I emailed my Marantz support these days and asked for
help with the mod.
The mod itself is easy and for sure well made by the french
support. Audiotronic that did the mod for me is sure about
the competence the french Marantz teams have.
So there only is left the normal problems that stay due to
weak recording, wrong burning programs or a diying laser unit...
help with the mod.
The mod itself is easy and for sure well made by the french
support. Audiotronic that did the mod for me is sure about
the competence the french Marantz teams have.
So there only is left the normal problems that stay due to
weak recording, wrong burning programs or a diying laser unit...
In fact, I just discovered that they _did_ fix the problem, since many cdr's that didn't work before now work. By the way, I asked another Marantz service station if "changing the capacitor" was the right thing to do, and they said yes, so that must be the mod involved here.
Only the TDK Speed-X 48X media, burned at 4X on a Yamaha CRW-70 with Nero, don't work at all (only displays table of contents, then hangs).
My other TDK Media (Reflex Ultra, etc.) work like a charm, so do you have an idea why these newer CDRs fail ?
Which brand(s) _and_ model(s) do you recommend for lunatic CD players like the CD6000 ?
Only the TDK Speed-X 48X media, burned at 4X on a Yamaha CRW-70 with Nero, don't work at all (only displays table of contents, then hangs).
My other TDK Media (Reflex Ultra, etc.) work like a charm, so do you have an idea why these newer CDRs fail ?
Which brand(s) _and_ model(s) do you recommend for lunatic CD players like the CD6000 ?
fredy said:
I've never seen any of my ordinary Fuji's fail in any player.
I sell them to many people, all with different burners, programs and players and never had any complains.
/Hugo
I HAVE THIS PROBLEM TOO!
I have had a love hate relationship with my cd6000. Yes, it is a very good player for the money, but the cd r thing is a BIG drag.
Like others, I found that certain brands of blank media work better than others, and the cds should be burned as slow as possible. It is also better to burn "track at once" rather than "disc at once".
Especially, my kids bum out with it, because they like to switch tunes quickly and often play the same one over and over.
I think this is really bad style on the part of Marantz. They should own up to it and fix the things for free. Unfortunately, the tech service is really poor here in Spain. The dealer had to send it to Barcelona, and it took them months to figure out what the problem was.
Anyway, if anyone here finds an easy fix for the problem, please post it. I'm getting very sick of this piece of junk.😡
I have had a love hate relationship with my cd6000. Yes, it is a very good player for the money, but the cd r thing is a BIG drag.
Like others, I found that certain brands of blank media work better than others, and the cds should be burned as slow as possible. It is also better to burn "track at once" rather than "disc at once".
Especially, my kids bum out with it, because they like to switch tunes quickly and often play the same one over and over.
I think this is really bad style on the part of Marantz. They should own up to it and fix the things for free. Unfortunately, the tech service is really poor here in Spain. The dealer had to send it to Barcelona, and it took them months to figure out what the problem was.
Anyway, if anyone here finds an easy fix for the problem, please post it. I'm getting very sick of this piece of junk.😡
Wombat and Fredy
Hello there,
I have the same problem with CD6000, he will not play
some CDR's. I have not problem with Marantz CD5000 at all.
I read Your post in DIY Forum that service is help You.
Please, can You tell me what they change and You have no problems anymore?
Please
Can You tell me the e-mail of service, i want to wrote him about
problem.
Thanks
Best regards, Boban risci@softhome.net
Hello there,
I have the same problem with CD6000, he will not play
some CDR's. I have not problem with Marantz CD5000 at all.
I read Your post in DIY Forum that service is help You.
Please, can You tell me what they change and You have no problems anymore?
Please
Can You tell me the e-mail of service, i want to wrote him about
problem.
Thanks
Best regards, Boban risci@softhome.net
CD6000OSE
Hi,
same problem here !
Wombat, Audiotronic is located in Germany ?
fredy, where was your unit fixed ?
Thanks...
Hi,
same problem here !
Wombat, Audiotronic is located in Germany ?
fredy, where was your unit fixed ?
Thanks...
The problem with reading CD-Rs is caused by a missing 10pF capacitor on the HF Amp pcb.
The HF Amp pcb is attached to the underside of the transport.
The transport has to be removed from the machine in order to access this pcb.
Orientate the copper (track) side of the pcb so that the semi-circular cutaway in the narrow tongue of the pcb is facing downwards.
You will see a group of four or five surface-mount resistors and capacitors situated adjacent to and above IC7404 (PC74HCU04D), which is the smaller of the two ICs on the other (component) side of the pcb, the other IC being 7500 (TDA1302T).
In the middle of the square formed by this group of resistors and capacitors you will see a space labelled 2509, (located immediately to the right of 3504, a 22K resistor).
This is the location of the missing 10Pf capacitor, which if it were present, would be connected in parallel with the 22K resistor (3504). I found that an ohm meter was very useful here, just to be sure the vacant pads were in parallel with 3504.
Since I added a ceramic disk capacitor to my machine (my eyes are not good enough to worh with surface-mount components), I've not had any problems with any makes of CD-R.
I hope this fix solves your problems too.
Unfortunately I do not have any schematics or drawings of this mod.
The HF Amp pcb is attached to the underside of the transport.
The transport has to be removed from the machine in order to access this pcb.
Orientate the copper (track) side of the pcb so that the semi-circular cutaway in the narrow tongue of the pcb is facing downwards.
You will see a group of four or five surface-mount resistors and capacitors situated adjacent to and above IC7404 (PC74HCU04D), which is the smaller of the two ICs on the other (component) side of the pcb, the other IC being 7500 (TDA1302T).
In the middle of the square formed by this group of resistors and capacitors you will see a space labelled 2509, (located immediately to the right of 3504, a 22K resistor).
This is the location of the missing 10Pf capacitor, which if it were present, would be connected in parallel with the 22K resistor (3504). I found that an ohm meter was very useful here, just to be sure the vacant pads were in parallel with 3504.
Since I added a ceramic disk capacitor to my machine (my eyes are not good enough to worh with surface-mount components), I've not had any problems with any makes of CD-R.
I hope this fix solves your problems too.
Unfortunately I do not have any schematics or drawings of this mod.
The CD4000, 5000, 6000 players from Marantz have many transport problems.
Since they were released.
Too many players were returned in the warranty period with transport problems.
This is information from a friend of mine that sells hi-fi (and high-end).
When they were released I was thinking in changing CDP, so I asked him what he thinks about these.
He told me to forget it, if I don't want to have troubles.
BTW, I have many Fuji CDRs and I consider them one of the best, they play everywhere.😉
Since they were released.
Too many players were returned in the warranty period with transport problems.
This is information from a friend of mine that sells hi-fi (and high-end).
When they were released I was thinking in changing CDP, so I asked him what he thinks about these.
He told me to forget it, if I don't want to have troubles.
BTW, I have many Fuji CDRs and I consider them one of the best, they play everywhere.😉
Ups, didn´t look at this thread for a while.
@Bourla
I doubt it will really help you but Audiotronic is located in Heidelberg, Germany.
This is next to my town.
@afblaster
Is it on this PCB i attached the picture but on the other side?
If there is interest i can open it up again and take a photo of the right side and you can point to the right part.
@carlosfm
Aside the Laser had problems without the mod this player really rocks!
I have damged CDs here you can´t play anywhere without crackles this player
plays without any trouble.
Btw. You can´t generalize Fuji to be the best. I watch tests about different
media and burners for years now and very often the media has to consort with
the burner. One brand coming very often out best are the Verbatim Azzos.
Super Azzo from Metsubishi Chemicals and even better but hard to get, the
Metal Azzo. Both only sold by Verbatim, if i am right.
@Bourla
I doubt it will really help you but Audiotronic is located in Heidelberg, Germany.
This is next to my town.
@afblaster
Is it on this PCB i attached the picture but on the other side?
If there is interest i can open it up again and take a photo of the right side and you can point to the right part.
@carlosfm
Aside the Laser had problems without the mod this player really rocks!
I have damged CDs here you can´t play anywhere without crackles this player
plays without any trouble.
Btw. You can´t generalize Fuji to be the best. I watch tests about different
media and burners for years now and very often the media has to consort with
the burner. One brand coming very often out best are the Verbatim Azzos.
Super Azzo from Metsubishi Chemicals and even better but hard to get, the
Metal Azzo. Both only sold by Verbatim, if i am right.
Attachments
@ wombat
yes, this is the HF Amp board, (not) carrying the missing capacitor.
The component(s) in question are located on the reverse side of the board, situated just below and adjacent to the lower (smaller) IC on the board. This IC is #7404, type PC74HCU04D.
On your photo the square shape of these components' solder joints are clearly visible just below and slightly to the right of centre of this IC.
Hope this helps.
Best regards, Richard
yes, this is the HF Amp board, (not) carrying the missing capacitor.
The component(s) in question are located on the reverse side of the board, situated just below and adjacent to the lower (smaller) IC on the board. This IC is #7404, type PC74HCU04D.
On your photo the square shape of these components' solder joints are clearly visible just below and slightly to the right of centre of this IC.
Hope this helps.
Best regards, Richard
Ok, if i got time this weekend i will take a photo of the right place.
This way we may see the mod i spent my money for 🙂
This photo was taken a while ago.
Something OT about CDR media again, sorry. Taiyo-Yuden produces layer materials that are high regarded in long term stability and quality also.
With some luck you can get cheap media with this material.
This way we may see the mod i spent my money for 🙂
This photo was taken a while ago.
Something OT about CDR media again, sorry. Taiyo-Yuden produces layer materials that are high regarded in long term stability and quality also.
With some luck you can get cheap media with this material.
afblaster,
You make my life easier 🙂
CD6000 now working perfectly, reading everything.
There is no problem at all, no skipping problems,
no problems to read burned CD's on whatever speed.
The capacitor I use is multilayer ceramic, 10pF like U say.
I think the music now sounds better 😉
Thanks again
You make my life easier 🙂
CD6000 now working perfectly, reading everything.
There is no problem at all, no skipping problems,
no problems to read burned CD's on whatever speed.
The capacitor I use is multilayer ceramic, 10pF like U say.
I think the music now sounds better 😉
Thanks again
European Marantz 6000 CD OSE in the US : CD-R Problem
Hi all,
I bought my Marantz 6000 CD sometime in 1998 in Europe, but since then I moved to the US to study, and of course I brought my Marantz with me (using a step up converter 110 to 220V).
I had the problem with CD-Rs in Europe as well, but when I contacted the dealer he replied that it hs to do with the "high quality pick-up laser beam" which cannot read cheap CD-Rs.
So I moved to TDKs (Dark Green) and I was OK for some time. But now in the US I can no longer find GREEN ones, so I switched to SIlver Mitsui CD-Rs. It seemed to work, but after changing my old 4x Yamaha REcorder with a Plextor 8x and burning a few compilations the CD player will no longer read the CD-Rs correctly. If you skip or play in random order, the ERROR message comes up.
I am glad that at least now, through this thread, I know this is a well established problem. Any suggestions on what to do? Some of you have tried placing the missing capacitor. Is that hard? Can someone give a more detailed description on how to do that?
Thanks!
Hi all,
I bought my Marantz 6000 CD sometime in 1998 in Europe, but since then I moved to the US to study, and of course I brought my Marantz with me (using a step up converter 110 to 220V).
I had the problem with CD-Rs in Europe as well, but when I contacted the dealer he replied that it hs to do with the "high quality pick-up laser beam" which cannot read cheap CD-Rs.
So I moved to TDKs (Dark Green) and I was OK for some time. But now in the US I can no longer find GREEN ones, so I switched to SIlver Mitsui CD-Rs. It seemed to work, but after changing my old 4x Yamaha REcorder with a Plextor 8x and burning a few compilations the CD player will no longer read the CD-Rs correctly. If you skip or play in random order, the ERROR message comes up.
I am glad that at least now, through this thread, I know this is a well established problem. Any suggestions on what to do? Some of you have tried placing the missing capacitor. Is that hard? Can someone give a more detailed description on how to do that?
Thanks!
Problem solved?
I think I may have found a work around for the CD-R Error Problem.
Up till now, I was using a YAMAHA 4260 CD-RW to write the CDs, (at 4x) and the only combination that would work was the TDK-74 (Dark Green, Manufactured by Phillips - they were exactly the same with the Phillips CD-R74!) or the more expensive silver MITSUI CD-Rs.
I recently had to change my old yamaha drive to a plextor 8/2/20. Even with MITSUI CD-Rs, the Error would come up. Most of the times the CD-R was unreadable, and if the TOC was read properly, once in a while that is, skipping to a next track would hang the machine.
So I thought there must be something different now. Maybe audio Quality? Laser Power? Something in the Plextor was probably of inferior quality to the Yamaha.
After several tries, I pinned down the problem. Writing with Plextor at 8x or 4x Mitsui CD-Rs, is unsuccessful. However, at 2x it works FINE! (Using EAC). Making compilations with Feurio - to take advantage of the CD-Text Feature- were fruitless, even at 2x recording speed.
Furthermore, writing at 2x (either Yamaha or Plextor) produces CD-Rs compatible, even with Cheap SONY CD-Rs that were previously unreadable by the machine!
So, I may have sacrificed speed (Yamaha 4x burns Mitsui CD-Rs OK but not Sony) but my Plextor 8/2/20 can record at 2x Mitsuis and Sonys WITH CD-Text! (I just hope I am not sacrificing Quality, but even so, the Marantz Picky Trasnporter would pick that up and would not play, so I guess I am safe for the time being).
If someone else has the same problem, maybe they should start using REALLY LOW recording speeds! (Maybe the pits are burned more powrfully and clearly).
Any comments?
I think I may have found a work around for the CD-R Error Problem.
Up till now, I was using a YAMAHA 4260 CD-RW to write the CDs, (at 4x) and the only combination that would work was the TDK-74 (Dark Green, Manufactured by Phillips - they were exactly the same with the Phillips CD-R74!) or the more expensive silver MITSUI CD-Rs.
I recently had to change my old yamaha drive to a plextor 8/2/20. Even with MITSUI CD-Rs, the Error would come up. Most of the times the CD-R was unreadable, and if the TOC was read properly, once in a while that is, skipping to a next track would hang the machine.
So I thought there must be something different now. Maybe audio Quality? Laser Power? Something in the Plextor was probably of inferior quality to the Yamaha.
After several tries, I pinned down the problem. Writing with Plextor at 8x or 4x Mitsui CD-Rs, is unsuccessful. However, at 2x it works FINE! (Using EAC). Making compilations with Feurio - to take advantage of the CD-Text Feature- were fruitless, even at 2x recording speed.
Furthermore, writing at 2x (either Yamaha or Plextor) produces CD-Rs compatible, even with Cheap SONY CD-Rs that were previously unreadable by the machine!
So, I may have sacrificed speed (Yamaha 4x burns Mitsui CD-Rs OK but not Sony) but my Plextor 8/2/20 can record at 2x Mitsuis and Sonys WITH CD-Text! (I just hope I am not sacrificing Quality, but even so, the Marantz Picky Trasnporter would pick that up and would not play, so I guess I am safe for the time being).
If someone else has the same problem, maybe they should start using REALLY LOW recording speeds! (Maybe the pits are burned more powrfully and clearly).
Any comments?
afblaster,
My CD6000 OSE LE working perfectly now.
All this for a missing capacitor...
Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!
My CD6000 OSE LE working perfectly now.
All this for a missing capacitor...
Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!
Hi !!!
I have the same probem: error message with my marantz 6000 ose le cd recorder.
when i skip song or with readind cdr-text, a message error appears and crash player.
Can you give me a photo or plan of the exact position where i must solder the 10pf capacitor?
Thanx very very very much !!!
I have the same probem: error message with my marantz 6000 ose le cd recorder.
when i skip song or with readind cdr-text, a message error appears and crash player.
Can you give me a photo or plan of the exact position where i must solder the 10pf capacitor?
Thanx very very very much !!!
cd67mk2 ose
Hi guys,
I've been reading this thread and it may be relevant to my problems too.
I have a Marantz CD67mk2 OSE, which doesn't read any discs now. It shows "Err 10" mostly, and sometimes "Err 7" too. Sound familiar?
It used to have a CDM12.1, which I just replaced with a VAM1202, but the problem remains. Sound familiar?
It also has the same circuit board under the transport.
Do you think I should try the capacator? If anyone could show me a picture of where to solder it, I can try it out...
Thanks a million! 🙂
Berend
Hi guys,
I've been reading this thread and it may be relevant to my problems too.
I have a Marantz CD67mk2 OSE, which doesn't read any discs now. It shows "Err 10" mostly, and sometimes "Err 7" too. Sound familiar?
It used to have a CDM12.1, which I just replaced with a VAM1202, but the problem remains. Sound familiar?
It also has the same circuit board under the transport.
Do you think I should try the capacator? If anyone could show me a picture of where to solder it, I can try it out...
Thanks a million! 🙂
Berend
i think you may all be wrong its the VAM1201 transport that's the problem
I have read through all of your postings and I have the same problem. But I know what is wrong wth mine i am just trying to find a solution.
If you remove the lid of your CD6000 and load a disk you will probably notice that CDs that play perfectly are spinning with no wobble and the ones that don't play wobble. It seems to be a problem with the disk clamp and the thickness of the CDs.
All this talk of repacing ball bearings is nonsense because the VAM1201 has no ballbearing it has a magnetic disc clamp in the cd6000.
Has any one got a solution to the disc clamp problem?
I have read through all of your postings and I have the same problem. But I know what is wrong wth mine i am just trying to find a solution.
If you remove the lid of your CD6000 and load a disk you will probably notice that CDs that play perfectly are spinning with no wobble and the ones that don't play wobble. It seems to be a problem with the disk clamp and the thickness of the CDs.
All this talk of repacing ball bearings is nonsense because the VAM1201 has no ballbearing it has a magnetic disc clamp in the cd6000.
Has any one got a solution to the disc clamp problem?
I inserted allso a missing cap and it did the trick. All CDR:s work now flawlessly and some problematic originals work allso.
Thanks to afblaster and r!sc! you two indeed made my life a lot easier. 🙂
Here's picture i recived, it shows the spot. Since not all components listed on the post are marked on the board.
Thanks to afblaster and r!sc! you two indeed made my life a lot easier. 🙂
Here's picture i recived, it shows the spot. Since not all components listed on the post are marked on the board.
Attachments
10pF capacitor fix for Marantz CD-17 mk3?
Thanks guys, this is an informative thread!
My Marantz CD-17 mk3 has also this problem with CDR's (not with CDRW's).
Do you think this capacitor will fix the CD-17 mk3 too?
It has, as far as I know, the same transport and is from the same period as the Marantz CD-6000.
BTW, who invented this fix?
Thanks guys, this is an informative thread!
My Marantz CD-17 mk3 has also this problem with CDR's (not with CDRW's).
Do you think this capacitor will fix the CD-17 mk3 too?
It has, as far as I know, the same transport and is from the same period as the Marantz CD-6000.
BTW, who invented this fix?
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