Wow shipping is more than the cost of the preamp given I am in the USA, but am going to buy it.
EDIT:
Nevermind, I cannot use Paypal and that's the only payment method accepted.
So I'll need something else, however I do like the board and some of their other stuff I looked at.
EDIT:
Nevermind, I cannot use Paypal and that's the only payment method accepted.
So I'll need something else, however I do like the board and some of their other stuff I looked at.
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Is there no way you can come up with a +/-12V DC supply? Rod Elliott's ESP Project 06 preamp is really good, and inexpensive. I put one together and am very pleased with it. But it does require a bi-polar PSU. (https://sound-au.com/project06.htm)
There is a matching PSU kit (w/ PCB) that's not expensive (https://sound-au.com/project05-mini.htm). Using 7812 and 7912 regulator ICs, you can use it to make a +/-12V DC supply from 12V AC.
There's also a rumble filter PCB, https://sound-au.com/project99.htm.
These are proven designs that have held up under scrutiny. Rod Elliott knows his stuff.
There is a matching PSU kit (w/ PCB) that's not expensive (https://sound-au.com/project05-mini.htm). Using 7812 and 7912 regulator ICs, you can use it to make a +/-12V DC supply from 12V AC.
There's also a rumble filter PCB, https://sound-au.com/project99.htm.
These are proven designs that have held up under scrutiny. Rod Elliott knows his stuff.
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If you're neat and careful you can build a preamp on perfboard, as in this project -- https://diyaudioprojects.com/Chip/Opamp-Phono-Preamp/
Is it still possible to buy those boards?
If so that's what I'll do.
I've got about 19Vac on the input so I'll make sure the main filter caps are 25 or 35 volt rated parts.
If the preamp board is to large to fit where the existing board is I'll just use some decent shielded tonearm wire to where the board can sit in the bottom of the case like the speed control board does and I might then use something to connect the preamp and power supply boards together.
If i like the preamp good enough I might build a second one for a Sansui SR-2050C record player I have.
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It looks like Mr. Elliott just updated his purchase info page (https://sound-au.com/purchase.htm). He takes PayPal only. Shipping is $20 USD.
ESP is in Australia, but that wasn't a problem for me when I bought a few boards from Rod a couple of years ago. My order did take three weeks to get to me, though. It spent about a week in customs, but I didn't end up owing anything.
With 19V AC available, I would definitely use 7815 and 7915 regulator ICs to get +/-15V DC. More headroom that way, which can only help.
The ESP Project 06 audio PCB is tiny -- 3 in. x 1.5 in. and only 1 in. tall, even with oversized poly film output caps. You could probably find a little aluminum enclosure for shielding, but I used mine without an enclosure for a while and it did not pick up enough noise to be audible.
If you don't have a PSU built already, the Project 05-Mini looks good. https://sound-au.com/project05-mini.htm
ESP is in Australia, but that wasn't a problem for me when I bought a few boards from Rod a couple of years ago. My order did take three weeks to get to me, though. It spent about a week in customs, but I didn't end up owing anything.
With 19V AC available, I would definitely use 7815 and 7915 regulator ICs to get +/-15V DC. More headroom that way, which can only help.
The ESP Project 06 audio PCB is tiny -- 3 in. x 1.5 in. and only 1 in. tall, even with oversized poly film output caps. You could probably find a little aluminum enclosure for shielding, but I used mine without an enclosure for a while and it did not pick up enough noise to be audible.
If you don't have a PSU built already, the Project 05-Mini looks good. https://sound-au.com/project05-mini.htm
PayPal only is a problem as PayPal now wants one to register for an account if they don't have one when previously one could pay by card without creating an account.
I'd definitely get the power supply board as well.
I'll figure out a way to do it. Maybe a friend who has PayPal could order it for me if I give them the money.
I see that he also has a two way stereo three way mono crossover kit as well.
Might look into that for another project.
I'd definitely get the power supply board as well.
I'll figure out a way to do it. Maybe a friend who has PayPal could order it for me if I give them the money.
I see that he also has a two way stereo three way mono crossover kit as well.
Might look into that for another project.
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Would that power supply with muting circuit also work for a 24dB/octave two way active crossover I built several years ago that causes a pop in the speakers after about 9 seconds as the power supplies drain down?
Is this a good preamp that I can remove the board from and install into the RCA 45 player?
https://www.amazon.com/Fosi-Audio-Turntable-Phonograph-Preamplifier/dp/B08TLRPMDC
I'm thinking it is a single supply given it uses a +12Vdc supply.
There any schematic of it available for me to look at?
That said does it really matter if the preamp is single or dual supply so long as the RIAA EQ is accurate?
The main thing I question is the headphone out with no level control.
https://www.amazon.com/Fosi-Audio-Turntable-Phonograph-Preamplifier/dp/B08TLRPMDC
I'm thinking it is a single supply given it uses a +12Vdc supply.
There any schematic of it available for me to look at?
That said does it really matter if the preamp is single or dual supply so long as the RIAA EQ is accurate?
The main thing I question is the headphone out with no level control.
I know this one would be good, however it won't be internal to the record player.
https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Phono-Preamp-Cartridges-Black/dp/B09S5H9MP6
https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Phono-Preamp-Cartridges-Black/dp/B09S5H9MP6
Honestly, unless there's a better phono preamp circuit for less that sounds better and is as or more adjustable, I may just go with the Schiit.
This isn't something I need to play around with as I'd likely spend as much as the Schiit trying different preamp circuits. Plus if I wanted to add a record player for my albums I'll already have a preamp ready to go.
As can be seen I tend to flip-flop around sometimes as I try to balance my wants with my needs with what works best.
This isn't something I need to play around with as I'd likely spend as much as the Schiit trying different preamp circuits. Plus if I wanted to add a record player for my albums I'll already have a preamp ready to go.
As can be seen I tend to flip-flop around sometimes as I try to balance my wants with my needs with what works best.
My favourite circuit for this task (single supply MM) would be build around a Signetics NE542N or NS LM387N (up to20 V supply) or an LM387AN (up to 27 V supply). Done it several times in the last four decades without any complaints.
Well I had some extra money this paycheck so I went ahead and ordered the Schiit.
Found some shielded tonearm wire.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3638662567...XG12ZG&hash=item54b81e7559:g:hUEAAOSw3MhioMUf
The long length means I can just solder it straight to the RCA jacks I mounted in the case of the 45 player.
Found some shielded tonearm wire.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3638662567...XG12ZG&hash=item54b81e7559:g:hUEAAOSw3MhioMUf
The long length means I can just solder it straight to the RCA jacks I mounted in the case of the 45 player.
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That cable will totally muck up the tone arm, if it will even fit.
This Connex 36 gauge wire is more like it.
https://partsconnexion.com/collections/tonearm-bulk-wire?sort_by=price-ascending
This Connex 36 gauge wire is more like it.
https://partsconnexion.com/collections/tonearm-bulk-wire?sort_by=price-ascending
The photos make the wire look much bigger than it really is.
That said the tonearm is plastic so I've got to use shielded tonearm wire.
That said the tonearm is plastic so I've got to use shielded tonearm wire.
Ah, that's an issue I wasn't expecting - still a cable will be many times stiffer than individual wires, unless a loose braid can be used for the handover from arm to deck?
I can only assume that the cable would work properly given it is being sold as tonearm cable and has the cartridge connectors on it.
That said when I get it I'll see how flexible it is.
I would love it if someone would make a metal tonearm with proper counterweight for the 45 player. I've often thought of modifying mine to where a solenoid does what the trip lever does on the tonearm and have the tonearm operate a reed switch. I could then use a much lighter tracking force.
That said when I get it I'll see how flexible it is.
I would love it if someone would make a metal tonearm with proper counterweight for the 45 player. I've often thought of modifying mine to where a solenoid does what the trip lever does on the tonearm and have the tonearm operate a reed switch. I could then use a much lighter tracking force.