Blue wire goes to terminal 1.
Orange wire goes to terminal 3
Sky blue wire goes to terminal 2 (the centre terminal)
To bypass the L pad control, you would:
You will be left with no attenuation i.e. the midrange will be at its loudest setting.
- Disconnect the blue wire from terminal 1 (and insulate its bare end).
- Leave the orange and sky blue wires in place, but connect a jumper (shorting) wire between terminal 3 and terminal 2.
Thanks to everyone.
Sorry for disappearing.
Time spent with elderly parent.
Galu, I think you may have answered the issue.
I took a photo before removing the wires from the L pad.
The blue wire was on an outer terminal.
I'll reassemble with as per your list and re test (tomorrow).
Now 1.32am and way past my bedtime.
Will report back.
C
Only the issue of how to bypass the L pad of course! 😱Galu, I think you may have answered the issue.
Credit for the competent troubleshooting lies elsewhere.
I jumped in because I know from our previous encounters that you value a straightforward description of what wire goes where! 😉
I wanted to thank everyone for the great assistance.
I'm blown away by the great community here.
Great knowledge base and willingness to help.
To summarize I have now insulated one of the L Pad Attenuator wires which had a missing terminal boot. This may have contributed to the Midrange problem if it was shorting on the metal frame.
And since our last posts, I removed the L Pad in question, and carefully brightened up the terminals with 800 grit paper. I also twisted the Attenuator dial several times to overcome any possible corrosion in its internals.
After re assembly the Midrange is now fully functional.
I used old drivers I had lying around for purposes of a sound test to avoid the possibility of driver damage to the originals.
Thumbs up to all who helped.
cheers
Cliff 🙂
I'm blown away by the great community here.
Great knowledge base and willingness to help.
To summarize I have now insulated one of the L Pad Attenuator wires which had a missing terminal boot. This may have contributed to the Midrange problem if it was shorting on the metal frame.
And since our last posts, I removed the L Pad in question, and carefully brightened up the terminals with 800 grit paper. I also twisted the Attenuator dial several times to overcome any possible corrosion in its internals.
After re assembly the Midrange is now fully functional.
I used old drivers I had lying around for purposes of a sound test to avoid the possibility of driver damage to the originals.
Thumbs up to all who helped.
cheers
Cliff 🙂