Hi guys,
I have an ageing Marantz CD-36 (I know its basic, I'm not exactly brimming with cash!) CD player on my system and was wondering if there are any worthwhile modifications for this unit? Google isn't throwing up much.
Many thanks,
Jon.
I have an ageing Marantz CD-36 (I know its basic, I'm not exactly brimming with cash!) CD player on my system and was wondering if there are any worthwhile modifications for this unit? Google isn't throwing up much.
Many thanks,
Jon.
Hi.
I have not come across this model before and there is little information to be had from Google.
I did try downloading a service manual but it turned out to be a misprint - wrong model completely.
Replace the output leads if they are still standard. Drill 2 holes in the rear panel above where they now exit. Use Mapins insulated 'gold' phono sockets - they are OK.
The mechanism is the Philips CDM12.* .
This benefits from a 1euro / 5p coin or similar being glued into the centre.
The case would benefit from damping. These are available from the net :-
Rowemeister's shop :- http://www.audioupgrades.co.uk/bitumen.shtml
I buy exactly the same from my local car shop for about 99p cheaper!
You treat the lid and the base being careful to avoid obstructing the on/off and the cd mechanism. You can also add small pieces to the plastic frame of the cd mechanism (there are some obvious hollows) Obviously not on any moving parts.
Later, you can change the output opamps, capacitors, remove the muting transistors, upgrade the power supply no end and also add an aftermarket clock BUT whether it is worth it depends on the actual chipset and as yet I don't know what that is!!
Andy
I have not come across this model before and there is little information to be had from Google.
I did try downloading a service manual but it turned out to be a misprint - wrong model completely.
Replace the output leads if they are still standard. Drill 2 holes in the rear panel above where they now exit. Use Mapins insulated 'gold' phono sockets - they are OK.
The mechanism is the Philips CDM12.* .
This benefits from a 1euro / 5p coin or similar being glued into the centre.
The case would benefit from damping. These are available from the net :-
Rowemeister's shop :- http://www.audioupgrades.co.uk/bitumen.shtml
I buy exactly the same from my local car shop for about 99p cheaper!
You treat the lid and the base being careful to avoid obstructing the on/off and the cd mechanism. You can also add small pieces to the plastic frame of the cd mechanism (there are some obvious hollows) Obviously not on any moving parts.
Later, you can change the output opamps, capacitors, remove the muting transistors, upgrade the power supply no end and also add an aftermarket clock BUT whether it is worth it depends on the actual chipset and as yet I don't know what that is!!
Andy
What an interesting and helpful reply, thank you! i have already damped the drawer mechanism with silicone sealant inside the drawer cavities, i'm very interested to see about carrying out some of the mods you mention. Thanks again for your helpful reply.
No problem.
I've a feeling the DAC chip is a TDA1545 which is not the 'best' around but does respond to output tweaking as my previous post.
I also meant a 10p coin not 5p
Andy
I've a feeling the DAC chip is a TDA1545 which is not the 'best' around but does respond to output tweaking as my previous post.
I also meant a 10p coin not 5p
Andy
Sorry, i'm being dense. Where on the mech do you put the coin? I presume the extra weight damps the mechanism?
If the mechanism is a cdm12.* (is says on a label at the rear), In the clamping mechanism, there is a small magnetic disc visible on top. A 10p fits nicely on there with a bit of glue. Marantz actually did a service mod. on early models to cure some vibration issues.
On the picture, you can also see some damping material.
Andy
On the picture, you can also see some damping material.
Andy
Attachments
Hi Jon,
What are the OpAmps in this Marantz. They will be the 8 legged I/C's near the output sockets, are they NE5532 or 5534. If it does use these then replacing them may give you quite a noticeable improvement.
I wondered about the 10p. Second time that's cropped up in as many days.
What are the OpAmps in this Marantz. They will be the 8 legged I/C's near the output sockets, are they NE5532 or 5534. If it does use these then replacing them may give you quite a noticeable improvement.
I wondered about the 10p. Second time that's cropped up in as many days.
I haven't had it apart in a while to look. Next time I do I will take some photos and list major components, especially as not much seems to be known about them (mainly I suppose because its a bit low rent?).
Cheers guys, my modding juices are flowing!
Cheers guys, my modding juices are flowing!
There is a site on google where you can download a manual for $10.
I have found this review of the CD38. I don't know if it is the same but adjacent Marantz numbers usually are!
http://www.tnt-audio.com/sorgenti/cd38e.html
If it is the same, the downside is the DAC chip which will probably be the SAA7341. This ia not considered a great chip.
As the review states, some improvement can be made with damping the case etc.
I would hold of on other mods until you get hold of a service manual or can take some good photos of the board.
Andy
I have found this review of the CD38. I don't know if it is the same but adjacent Marantz numbers usually are!
http://www.tnt-audio.com/sorgenti/cd38e.html
If it is the same, the downside is the DAC chip which will probably be the SAA7341. This ia not considered a great chip.
As the review states, some improvement can be made with damping the case etc.
I would hold of on other mods until you get hold of a service manual or can take some good photos of the board.
Andy
I can understand why the replacement of certain semiconductor components might make a difference, but why does damping the case improve things? If its a digital device surely its just a straight D to A conversion? Especially if its oversampling and storing the data in a buffer?
I'm not being incredulous, just trying to improve my understanding!
I'm not being incredulous, just trying to improve my understanding!
It is not a straightforward digital device.
The signal up to the point it goes into the DAC is RF analog.
The servos controlling the focus, tracking etc are analog.
There is a crystal oscillator providing timing information , also "analog".
All the above are sensitive to vibration. Hence damping the chassis, mechanism etc can/does have an effect.
Andy
The signal up to the point it goes into the DAC is RF analog.
The servos controlling the focus, tracking etc are analog.
There is a crystal oscillator providing timing information , also "analog".
All the above are sensitive to vibration. Hence damping the chassis, mechanism etc can/does have an effect.
Andy
Well, I have had the top off and taken some pics, the problem is I couldn't find any op-amps! I fairly new to electronics but still, I expected to be able to spot an OpAmp at 100 yards. None of the components even vaguely resembled an opAmp.
I'll post a photo of the circuit later. It turned out it was the Philips transport earlier suggested as well.
I'll post a photo of the circuit later. It turned out it was the Philips transport earlier suggested as well.
For those interested, here is the main board in my CD-36. No other boards other than those with display/buttons on were present, and the only other item inside the case was the transformer. I can only see one item that looks op-amp-ish, but I'm not even convinced about that, especially as there is only one of them.
Sorry about the limited detail but photobucket wouldn't let me host it at full size, and I am also aware this is quite a big picture for a forum but I figured you needed to be able to recognise the components!
Sorry about the limited detail but photobucket wouldn't let me host it at full size, and I am also aware this is quite a big picture for a forum but I figured you needed to be able to recognise the components!
The opamp is the 8-pin black beastie in the top right of the photo.
I would guess that my previous guess at the DAC chip is accurate unless you want to dismantle it and look out the chip numbers??
As such it is not really worth spending too much on.
some of the car panel damping mentioned earlier would probably the limit
Andy
I would guess that my previous guess at the DAC chip is accurate unless you want to dismantle it and look out the chip numbers??
As such it is not really worth spending too much on.
some of the car panel damping mentioned earlier would probably the limit
Andy
If that 4560 -- which is a dual OpAmp, ( it's a bit like a 4558 ) arghhh but with a bit more umpty for driving low impedances is the output buffer then it's worth swapping.
Can you trace from pins 1 and 7 which will be the left and right outputs if we are correct, back to the output sockets -- please tell me it has sockets, not captive leads 🙂 There will probably be a series cap on route and possibly a resistor or two.
Edit -- lets not be to negative, there IS room for improvement here. Poor Jons wondering what to say next. And I'm going to have my tea------ ta-ra.
Can you trace from pins 1 and 7 which will be the left and right outputs if we are correct, back to the output sockets -- please tell me it has sockets, not captive leads 🙂 There will probably be a series cap on route and possibly a resistor or two.
Edit -- lets not be to negative, there IS room for improvement here. Poor Jons wondering what to say next. And I'm going to have my tea------ ta-ra.
and I'm going to bed as I'm 4.5 hours ahead of you, here in the Indian Ocean
Andy
Edit :- I like the sticker on the front !!
Andy
Edit :- I like the sticker on the front !!
I'm not too bothered if this is a duffer; makes it less stressful to mod! It only cost 7 pounds so I don't mind experiments. Next time I have the lid off i'll look further.
If i did want to go for a better model of Cd player, from any manufacturer, on a budget of shirt buttons, what would you suggest?
If i did want to go for a better model of Cd player, from any manufacturer, on a budget of shirt buttons, what would you suggest?
Hi,
This is what I would do. And it's not a duffer at all 🙂 See if the 4560 really is an output buffer- it looks to be though, I can see "pairs" of similar parts round about. Without pulling it apart you can do that by playing a CD at LOW volume and touch pin's 2 and 3 alternately with a metallic object eg screwdriver. One channel should click or buzz. Pins 5 and 6 for other channel.
If it does I would try a TL072 OpAmp ( or even a TL082 - same but slightly higher noise figure - you almost certainly wouldn't hear the difference here ) from Maplin. Sonically they are excellent -- yes there are better but the TL072 is ideal for this and costs around £0.60 or so. Should be a noticeable improvement. You can always fit an 8 DIL socket so you can try others easily as well.
Edit - No idea what you should listen to as replacement 🙂 A lot depends on the ability of your system and what your expectations are. Cambridge stuff gets good reviews at the price.
This is what I would do. And it's not a duffer at all 🙂 See if the 4560 really is an output buffer- it looks to be though, I can see "pairs" of similar parts round about. Without pulling it apart you can do that by playing a CD at LOW volume and touch pin's 2 and 3 alternately with a metallic object eg screwdriver. One channel should click or buzz. Pins 5 and 6 for other channel.
If it does I would try a TL072 OpAmp ( or even a TL082 - same but slightly higher noise figure - you almost certainly wouldn't hear the difference here ) from Maplin. Sonically they are excellent -- yes there are better but the TL072 is ideal for this and costs around £0.60 or so. Should be a noticeable improvement. You can always fit an 8 DIL socket so you can try others easily as well.
Edit - No idea what you should listen to as replacement 🙂 A lot depends on the ability of your system and what your expectations are. Cambridge stuff gets good reviews at the price.
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