@Salar, off the top of my head:
1) better make sure it's an oil that won't attack/embrittle plastic, magnet wire or any other components.
2) make sure it's non-conductive, which actually isn't a given when dealing with thin layers.
3) it would likely clean out some debris, and equally redistribute some all around the inside.
4) upside down on Kleenex will absorb some or most but plenty will be left all over in nooks and crannies, and surface tension will likely ensure a decent amount will remain until it will likely redistribute.
There is such a thing as too much of a good thing...
I agree, in the case of cdp's, tape decks, turntables etc., grease for slow moving parts and oil for bearings. Besides, grease smeared on the bushing and shaft won't significantly wick/seep/migrate into the bushing due to viscosity. An exception might be if the bushing was removed from the shaft but in that case, the best approach would be to vacuum impregnate oil into the bushing.
1) better make sure it's an oil that won't attack/embrittle plastic, magnet wire or any other components.
2) make sure it's non-conductive, which actually isn't a given when dealing with thin layers.
3) it would likely clean out some debris, and equally redistribute some all around the inside.
4) upside down on Kleenex will absorb some or most but plenty will be left all over in nooks and crannies, and surface tension will likely ensure a decent amount will remain until it will likely redistribute.
There is such a thing as too much of a good thing...
I agree, in the case of cdp's, tape decks, turntables etc., grease for slow moving parts and oil for bearings. Besides, grease smeared on the bushing and shaft won't significantly wick/seep/migrate into the bushing due to viscosity. An exception might be if the bushing was removed from the shaft but in that case, the best approach would be to vacuum impregnate oil into the bushing.
I did oil both the top bearing of the spindle motor and both bearings of the swinger.
I had a syringe oiler that I could just barely squeeze between the top of the motor chassis and the bottom of the spindle, right up to the motor shaft.
I used plain 3-in-1 machine oil.
I moved/spun the components with my fingers to work the lube in. Then I played a few CDs.
I did a finger feel test for "gauging" resistance and free-spin of swinger and spindle -- before and after. I felt/saw absolutely no difference after the oil. For example, "flicking" the spindle to spin with my thumb and forefinger produced the same number of "inertia rotations".
The exercise was fun ... but I don't think lubing was really needed.
I had a syringe oiler that I could just barely squeeze between the top of the motor chassis and the bottom of the spindle, right up to the motor shaft.
I used plain 3-in-1 machine oil.
I moved/spun the components with my fingers to work the lube in. Then I played a few CDs.
I did a finger feel test for "gauging" resistance and free-spin of swinger and spindle -- before and after. I felt/saw absolutely no difference after the oil. For example, "flicking" the spindle to spin with my thumb and forefinger produced the same number of "inertia rotations".
The exercise was fun ... but I don't think lubing was really needed.
Those small motors sometimes have issues with the commutator brushes inside.
I disconnect them and run DC of a couple of volts through them in both directions for a minute, to scour and clean the carbon off the brushes and commutators.
And a drop of oil helps maintain free rotation too.
The sintered bushing of these motors are factory doped with solid lubricant and will last the entire life of this motor, any contamination from another lubricant can dilute it and destroy its durability.
Some motors where the bearing is worn out, I rotate the whole motor 90 Deg or 120Deg to get less "play". then you can run it for several more years.
actually this shall be done in prevention on apparatus that you care of.
actually this shall be done in prevention on apparatus that you care of.
Nah, just replace the motor, once the bearings are worn, it compromises performance regardless if it runs.
Thanks, but this is understood anyway.
Besides I disassembled some brushless
disc motors. Did clean the bronce bearings using the trick of applying negative pressure in a syringe;
first with acetone to clean the bronce bearing, then with suitable oil to get the air out of the bearing.
Don´t remember the name but it is an oil for bearings.
Of course you can´t do that with a brushed toy motor…
Applying just a drop with a needle next to the shaft is understood as well.
But the bottom bearing is out of reach… and carries the weight… and collects the dirt...
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"bronze bearings are porous and embedded with graphite for continuous lubrication"
You can lubrify them with everything, including water, but the inside plastic parts chemical resistance is unknown.
sapphire bushings (bearings)
I wonder if the spindle motors are similar to HDD motors, that use sapphire bushings (bearings)? So, essentially "frictionless" mating surfaces.
Or, maybe ceramic bushings (bearings)?
I wonder if the spindle motors are similar to HDD motors, that use sapphire bushings (bearings)? So, essentially "frictionless" mating surfaces.
Or, maybe ceramic bushings (bearings)?
I'll put your "wondering" to rest and tell you that those little CD platter motors are just common miniature DC motors.
Yeah ...
If you get the tolerances real tight, and mating surfaces tough (inert) and smooth, the air-drag (vortex) helps with the bearing/bushing effect. Like the HDD heads that rely on vortex of the spinning platter to suspend them. Like air-hockey table.
The only real problem is to keep the lubricant film alive and there are plenty of technical solutions adapted to each mechanical system, there is nothing else than expertise to explore, the heads arm of a HDD is rotating on a single steel dry ball rearing.
I think you misunderstood. I'm not referring to the head-arm mounting pivot, but to the head itself.
The pickup heads ride (pushed away from platter) on a cushion of air that is created by the fast-spinning platter.
This happens even for HDDs that are mounted vertically (as many are in PCs).
I have recently restored two Sony MHC series CD players and in order to lubricate the motor I used paper to get a drop between the motor & the spindle. Soak the paper (make some sort of triangle or tip) then just touch the paper with the shaft. I used "fine" oil. I believe it's sewing oil.
No spindle motor since the introduction of the CD worked with anything other
than bronce bearings, regardless if it was a simple dc motor or a brushless one... They simply run quiet..