Hello all,
Long time member but it's been years since I've logged in.
Anyway, I've just got a pair of Markaudio MAOP 11.2 and they are burning in now on my bench with music and volume as recommended by the manufacturer. This is my first pair of Markaudio drivers so I have no experience with the brand. As per the title, do we generally follow the parameters that is given or the ones published in their product page? My units have higher Fs than most I've seen posted here and compared to the factory. Most of you have ones that are close to the published factory specs. Mine has a higher Fs (53 Hz vs 42-ish), higher Qts (0.34 vs 0.29-0.3). Modelling off the factory specs with a box designed for mine shows quite a different response.
So, which do you guys usually go with? My initial guess, the ones I got. I doubt my units will change that drastically towards the factory average.
Apologies in advance if this has been discussed before. I've first tried a search but didn't find anything that helps.
Long time member but it's been years since I've logged in.
Anyway, I've just got a pair of Markaudio MAOP 11.2 and they are burning in now on my bench with music and volume as recommended by the manufacturer. This is my first pair of Markaudio drivers so I have no experience with the brand. As per the title, do we generally follow the parameters that is given or the ones published in their product page? My units have higher Fs than most I've seen posted here and compared to the factory. Most of you have ones that are close to the published factory specs. Mine has a higher Fs (53 Hz vs 42-ish), higher Qts (0.34 vs 0.29-0.3). Modelling off the factory specs with a box designed for mine shows quite a different response.
So, which do you guys usually go with? My initial guess, the ones I got. I doubt my units will change that drastically towards the factory average.
Apologies in advance if this has been discussed before. I've first tried a search but didn't find anything that helps.
You live in a pretty warm climate, so set them outdoors on something that holds heat (concrete walkway in my case) and let Mother Nature loosen them up, turning them over before they sag too much, i.e. VC getting 'cocked' in the gap and pretty sure they'll loosen up a bunch and while still heated up, do a cool down using the manufacture's burn in.
Use the ones provided with the drivers: they are the measured values for those specific units measured in their anechoic chamber, although you'll get variations from different measurement techniques (particularly voltage drive level), and even variations in local climatic conditions. We see shifts in data regularly with the same unit, on the same hardware, in the same position on a day-to-day basis because of that -not vast, but it's there, so we have to be a mite careful when creating the data sheets to ensure we measure over a modest period & then select a good mean of the batch and conditions. The values published for the MAOP series are simply meant as an example rather than for general application.
I've never read about this method, and I am hesitant to try. I don't have anywhere safe to do that nor is it "warm". It's properly hot and humid coming off the monsoon season. I'm not in any hurry to get them settled anyway. I'm actually a burn-in sceptic, but since this is from a manufacturer I've never tried and it's a pretty unique design I'll give it a chance. So, I'll trust his recommendations for now.
Thanks Scott. The specs I got is actually just right for how I want the box to be. The factory specs seem a bit peaky for it. I'm targeting a modest F3 of 60-ish Hz and as compact as it could be.
Mine too actually, reaching cooking oven hot in the Summertime. FWIW per this, if Fs is < +/- 15% right out of the box it's good enough for me.