Hello,
I have Marantz CD6000 and amp PM7000, Siltech SQ28G3 interconnect, B&W CDM 1 SE, SonicLink AST-200, Tuner ST-6000. CD6000 is after modifications:
- clock TENT X-O
- Silver Mica 120 pF
- Sanyo Oscon 220 uF and 470 uF or Silmic in supplies circuits
- Black Gate 100 uF in output
- removing output transistors
- changing power cable to better fatter and screened
- muffled drive
- bases to op-apms tests
I changed NJM2114 to OPA2604
In PM7000:
- 6 x Silmic 220 uF in supplies circuits
- power cable to better fatter and screened
- bases to op-apms tests
I changed NJM2114 to OPA2604
My problem is to bright, to mess, to noisy sound, especially in mid/high and in rock thick, dense fragments, drums, vocals, guitars. I must decrease volume because sound is little painful and to importunate. Bas is ok. Generally after upgrades sound is better in space, stereo, there is air etc. But still is to bright, no warm, no absorbing and no nice for ears.
Interesting is that after changing NJM2114 to OPA2604 in CD6000 - soud is less bright, after changing NJM2114 to OPA2604 in PM7000 - soud is more bright.
1. I think about changing loudspeaker cable SonicLink AST-200 to better: AudioQuest CV-4, Van den Hul CS-122; and inside B&W (there are thin, cheap and poor cables) to better: as above or Cardas CoossLink. What are yours suggestions ?
2. Maybe some capacitors in CD and PM should I change back to oryginal ?
3. Maybe op-amps change to AD825, AD8620, OPA627, OP275 ?
4. Power cable are better fatter and screened ? I don't think so that is the reason silt up and noisy sound.
5. Supposedly changing capacitors aboutop-amps from 120 pF to 150 or 200 pF reduced high frequency ?
What are your opinions and experiences, what should I do to calm down sound and do clean and order ?
Thanks and Regards
Alex2
I have Marantz CD6000 and amp PM7000, Siltech SQ28G3 interconnect, B&W CDM 1 SE, SonicLink AST-200, Tuner ST-6000. CD6000 is after modifications:
- clock TENT X-O
- Silver Mica 120 pF
- Sanyo Oscon 220 uF and 470 uF or Silmic in supplies circuits
- Black Gate 100 uF in output
- removing output transistors
- changing power cable to better fatter and screened
- muffled drive
- bases to op-apms tests
I changed NJM2114 to OPA2604
In PM7000:
- 6 x Silmic 220 uF in supplies circuits
- power cable to better fatter and screened
- bases to op-apms tests
I changed NJM2114 to OPA2604
My problem is to bright, to mess, to noisy sound, especially in mid/high and in rock thick, dense fragments, drums, vocals, guitars. I must decrease volume because sound is little painful and to importunate. Bas is ok. Generally after upgrades sound is better in space, stereo, there is air etc. But still is to bright, no warm, no absorbing and no nice for ears.
Interesting is that after changing NJM2114 to OPA2604 in CD6000 - soud is less bright, after changing NJM2114 to OPA2604 in PM7000 - soud is more bright.
1. I think about changing loudspeaker cable SonicLink AST-200 to better: AudioQuest CV-4, Van den Hul CS-122; and inside B&W (there are thin, cheap and poor cables) to better: as above or Cardas CoossLink. What are yours suggestions ?
2. Maybe some capacitors in CD and PM should I change back to oryginal ?
3. Maybe op-amps change to AD825, AD8620, OPA627, OP275 ?
4. Power cable are better fatter and screened ? I don't think so that is the reason silt up and noisy sound.
5. Supposedly changing capacitors aboutop-amps from 120 pF to 150 or 200 pF reduced high frequency ?
What are your opinions and experiences, what should I do to calm down sound and do clean and order ?
Thanks and Regards
Alex2
Begging for help!!
Hi Alex2, I can provide much advice yet, as I’m just beginning the modification of my own CD6000KI, and from what I’ve read, they are fairly bright sounding players.
I suspect you may have seen the following pages on modifying the previous models Marantzs. Both of these discuss the brightness and the changing of the filter cap types and values.
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/cd67.html
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/63/63hacks.html
I’m quite aware of this potential characteristic, especially considering my speakers are considered quite bright in their own regard (Dynaudio Audience 52 Special Editions), and I use Silver speaker cables (QED Silver Anniversary), and a PM7200 Amp.
Silver Mica caps appear very popular for the filters in these players, just as you have used (120pF). I too plan to TRY them, however there appears to be mixed views on this. Have a good search through the forums and many people think they have a metallic sound. Another common alternative appears to be Polystyrene - which in general - the advice suggests sound a bit more tame, so this might be an option.
Both the above web pages discuss changing the values of these capacitors to affect the high roll-off, as per your question 5).
Unfortunately it appears to me that the CD6000 circuit and component values differ from the CD63/67 family, so I’m not sure how directly applicable the values advised on those sites are, even if the general theory is correct.
Also unfortunately my knowledge is not good enough to work out how to figure it out totally for myself!!!!
Would anyone please be willing to help point Alex2 and myself in the right direction as to how we could calculate some applicable values to change the filter order/response, and tame the top end? (and/or maybe as a start point, model the exisiting values to see what the current response would be!?!? That would make more sense wouldn't it?).
The schematic is here:
http://www.webmedia.pl/maciejza/tuning/img/mar_6kose/schemat6000.gif
I’m assuming they are 2211, 2212, 2715, 2716, 2717, 2718, 2719, 2720, 2721, 2722, 2723, 2724, 2725, 2726 - and 2213, 2214, 2217, 2218
Pictures of them in my CD6000 are in this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31660&highlight=
Help would be GREATLY appreciated if anyone can spare some patience....
🙂
Cheers!
Berin
Hi Alex2, I can provide much advice yet, as I’m just beginning the modification of my own CD6000KI, and from what I’ve read, they are fairly bright sounding players.
I suspect you may have seen the following pages on modifying the previous models Marantzs. Both of these discuss the brightness and the changing of the filter cap types and values.
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/cd67.html
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/63/63hacks.html
I’m quite aware of this potential characteristic, especially considering my speakers are considered quite bright in their own regard (Dynaudio Audience 52 Special Editions), and I use Silver speaker cables (QED Silver Anniversary), and a PM7200 Amp.
Silver Mica caps appear very popular for the filters in these players, just as you have used (120pF). I too plan to TRY them, however there appears to be mixed views on this. Have a good search through the forums and many people think they have a metallic sound. Another common alternative appears to be Polystyrene - which in general - the advice suggests sound a bit more tame, so this might be an option.
Both the above web pages discuss changing the values of these capacitors to affect the high roll-off, as per your question 5).
Unfortunately it appears to me that the CD6000 circuit and component values differ from the CD63/67 family, so I’m not sure how directly applicable the values advised on those sites are, even if the general theory is correct.
Also unfortunately my knowledge is not good enough to work out how to figure it out totally for myself!!!!
Would anyone please be willing to help point Alex2 and myself in the right direction as to how we could calculate some applicable values to change the filter order/response, and tame the top end? (and/or maybe as a start point, model the exisiting values to see what the current response would be!?!? That would make more sense wouldn't it?).
The schematic is here:
http://www.webmedia.pl/maciejza/tuning/img/mar_6kose/schemat6000.gif
I’m assuming they are 2211, 2212, 2715, 2716, 2717, 2718, 2719, 2720, 2721, 2722, 2723, 2724, 2725, 2726 - and 2213, 2214, 2217, 2218
Pictures of them in my CD6000 are in this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31660&highlight=
Help would be GREATLY appreciated if anyone can spare some patience....
🙂 Cheers!
Berin
Berin,
I'm curious, how are the modifications to your CD6000KI coming on? I have one and am keen to improve it (I am not bothered about it holding its market value) - currently it has a solid, wide soundstage but loses out to even a cheap turntable for life, soul and warmth.
I have read about the Audiocom Superclock 2 upgrade but this is beyond what I would be willing to spend. I have already spent £15 installing a better (captive) mains cable for it, which improved the detail slightly but has really not taken it on much in terms of pleasure of listening.
Any help or ideas would be well received.
Piero
🙂
I'm curious, how are the modifications to your CD6000KI coming on? I have one and am keen to improve it (I am not bothered about it holding its market value) - currently it has a solid, wide soundstage but loses out to even a cheap turntable for life, soul and warmth.
I have read about the Audiocom Superclock 2 upgrade but this is beyond what I would be willing to spend. I have already spent £15 installing a better (captive) mains cable for it, which improved the detail slightly but has really not taken it on much in terms of pleasure of listening.
Any help or ideas would be well received.
Piero
🙂
Hi Piero, WOW time flies!! 
Apologies for no update. Cheers for prompting me! 🙂
I'll post a response into my original thread tonight, to keep everything together!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31660
Kind regards
Berin
Apologies for no update. Cheers for prompting me! 🙂
I'll post a response into my original thread tonight, to keep everything together!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31660
Kind regards
Berin
OSCON
- Sanyo Oscon 220 uF and 470 uF or Silmic in supplies circuits
My problem is to bright, to mess, to noisy sound, especially in mid/high and in rock thick, dense fragments, drums, vocals, guitars.
+++++ Hi, Alex. Sanyo Oscon can be the reason of too bright and noisy sound if you put them into ANALOG power supply. Try to return to original or Elna Silmic. Also the BG FK will make a great job ( for U>10 v).
3. Maybe op-amps change to AD825, AD8620, OPA627, OP275 ?
+++++ OPA627
Regards,
Valery.
- Sanyo Oscon 220 uF and 470 uF or Silmic in supplies circuits
My problem is to bright, to mess, to noisy sound, especially in mid/high and in rock thick, dense fragments, drums, vocals, guitars.
+++++ Hi, Alex. Sanyo Oscon can be the reason of too bright and noisy sound if you put them into ANALOG power supply. Try to return to original or Elna Silmic. Also the BG FK will make a great job ( for U>10 v).
3. Maybe op-amps change to AD825, AD8620, OPA627, OP275 ?
+++++ OPA627
Regards,
Valery.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.