Thank you.
I don't know if many people paint their speaker enclosures, but I was just wondering what is the best method.
Is it best to paint the whole enclosure once it is put together, or is it ok to paint the separate pieces before (I would find this easier).
Also, how many layers of PVA are necessary before applying the paint layers?
Is there any particular type of paint that bonds well without cracking?
I don't know if many people paint their speaker enclosures, but I was just wondering what is the best method.
Is it best to paint the whole enclosure once it is put together, or is it ok to paint the separate pieces before (I would find this easier).
Also, how many layers of PVA are necessary before applying the paint layers?
Is there any particular type of paint that bonds well without cracking?
Painting MDF has been a bit of a hot topic on here in recent months. Basically it comes down to what finish you are prepared to accept. Unless you put the effort in and use the right paints and glues then you will get joint lines showing.
I would not use PVA to seal although it is possible to use. You can get proper MDF primer from Rustins or Blackfriar.
I definitely would not paint a panel before assembly as the joints would look terrible as well as probably not bonding as well as they could and you have absolutely no room for adjustment or remedial work.
As for paint again it depends on what you want. I think you are building PA type speakers? Then you want something tough and durable. I have been looking at some rubberised paint specifically for this purpose for my own bass bin project.
edit: here is the thread where I was looking at what finishes were available to me.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=67004&highlight=
I would not use PVA to seal although it is possible to use. You can get proper MDF primer from Rustins or Blackfriar.
I definitely would not paint a panel before assembly as the joints would look terrible as well as probably not bonding as well as they could and you have absolutely no room for adjustment or remedial work.
As for paint again it depends on what you want. I think you are building PA type speakers? Then you want something tough and durable. I have been looking at some rubberised paint specifically for this purpose for my own bass bin project.
edit: here is the thread where I was looking at what finishes were available to me.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=67004&highlight=
When painting the MDF, its obviously not possible to paint every side at one time due to the fact that the enclsoure has to be layed down in order to dry (unless of course you have anti gravity in your house)
Is it possible to paint the majority of a side and then do the rest once it has dried.
Do you paint once the enclosure has been fully assembled, and what method do you use to ensure that no paint or solvents get on the loudspeaker, terminals or other exposed electronics?
Is it possible to paint the majority of a side and then do the rest once it has dried.
Do you paint once the enclosure has been fully assembled, and what method do you use to ensure that no paint or solvents get on the loudspeaker, terminals or other exposed electronics?
For the panel bracing, is it best for the battens to span the panel vertically or horizontally?
Will they need screwing to the panel or will glue and a couple of clamps do fine?
For the internal damping, is simple cotton wool ok? and if I didn't use damping and just left the walls as plain MDF, how would it effect the sound?
Can I use normal bolts for mounting the woofer?
Also, when mounting the woofer, because of the fact that it is rear mounted, it will be sitting on the rear of the enclsoure face, with the full thickness of the 18mm MDF in front of it. Is it necessary to sink it into the MDF by cutting a ring and removing some of the thickness?
Will they need screwing to the panel or will glue and a couple of clamps do fine?
For the internal damping, is simple cotton wool ok? and if I didn't use damping and just left the walls as plain MDF, how would it effect the sound?
Can I use normal bolts for mounting the woofer?
Also, when mounting the woofer, because of the fact that it is rear mounted, it will be sitting on the rear of the enclsoure face, with the full thickness of the 18mm MDF in front of it. Is it necessary to sink it into the MDF by cutting a ring and removing some of the thickness?
The battens I just put to cut the longest dimension of the panel. Clamping them will be fine with glue. You could just glue and panel pin them if you want or use glue and screws. It's just more work.
Problems with painting the enclosure is just one of the reasons why I never fit drivers from the inside. Same goes for terminals etc.
Cotton wool is not really ideal, you can get proper wadding. A cheap source for this is pillow stuffing.
For the woofer you can use screws but I prefer to use tee nuts and bolts.
If your worry about the woofer is that it will stick out so you want to inside mount it, why not just make another baffle with a hole a bit bigger than the driver. Then stick this on top of your normal baffle and it should give the effect of a flush mounted driver.
Problems with painting the enclosure is just one of the reasons why I never fit drivers from the inside. Same goes for terminals etc.
Cotton wool is not really ideal, you can get proper wadding. A cheap source for this is pillow stuffing.
For the woofer you can use screws but I prefer to use tee nuts and bolts.
If your worry about the woofer is that it will stick out so you want to inside mount it, why not just make another baffle with a hole a bit bigger than the driver. Then stick this on top of your normal baffle and it should give the effect of a flush mounted driver.
It has to be inside mounted due to the frame design. Does rear mounting affect the acoustics of the driver - I often hear people commenting on the fact that when a driver is not flush with the baffle then the sound quality is altered?
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