😛 Dave, it´s what we keep explaining and only get puzzled looks...any clever bastid can measure any requested Very Important Numbers out of any box - but having something that punches instead of yawning - 
Depends when the CHRs were made. The new ones are selling here for the same as EL70.
I'd say equal quality, just different. I like the EL70 better than CHR Mk1, i'll let you know about Mk 2. EL70 being about 3 dB more efficient, with same power handling will get you a bit more level.
dave
well, wouldn't that look like **** with such a metal-strap-band-thing?
Why the boxes would be separated? When moving them, if i want to use only the satelites later on, sell the satelites or the subs?
Being able to separate them is important.
Edit: Btw which is best, CHR-70 or EL70?
Why the boxes would be separated? When moving them, if i want to use only the satelites later on, sell the satelites or the subs?
Being able to separate them is important.
Edit: Btw which is best, CHR-70 or EL70?
They are both good. Just different.
I prefer EL70 to CHR70 Mk 1. Mk2s are on the break in bench. I think for you application, the pluses of the EL70 will rule the day.
dave
Knullrufs, separate boxes - . Apart from easier to move, the bass driver not shaking the fullrange all over the place...small difference, measured in not even millimeters, but a difference when listening.
😀 Ask your best physics professor about a German named Doppler - he´ll tell you about phase shifts.
. Apart from easier to move, the bass driver not shaking the fullrange all over the place...small difference, measured in not even millimeters, but a difference when listening.😀 Ask your best physics professor about a German named Doppler - he´ll tell you about phase shifts.
Dave,
"And it makes upgrading easier."
Which, of course, translates as "as soon as we have it we´ll tell"😀
"And it makes upgrading easier."
Which, of course, translates as "as soon as we have it we´ll tell"😀
I guess I wasn't clear as to the "why would the boxes be separated?"
Aside from discussions over the "absolute" merits of physically separate enclosures for each pass band/driver vs isolated compartments within a single cabinet, the former certainly have practical advantages of moving and upgrading etc.
My real question probably should have been - "why would that (stains from Blu-Tak/ putty) be a problem?"
Except for only the short periods of time during which the system might be in transit or flux, the points of contact at which adhesive putty would be used would not be visible. And with any type of durable finish top coat, any residue from the particular type of Blu-Tak / hobby putty I've used should easily be removable. Some of the more audiophile approved spikes/cones etc that provide "secure and structural (de)coupling" 😉 would leave a definite and far more difficult to repair indentation on the contact surface.
As to metal brackets / fixing plates, etc.; while I don't normally spend that much time looking at the back-side of my speaker system, with appropriate finishing they could certainly be disguised or accented .
Re the comment about price/quality - that was in regards to the implication that there is always a linear correlation between the two. As I badly punned earlier - it ain't necessarily so.
In any case, I think that Rullknufs is a ways yet from his final decisions, and must be getting a bit confounded by the cacophony of well intentioned and contradictory advice at the various forums he's visiting.
Aside from discussions over the "absolute" merits of physically separate enclosures for each pass band/driver vs isolated compartments within a single cabinet, the former certainly have practical advantages of moving and upgrading etc.
My real question probably should have been - "why would that (stains from Blu-Tak/ putty) be a problem?"
Except for only the short periods of time during which the system might be in transit or flux, the points of contact at which adhesive putty would be used would not be visible. And with any type of durable finish top coat, any residue from the particular type of Blu-Tak / hobby putty I've used should easily be removable. Some of the more audiophile approved spikes/cones etc that provide "secure and structural (de)coupling" 😉 would leave a definite and far more difficult to repair indentation on the contact surface.
As to metal brackets / fixing plates, etc.; while I don't normally spend that much time looking at the back-side of my speaker system, with appropriate finishing they could certainly be disguised or accented .
Re the comment about price/quality - that was in regards to the implication that there is always a linear correlation between the two. As I badly punned earlier - it ain't necessarily so.
In any case, I think that Rullknufs is a ways yet from his final decisions, and must be getting a bit confounded by the cacophony of well intentioned and contradictory advice at the various forums he's visiting.
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So, the stains left by the blu-tak is relatively easy to remove? Well, i know they wont be visible as long as i have a speaker on top, but if i don't have they will be visible.
Do i have to get the original Blu-Tack från Bostik or can i go with like any Blu-Tack (häftmassa)?
Well, I think it is a trade mark name, but as no doubt our friend Wikipedia would suggest, there are numerous similar products available internationally.
I don't know, i usually use felt pads, and have only tried the brand name blu-tak. I have tried duct-seal, works as well, but will stain.
dave
dave
Now i think of mailing the places i will buy the stuff from and tell them to bring it home.
2 CSS EL70
1 sheet of 15mm ply (or should i go with 18?)
2 CSS EL70
1 sheet of 15mm ply (or should i go with 18?)
Okay, thanks.
Is it possible to get a cutsheet? I guess this can be fit on a smaller sheet than 1250x2500.
In that case it would be cheaper for me, and for the bassmodules i will probably be using 18mm and not 15mm.
And, can i see any finished ones somewhere?
Is it possible to get a cutsheet? I guess this can be fit on a smaller sheet than 1250x2500.
In that case it would be cheaper for me, and for the bassmodules i will probably be using 18mm and not 15mm.
And, can i see any finished ones somewhere?
If i get a cutsheet i will buy a 12mm particle board and build a box and see if it's easy or not. It will only cost like 13-14$ so i think it's definately worth it!
IINM, there are actually 2 boxes for the EL70 that could be confused:
what we'd call the "prime size" Mar-Kel70 (i.e. 3 layered side panels with integral slot ports) - not a particularly easy or quick build
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/downloads/Mar-Kel70-1v01f-map-110410.pdf
and the smaller "milli" sized mMar-Kel70
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/downloads/mMar-Kel70-1v0-map-231009.pdf
which is a pretty darned easy build - although it can get tricky if you forget the wall padding before attaching the final side.