Hello!
I find it somewhat weird that we're supposed to switch both active and neutral, because if the electrician botched the hot and cold connection on the wall-socket, only the neutral would be switched, but then only one (hot if everything's set up correctly) is secured by a fuse...
Opinions?
thank you!
d.)
I find it somewhat weird that we're supposed to switch both active and neutral, because if the electrician botched the hot and cold connection on the wall-socket, only the neutral would be switched, but then only one (hot if everything's set up correctly) is secured by a fuse...
Opinions?
thank you!
d.)
Switching is to both poles; live and neutral, to isolate the circuits after the switch.
No other reason.
Never use two fuses, especially, if the neutral fuse blows, your circuits are all live!
No other reason.
Never use two fuses, especially, if the neutral fuse blows, your circuits are all live!
In the UK, double pole switching was common on appliances but not any more.
Very few modern electronic devices have a power switch at all, always in standby unless you unplug (double pole) or switch (single pole) at the wall socket.
Very few modern electronic devices have a power switch at all, always in standby unless you unplug (double pole) or switch (single pole) at the wall socket.
Thank you, JonSnell
This was where I started: My guess was that the probability of the neutral fuse blowing before the hot one does would be as small as the probability that the electrician didn‘t work thoroughly and mixed up neutral/hot.
I am aware that we shouldn‘t work with guesses and estimates, but this leaves me in the rain. I‘ll just follow the guidelines (switch both, fuse hot) with an afterthought...