simple question, a 1.6VA 9V for a dedicated DAC's analog 5V is enough? It should be as already far over specs, but as I have a (too big...) 7.5VA... 😉
And as I have many of this 9V/1.6VA any good reason to fit one for digital 5V? There more power is used, maybe not enough...
It seems in such matter that overkill is better...
Matthieu
when Martin shows up I soon get a headache...
more simple question, a 1.6VA 9V for a dedicated DAC's analog 5V is enough? It should be as already far over specs, but as I have a (too big...) 7.5VA... 😉
And as I have many of this 9V/1.6VA any good reason to fit one for digital 5V? There more power is used, maybe not enough...
It seems in such matter that overkill is better...
Matthieu
Re: Burson Audio discrete Dual opamp V2
You can cut the legs short and solder these to a second socket so that you can plug the module in and out easily. Once you hear them you will love them. They do take weeks to fully settle in though.
Brent
Baraccuda said:
You can cut the legs short and solder these to a second socket so that you can plug the module in and out easily. Once you hear them you will love them. They do take weeks to fully settle in though.
Brent
Maybe I'll use the 7.5VA to feed at least 2 LT1086 adjusted to 5V in order to supply DAC analog and digitial will be better. It's just a step which may be good enough to be done as it's free.
there is also the clock 5V ref... and spare 1.6VA tx... any good and free sample link will be nice 😉
My questions (yes I'm a gluing noob here 😉 ) :
• Resistors vs red Led ? Any better for both or only one D//A? Just a "sound difference" wich may be fun to setup as "easily switchable" ?
• Ground, I think I should cut traces on pcb to keep ground only linked to this dedicated PSU, right?
• Any problem having only one cap and bridge rectifier for both LT1086? If fitted very close the the DAC, the DAC's cap are just right for the after regs bypass?
• In that last case, a new 5V reg for the clock ref a real need? (As I don't have any more reg right now... Still waiting for fixed LT1086 5V.. ).
Enough for now, have to supply for test my "not so clean ground plane veroboarded Flea"... and hope that Guido will send me my XOs before next year 😉
As a side note, bravo to Ray and his website, very nice with MM317 how-to, linked to datasheet of LM317 and LT1086 it's full of good infos!!
As a second side note, I've found that there is not truth about bypass caps... I've asked many of you, everyone has a different pov, if a solution was defo the best it would have been brought to light (omg, my english is maybe not so clear), and as there is no "solutions" but only troubles here!
there is also the clock 5V ref... and spare 1.6VA tx... any good and free sample link will be nice 😉
My questions (yes I'm a gluing noob here 😉 ) :
• Resistors vs red Led ? Any better for both or only one D//A? Just a "sound difference" wich may be fun to setup as "easily switchable" ?
• Ground, I think I should cut traces on pcb to keep ground only linked to this dedicated PSU, right?
• Any problem having only one cap and bridge rectifier for both LT1086? If fitted very close the the DAC, the DAC's cap are just right for the after regs bypass?
• In that last case, a new 5V reg for the clock ref a real need? (As I don't have any more reg right now... Still waiting for fixed LT1086 5V.. ).
Enough for now, have to supply for test my "not so clean ground plane veroboarded Flea"... and hope that Guido will send me my XOs before next year 😉
As a side note, bravo to Ray and his website, very nice with MM317 how-to, linked to datasheet of LM317 and LT1086 it's full of good infos!!
As a second side note, I've found that there is not truth about bypass caps... I've asked many of you, everyone has a different pov, if a solution was defo the best it would have been brought to light (omg, my english is maybe not so clear), and as there is no "solutions" but only troubles here!
Re: Re: Burson Audio discrete Dual opamp V2
thank you for the fast answer.
Question1:
You (audioupgrades.co.uk) do not sold Bursons finished soldered with a second socket?
I am planning to replacing the v regulators in my CD63SE with audiocom superregs.
Q801=78M12
Q802=79M12
Q811=7805
Question2 (Voltage correct?):
is 78M12= +12V
is 79M12= -12V
is 7805= +5V
Question3:
Must I change all three regulators or only the two 78M12/79M12 to hear a different?
Regards
Baraccuda
Hi Brent,rowemeister said:
thank you for the fast answer.
Question1:
You (audioupgrades.co.uk) do not sold Bursons finished soldered with a second socket?
I am planning to replacing the v regulators in my CD63SE with audiocom superregs.
Q801=78M12
Q802=79M12
Q811=7805
Question2 (Voltage correct?):
is 78M12= +12V
is 79M12= -12V
is 7805= +5V
Question3:
Must I change all three regulators or only the two 78M12/79M12 to hear a different?
Regards
Baraccuda
Each will provide a change but NO single regulator can make up for all of the noise shared between the MANY 5V circuits in the player. For this you need to change the PSU circuits by inserting additional 5V feeds in key areas - DAC, servo, decoder etc.
Simon
Simon
SimontY said:
How do I start from here. What is the recommended tranny size and type of reg.
ccschua said:
For the DAC's analogue 5V, something like a 7VA transformer should do the job. To be sure, you could Google for a datasheet of the IC you're supplying and check how much current it draws from each power pin. Check this against the transformer you're looking to buy and ensure there's at least double the available current so you have some headroom. Big transformers probably sound better but take more room inside and cost more money. More small txs are better than one or two big ones. Never mind what companies like Naim do, they all have it wrong 😉
As for regulators, anything's better than standard as you're introducing separation between the rails.
Better than a 7805 would be a lower noise 3 pin fixed reg (can't think of any examples). The next step up is to use an LM317 or other adjustable regulator. This is harder but will sound a tiny bit better. A good low-noise regulator such as Sercal S Power, Audiocom Super Regulater, Tent Labs shunt reg, Teddy Reg or ALW Super Reg will be MUCH better here.
Do this again for the DAC's digital 5V pin and it'll get a lot better again...
Simon
The former custom toroid project can be a source of inspiration.
Check here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=823056#post823056
Seems 7VA is overlkill here 😉 If I fit mine it's only because I've it and it's free.
You can have a look at LT1086, NCP1086, LM2940 and such in fixed 5V and adjustable.
If that may help for adjustable:
http://www.sonelec-musique.com/images/alim_regul_317_001.gif
More info:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=912482#post912482
Thet thread is so huge and search engine's filter so simple that it's hard to find things now...
Load of but unreachable great things.
Check here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=823056#post823056
Seems 7VA is overlkill here 😉 If I fit mine it's only because I've it and it's free.
You can have a look at LT1086, NCP1086, LM2940 and such in fixed 5V and adjustable.
If that may help for adjustable:
http://www.sonelec-musique.com/images/alim_regul_317_001.gif
More info:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=912482#post912482
Thet thread is so huge and search engine's filter so simple that it's hard to find things now...
Load of but unreachable great things.
Taking parts to supply:
a TX, located at main plug, then the bridge rectifier. I want to keep it simple and efficent. Cost is a concern so less caps is less money.
Now I can fit more or less close to IC's pins:
( first smoothing cap )
....
( LT1086 & it's 2 associated resistors and a 10µF Tantalum cap at adjust pin )
this last element being fitted right at the IC's capacitors.
The first cap can stay by the TX?
a TX, located at main plug, then the bridge rectifier. I want to keep it simple and efficent. Cost is a concern so less caps is less money.
Now I can fit more or less close to IC's pins:
( first smoothing cap )
....
( LT1086 & it's 2 associated resistors and a 10µF Tantalum cap at adjust pin )
this last element being fitted right at the IC's capacitors.
The first cap can stay by the TX?
Malefoda said:
Up for that, to fit a big cap beside the reg will make its fitting close to IC more difficult.
Anyway, I'm a real DIYer now, my first... smoke! Wired the secondary on the main... the small thing started to cook....
Now it's fixed, 4.93V read for Tent's XO 😉
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Finally got round to sacking off my old clocks and have fitted my new ones on Dac and servo.
Images on this page
Brent
Images on this page
Brent
About the Z series, black, compact, fast... yes I agree, my first one:
http://104samba.free.fr/104c31.html
ZS2 were few and best, ZS like mine nice, ZA were business 2 seats, ZL low class... just a thought on it as it was popular in UK also .)
http://104samba.free.fr/104c31.html
ZS2 were few and best, ZS like mine nice, ZA were business 2 seats, ZL low class... just a thought on it as it was popular in UK also .)
Malefoda said:
ZL lower class?? I think they are pretty good!
Of course the newer ZLH series is even better 😀
Thanks Matthieu. It's quite new and the page may need some tweaking, but I thought it useful to gather the info that can be found here and there. I'm planning to put the Super-Rayreg there too.
Regards,
Ray