Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Yes, looking back my wording, it does seem a bit like a ipod vs. cd hardware comparison, but was meant to be a software comparison.

There are some good lossless recorders out there, but I was wondering if you had a good vinyl recording and transferred that to the lossless audio format, would you retain the same quality as the original? would it be better than a CD master with all the compression?
 
delphiplasma said:
.. I was wondering if you had a good vinyl recording and transferred that to the lossless audio format, would you retain the same quality as the original? would it be better than a CD master with all the compression?

I think if you captured it at a high bit depth & sampling rate and played it back on a good sound card or network media player yes it could be better than a poorly mastered cd on any CD player.

Simon
 
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rowemeister said:


LOL there are still things to do. I need to change the inductors on the discrete output for the better shielded ones + crack on with the ezdac. I'm also thinking of changing the output caps to Mundorf Supreme silver/gold but they are not cheap. I'm also very busy upgrading the rest of the system.
Just a stupid question Brent..... When you want to upgrade/modify anything in your machine, do you dismantle everything... remove anything on top of the board so you can work on it ?

It looks like heavy work..:eek:

Ricardo
 
A bit OT, but...

.. I was wondering if you had a good vinyl recording and transferred that to the lossless audio format, would you retain the same quality as the original? would it be better than a CD master with all the compression?

I think if you captured it at a high bit depth & sampling rate and played it back on a good sound card or network media player yes it could be better than a poorly mastered cd on any CD player.

Actually I've heard this done within the 16bit CD standard, TT - > ADC-> DAC. The presentation still sounded like the top-end deck*, and yes, preferable in many ways to the CD issue. But I do believe it's not because vinyl actually has better resolution - just a different presentation.

Look at the overall chain for a start - the RIAA filter has +20db of bass boost (which encourages dynamic expansion, albeit undefined - that characteristic woolly warmness), a defined roll-off at the extreme bottom which is above that of CD's DC limit (helps-out amps and speakers by not loading them with extreme LF waffle). The other distinct RIAA characteristic is a treble rollof starting in the midrange and falling at -6dB/oct indefinitely. Afetr correcting for the treble pre-emphasis off disc, that continuing roll-off takes a huge bite out of ultrasonic unhappiness for many amplifier chains with poorly-deisgned input stages / no bandwidth limitation.

'Its not a level playing field' is what I'm suggesting...


* three very different cases: a fully-loaded LP12/Aro; Michel Orbe/Morch; and Townshend Rock3/ OriginLive silver. None of them slouches!
 
RCruz said:

Just a stupid question Brent..... When you want to upgrade/modify anything in your machine, do you dismantle everything... remove anything on top of the board so you can work on it ?

It looks like heavy work..:eek:

Ricardo

Not a stupid question at all. The regs etc soldered onto the pcb remain but to get the pcb out everything around the sides needs unscrewing and laying out on the bench, it's not as hard as it seems. It was built this way to make it sort of easy lol. Not much needs doing these days.

Brent
 
martin clark said:
A bit OT, but...

Actually I've heard this done within the 16bit CD standard, TT - > ADC-> DAC. The presentation still sounded like the top-end deck*, and yes, preferable in many ways to the CD issue. But I do believe it's not because vinyl actually has better resolution - just a different presentation....

Thanks for that Martin, food for thought.

Simon
 
Trying to find instructions for fitting TXs

I am trying to get instruction for how to fit extra PSUs to power the different bits of the DAC. I'd like to do this without having to remove the muting circuit, headphones or anything else.

These units from Conrad should be enough to do one side of the chip each: 190809 - 62
Later on I'd look to using some bigger torroidals and Spower regs, but for now those units are an easy option.

This stuff is probably in the monster thread somewhere - the thread needs its own section.
 
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martin clark said:
Actually I've heard this done within the 16bit CD standard, TT - > ADC-> DAC. The presentation still sounded like the top-end deck*, and yes, preferable in many ways to the CD issue. But I do believe it's not because vinyl actually has better resolution - just a different presentation.

Look at the overall chain for a start - the RIAA filter has +20db of bass boost (which encourages dynamic expansion, albeit undefined - that characteristic woolly warmness), a defined roll-off at the extreme bottom which is above that of CD's DC limit (helps-out amps and speakers by not loading them with extreme LF waffle). The other distinct RIAA characteristic is a treble rollof starting in the midrange and falling at -6dB/oct indefinitely. Afetr correcting for the treble pre-emphasis off disc, that continuing roll-off takes a huge bite out of ultrasonic unhappiness for many amplifier chains with poorly-deisgned input stages / no bandwidth limitation.

'Its not a level playing field' is what I'm suggesting...


* three very different cases: a fully-loaded LP12/Aro; Michel Orbe/Morch; and Townshend Rock3/ OriginLive silver. None of them slouches!

This is a new field of thought to me.

I used to backup my vinyl on dat tape and the results seemed better than CD. Nevertheless the sound lost some high freq detail and with it the stereo holographic image I get from the turntable was lost.

I understand your concerns about RIAA but I believe that even with its shortcomings, the vinyl record has much more information written and most importantly, the information is analogically stored not needing any type of digital treatment.

Not all vinyl discs sound good (the ratio must be 1/10 and you must look for the ones cut with analogic cutting lathes so you must always look for old used discs) nevertheless when you have a good pressing, the "real" image you get is not obtainable from CD.

Also, the bass response from CD can be surpassed by vinyl but you must have a heavy platter (more than 6kg).

Than to obtain resolution surpassing CD and lower distortion you need special hand made ultra expensive cartridges.

For the cartridge to work properly you must have a stiff ultra precision tone arm...

So the CD solution in the majority of the cases is better than vinyl because its much less expensive.

Ricardo
 
6h5c said:
After modding a Marantz CD63 and a CD67OSE I decided to make a list of all the various mod's I found here and elsewhere on the internet.
I'd like to donate my files to this forum, for all to enjoy! :D

Of course I do not pretend this list to be complete. :whazzat:
This is all I've done to the players so far and more good tips are welcome!

Greetings,

Ray.


Hi Ray, I'm trying to mod my CD63 as well and right now I've just finish on the power supply & HDAM section. Just want to know, what is the recommendation for 100n X7R? 100n PPS? SMD? Ferrites? I'm getting most of the parts from Farnell. In the Output filter section, your remark states Bessel filter, does this mean C605/606 already is part of the filter? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Thanks guys. This thread is so long that I'm not able to read all of them. Earlier, I have the CDP sent for mod on the op-amp with AD8065 w/ some BGs. It do sound differnt, but just recently I have modded the PSU section and I can hear the more from it. The next part I'd try is to take out the HDAM and muting transistors. Any recommendations for good relays to replace these transistors? Something that I can get from Farnell.
 
Super Raygulator values

I have the acoustica.org regulator material but don't get how the calculations are made for the super raygulators. The super raygulators have a pair of zeners followed by a diode on the adj leg.

So can someone please tell me the values or resistor required for 5, 12 and 15v operation or the formular for working it out?

This question has been asked before, wouldn't it be easy for a person that is using these to post a table of common values.