I have tried finding an answer to this on this board as I know I have seen it discussed in the past. My Marantz cd54 won't read a disc unless it has been powered up for 45 minutes to an hour...I know the 3 large 2200uf caps look bad other than that not sure what could be causing it...
To me, this "warming up" is the capacitors taking their time to charge up to the required voltage, which is a sure sign of bad capacitor and imminent complete system failure when the capacitor decides to give up totally.
I figured as much...just not sure which caps? I had plans on changing all the caps that had anything to do with heat. Like I stated earlier the only ones that look bad are the very large ones..2200uf 25v...the rest look solid.
its should be one of the small size cap. Look for 0.22 , 2.2uF around the laser circuit.
On the CDM1 - CDM2 there is a certain cap that goes wrong
search on the forum.
did you get the schematic?
Is it look like the Philips 303??
Service manual, eprom result list | ElektroTanya | Service manuals and repair tips for electronics experts
On the CDM1 - CDM2 there is a certain cap that goes wrong
search on the forum.
did you get the schematic?
Is it look like the Philips 303??
Service manual, eprom result list | ElektroTanya | Service manuals and repair tips for electronics experts
danico..
I don't have a schematic...and this one has a CDM-0....I looked under the transport and all caps look solid...bt i will get a hold of some and swap them out...Albeit, when it does warm up it plays like a charm..
I don't have a schematic...and this one has a CDM-0....I looked under the transport and all caps look solid...bt i will get a hold of some and swap them out...Albeit, when it does warm up it plays like a charm..
You will be very dissappointed....If you need 45 minutes warmup for it to play
it means there is a break somewhere.Download the CD63 service manual it
should be similar.Try swapping the flexi cable of the laser or check the pcb board for hairline breaks and various cable assemblies.We give too much credit to electrolytic capacitors.😀
Maybe this tread can help you. I know I just read about the same problem.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/7849-extending-philips-cdm4-life.html
" I repaired a B&O CD5500 version 2 (CDM4) once with the identical lowering of sampling test voltage after a few minutes. Turned out the 33ufd axial cap in the laser supply servo board was on the way out. After replacement the machine has worked flawlessly for the client with an excellent 50mv center of disc laser sample. This has been 5 years now. I've seen many CDM2 with this identical problem."
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/7849-extending-philips-cdm4-life.html
" I repaired a B&O CD5500 version 2 (CDM4) once with the identical lowering of sampling test voltage after a few minutes. Turned out the 33ufd axial cap in the laser supply servo board was on the way out. After replacement the machine has worked flawlessly for the client with an excellent 50mv center of disc laser sample. This has been 5 years now. I've seen many CDM2 with this identical problem."
Revive an old thread to see if you guys can help me out.
First, I'm good at taking things apart and reassembling them. I have no skills in reading schematics.
I have a Marantz CD-54 that would read and play the first 2 tracks of a CD and then stop. I bought a replacement CDM1 assembly from EBay - supposedly NEW.
I have the new CDM1 in and the CD spins but never gets to the Table of Contents (TOC). I do see some difference in the CDM1 board. Notice the GREEN and YELLOW wire specifically. I don't know were these wire should go now.
I see on PIC 3 there should be an ORANGE and YELLOW wire attached to the pin board. However, I don't see a ORANGE wire that was part of the old CDM1 hook up. There is the YELLOW and GREEN wires that I mentioned earlier that I don't know were to hook up. Maybe the are the Orange and YELLOW equivalents?
PIC1 is old CDM1
PIC2 is new CDM1 w/o yellow and green wire attached
PIC 3 is from the Marantz CD-54 Service Manual and where the color coded wires should attach.
What do I have messed up here?
First, I'm good at taking things apart and reassembling them. I have no skills in reading schematics.
I have a Marantz CD-54 that would read and play the first 2 tracks of a CD and then stop. I bought a replacement CDM1 assembly from EBay - supposedly NEW.
I have the new CDM1 in and the CD spins but never gets to the Table of Contents (TOC). I do see some difference in the CDM1 board. Notice the GREEN and YELLOW wire specifically. I don't know were these wire should go now.
I see on PIC 3 there should be an ORANGE and YELLOW wire attached to the pin board. However, I don't see a ORANGE wire that was part of the old CDM1 hook up. There is the YELLOW and GREEN wires that I mentioned earlier that I don't know were to hook up. Maybe the are the Orange and YELLOW equivalents?
PIC1 is old CDM1
PIC2 is new CDM1 w/o yellow and green wire attached
PIC 3 is from the Marantz CD-54 Service Manual and where the color coded wires should attach.
What do I have messed up here?
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I talked with the individual I bought the CDM1 from. Said the orange wire and the green wire are one in the same. So all the wires are hooked to the pin blocks. I insert a CD and it does spin. But, no TOC read. Anyway to tell if the laser is working?
Jason
Jason
Usually (99% of machines) the platter only spins when focus is found, so the platter spinning means the laser is working at a basic level. Next step would be to connect a scope to the RF signal from the laser and check that the amplitude/quality is as expected.
One of the main problems with all these old Philips players are the electroylitics... and I can see a 33uf axial in your pictures.
One of the main problems with all these old Philips players are the electroylitics... and I can see a 33uf axial in your pictures.
Thanks for the reply...I don't have a scope and wouldn't know how to use it besides. Guess I'll have to take it to my local repair shop and see if they can adjust. Was hoping the swap out of the CDM1 would fix the issue.
On these older players the first job has to be to replace those electrolytics as they are the number one problem for these type of faults. Its quite possible your original pickup is actually OK.
Back again. I took the CD54 in to my local electronics repair shop. They say its a jitter problem and no parts to repair. Any one have an opinion on their diagnosis?
Hmmm... that's part of the disc clamp retainer. Unless its physically broken I'd be surprised tbh. The clamp is magnetic (that's 526F in the drawing) and as long as it drops onto the disc and isn't fouling anything then it should be OK. The part arrowed is just the "cage" that holds the clamp when no disc is present and the drawer is open.
If the CD sits on the platter OK and spins true (look edge on at the disc as you rotate it, you can spin it by hand) then there is no problem in that area.
If the CD sits on the platter OK and spins true (look edge on at the disc as you rotate it, you can spin it by hand) then there is no problem in that area.
When it spins, the rotation isn't a perfect circle and make no rubbing noise. I really need to see is the laser is actually working. I guess I'll go into a dark room and see if I can see any light coming out of it.
If the laser wasn't working then it wouldn't spin. The laser finds focus first on the stationary disc and only when that is found does it spin... its easier focusing on a stationary object than a spinning one.
The disc should run absolutely (and that means perfectly) true when looking down at the disc edge from above and when looking horizontally at the disc edge from eye level with it. Try a couple of discs... some can have lacquer that spills onto the edge and give misleading results. If its not true then there is a problem with the way the disc sits on the platter, or with the platter/motor assembly.
The disc should run absolutely (and that means perfectly) true when looking down at the disc edge from above and when looking horizontally at the disc edge from eye level with it. Try a couple of discs... some can have lacquer that spills onto the edge and give misleading results. If its not true then there is a problem with the way the disc sits on the platter, or with the platter/motor assembly.
I should clarify....the disc looks to spin perfectly...its just that little plastic part I mentioned that doesn't look to spin in a perfect circle......how would you like a project? This thing is DOA as of right now. I can bundle it up and send it to you. Send me a PM if you have an interest. I could pay you for your time and any parts.
I just took it into a dark room.....I see a faint red light coming from the laser...so you are right...its working...so now I'm really at a loss on what the issue is.
That sounds OK then... those clamps do sit "randomly" on the disc as they fall into place.
I appreciate your confidence in my abilities 🙂 but I've enough projects (and otherwise) to keep me occupied tbh.
I still suspect your problem has a fair chance of being down to old and dried out electrolytic caps.
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