I actually built a small practice bass cab for my bassist using a regular 8" woofer (available by the dozen) and a horn tweeter (bass overtones go upto 10-12 KHz if you're even sliding , fretless or not).
To make a long story short, it isn't used anymore. The bass is extremely muddy and doesn't blend with the music. We found a small 8" guitar practice amplifier sounded better, even if we blew out the speakers every month due to over-excursion.
It's not just about the 'bass', by the time you get the output level upto where you need it to be able to keep up with a band, woofer is distorting (we generate a lot of sound from a drum kit) and this is with a woofer that has output to 2 KHz at least.
Also that cab amped very badly. Though we were eventually DI'ing the bass, regular amps worked better than this woof+tweet combo, plus you got lots of different tone combos by moving things around.
As in everything else, there's no better way to find out than to try, but IME music creation and music reproduction have slightly different goals, and one goal of music creation is to find and hopefully create tones, not just play notes from a sheet. Which is the one single reason why I would choose a paper edge, cranky speaker driver to a sub driver.
To make a long story short, it isn't used anymore. The bass is extremely muddy and doesn't blend with the music. We found a small 8" guitar practice amplifier sounded better, even if we blew out the speakers every month due to over-excursion.
It's not just about the 'bass', by the time you get the output level upto where you need it to be able to keep up with a band, woofer is distorting (we generate a lot of sound from a drum kit) and this is with a woofer that has output to 2 KHz at least.
Also that cab amped very badly. Though we were eventually DI'ing the bass, regular amps worked better than this woof+tweet combo, plus you got lots of different tone combos by moving things around.
As in everything else, there's no better way to find out than to try, but IME music creation and music reproduction have slightly different goals, and one goal of music creation is to find and hopefully create tones, not just play notes from a sheet. Which is the one single reason why I would choose a paper edge, cranky speaker driver to a sub driver.
Zombie thread, I know. Sorry. I've had the Moskowitz cab for ages and ages. I burned out the original woofer a long time ago. I've had an Eminince Legend BP-102-4 (four ohm) driver in there for a long, long time and it has been doing a very, very good job for me. The F3 models to 41 Hz rather than the original 31 Hz, but I think the replacement is more robust than the original. I'm quite happy with it.
For this guy, I would recommend lightweight Neodymium-magnet drivers. If you like the sound, the aluminum-cone or partially-aluminum cone of the Hartke drivers is something uniquely special, and you will hate it or love it. A 2-15 cabinet with Hartke lightweight neodymium drivers is very lightweight and convenient, yet would have a lot more bass output than two 10" drivers. But the sound, and the choice, is up to you.
Hi,
Just made a 10" bass reflex +2,5" closed cab. 10" is a +/-13mm xmax sub +/-6db flat from 45 to 10khz. Passive crossover @880hz and eq for flatter response around 1-5khz and lower excursion for the 2.5". The speakers are SW.STX.10.2.500.8.F.A.FC.X - G?o?niki najtaniej,kolumny,ko?cówka mocy,kino domowe,subwoofer,samochodowe,zestawy,centralny,efektowy,driver,speakon,estradowe,hifi,wzmacniacz and sica . Final cab easily handle a aguilar tone hammer 500 at full volume clipping.
Just made a 10" bass reflex +2,5" closed cab. 10" is a +/-13mm xmax sub +/-6db flat from 45 to 10khz. Passive crossover @880hz and eq for flatter response around 1-5khz and lower excursion for the 2.5". The speakers are SW.STX.10.2.500.8.F.A.FC.X - G?o?niki najtaniej,kolumny,ko?cówka mocy,kino domowe,subwoofer,samochodowe,zestawy,centralny,efektowy,driver,speakon,estradowe,hifi,wzmacniacz and sica . Final cab easily handle a aguilar tone hammer 500 at full volume clipping.
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