Do you have any thoughts about changing factory binding posts?
In this case to pure copper or mostly copper, upper 90%.
Besides the new potential parts I chose looking way nicer, the original parts contain mostly brass in them. Maybe I opened a proverbial can of worms upgrading all of my stereo wire and spades to parts containing a high percentage of copper and silver. If there is an inferior link in my speaker connection chain it would be the factory posts.
Fortunately I'm not utilizing all 4 posts, the WTB or Cardas aren't exactly inexpensive.
In this case to pure copper or mostly copper, upper 90%.
Besides the new potential parts I chose looking way nicer, the original parts contain mostly brass in them. Maybe I opened a proverbial can of worms upgrading all of my stereo wire and spades to parts containing a high percentage of copper and silver. If there is an inferior link in my speaker connection chain it would be the factory posts.
Fortunately I'm not utilizing all 4 posts, the WTB or Cardas aren't exactly inexpensive.
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Why ? The stock ones at least can be torqued down with a socket and all you can do with the
others is hand tightening
Which style will produce the best connection ?
others is hand tightening
Which style will produce the best connection ?
I am a huge fan to Cardas 5 way binding post.
Low cost, build quality, longevity, neutrality.
They sound better than many I have used.
I am "done with" the Nylon "nut" like on the Keystone and Pomonas.
Over time they do not wear well, but only cost 10-15 a pair.
Improvement and keeping on a tight budget limits you options
and the possible "net improvement'
Low cost, build quality, longevity, neutrality.
They sound better than many I have used.
I am "done with" the Nylon "nut" like on the Keystone and Pomonas.
Over time they do not wear well, but only cost 10-15 a pair.
Improvement and keeping on a tight budget limits you options
and the possible "net improvement'
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They dont require much force in order to tighten those. I cinch the ones on my speakers down with my forefinger and thumb. I almost need pliers when I won't to open them back up later.
Finely threaded and with close tolerances they dont need as much force to close as cheap ones do. The contact surfaces are also machined to bite and stay tight.
I had posts that I did use pliers to tighten them, and they still worked lose.
The ones on my amp are a lot better than those crap.
But there is room to improve. That wasn't in question on my part. But I just answered my own question. They will make speaker swaps and general tweaking more fun (fewer headaches) and look good. I will make a note for a pair. 🙂.
As for any improvement on SQ. I'll just have to wait and see.
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Cardas hardware
If you decide on using these I have some tips on installing and (safely) soldering the internal wiring to them. They will absorb a lot of heat from the soldering iron, possibly melting certain parts [common to many aftermarket options]
I think the biggest challenge(s) on replacing (any) 5-way BP, is enlarging the holes in the chassis and maintaining the 3/4" spacing to "conform" to the black block holder (as shown, in this case) I use a rat tail file, rather than a drill or rasp... as it is easy for the center spacing to "wander" or become problematic.
Cardas makes / sells these Spacer(s) if the black block won't fit or if the binding post center is greater than 3/4"
Cardas Connector CCBP-S Binding Post Unplated Copper, from Parts Connexion. These .are. so awesome, silly as it may sound, just holding them in you hand... they are substantial and beautifully finished. They are 'standard issue' on my Atma-Sphere amps. One pair (my M60s) are 20 years old, these look exactly the same way as the day I bought them.
If you decide on using these I have some tips on installing and (safely) soldering the internal wiring to them. They will absorb a lot of heat from the soldering iron, possibly melting certain parts [common to many aftermarket options]
I think the biggest challenge(s) on replacing (any) 5-way BP, is enlarging the holes in the chassis and maintaining the 3/4" spacing to "conform" to the black block holder (as shown, in this case) I use a rat tail file, rather than a drill or rasp... as it is easy for the center spacing to "wander" or become problematic.
Cardas makes / sells these Spacer(s) if the black block won't fit or if the binding post center is greater than 3/4"
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A pair of these in one of my amps looks great while another pair goes black all the time. Perhaps i use something inappropriate to clean it.
Apart from that excellent, unlike the one knob wonders.
Both of them became dark immediately when I solder the wire into them. I was a bit angry about it. But the rhodium coated remains perfect for long time...
Sajti