I was looking at the $60~70 Dayton small DSP meant for just a sub. I'm curious how much can be done with it or if it's very simple. I wonder if it's better than an $85 MiniDSP 2x4 (non-HD)? I don't mind adding things to the system. This is just one system in one room, as I have many like everyone else does probably. I feed it from a USB DAC so its not a pure analog system in a total sense so it's not like I'm trying to keep it "pure" or something.
Very best,
The Dayton Audio DSP-L has a significant amount of features. 25 bands of EQ (more than enough). x-over and, and this is very good for a DSP geared towards subwoofer operation, compressor/limiting and dynamic bass control. What I don't like about it is the form factor, e.g. the use of mini-headphone jacks rather than RCA terminals for input/output.
Hrm,
I will have plenty of MDF so I could make both boxes for fun. I could order another driver too, they're cheap ($60). Might do that after I make the first one.
For a sealed option, I was modeling something like this maybe (same driver, same distance, 100 watts, but 250 watts max, but likely use 60~100 watts in reality).
Enclosure is sealed, 16" x 16" x 16.85" little cube like thing, 1.8 cubic feet internet net. Will fit anywhere in my rooms and office no problem.
For excursion, it hits it pretty fast in a larger box near 20hz, but if I use a highpass filter around 13hz, it looks like I can avoid excursion to 20hz even at 250 watts.
And so here's the final SPL graph, but with 100 watts at 3 feet distance
I might just let it be what it is, or play a little with DSP to boost output closer to 20~25hz range, doesn't need to be flat with 30hz to 80hz, but getting it closer to 95db would be nice. Of course with DSP, I might just EQ down the 30hz~80hz range to be more in line with 20hz range instead of boosting and then just increase overall power up to 250 watts if needed (shouldn't be needed, I don't listen to 105db).
Very best,
I will have plenty of MDF so I could make both boxes for fun. I could order another driver too, they're cheap ($60). Might do that after I make the first one.
For a sealed option, I was modeling something like this maybe (same driver, same distance, 100 watts, but 250 watts max, but likely use 60~100 watts in reality).
Enclosure is sealed, 16" x 16" x 16.85" little cube like thing, 1.8 cubic feet internet net. Will fit anywhere in my rooms and office no problem.
For excursion, it hits it pretty fast in a larger box near 20hz, but if I use a highpass filter around 13hz, it looks like I can avoid excursion to 20hz even at 250 watts.
And so here's the final SPL graph, but with 100 watts at 3 feet distance
I might just let it be what it is, or play a little with DSP to boost output closer to 20~25hz range, doesn't need to be flat with 30hz to 80hz, but getting it closer to 95db would be nice. Of course with DSP, I might just EQ down the 30hz~80hz range to be more in line with 20hz range instead of boosting and then just increase overall power up to 250 watts if needed (shouldn't be needed, I don't listen to 105db).
Very best,
Don't worry too much about exceeding Xmax at low frequencies. WinISD and similar programs assume excursion remains linear above Xmax and the excursion curves therefore look a bit scary. What actually happens is that BL drops and the cone's suspension starts to stiffen up, so the actual excursion above Xmax when the driver is hit with a large signal doesn't look anything like the software says it would look like.
As to what it would actually look like, that depends on the driver's suspension.
As to what it would actually look like, that depends on the driver's suspension.
Sounds good thanks; I was reading that it's mostly just distortion increasing but probably won't notice it audibly at these lower frequencies. More important would be the not go past xmech, but I'm not sure how I'd ever even find out what that value is. So I've been modeling and just keeping excursion close as a practice and can exceed it a little but don't want to push hard on such a cheap driver.
Very best,