loudspeaker cabinets

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well see this is whats up i have built 2 sets of 2 way speakers and i want to built a new set of 3-ways. i was just wondering if all you ppl out there wanted to help me out i wanted plans and or websites for reallly any speakers i have been looking for plans and it just sucks maybe im not looking for the right thing but if you could do this for me it would be great. i would prefer something that has the side firing sub and 2 or 3 mids on the front but anything will so. size also does not matter and i would like to spend no more than $500 US.

thanks again
 
The Supreme by Mattias Sandgren is I think deserve the few extra $ to your budget.

If only I had a scanner 🙁 , I think the Sydwey is within your budget.


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speakers i would like to use

ok here they are i would like to use these speaker.
tweeter well im open to that idea so what do you guys think.
mid/s dont know how many mabye 2. i am open to sugestions on these. so really alll that i know i that i want to use these subs, do you think they will give enough bass.

sub i would like to set up a plate amp on the back of the speaker i have seen it done on these type of speakers i think that i would like to get the ULTIMATE PS10 10" PLATINUM SUBWOOFER from parts express think that would be ok but im totally open to any ideas for anything on this speaker i just want to make them but i dont know how to come up with the demensions for the speakers the last ones i did i just found some that a guy did online and copied it so you know.
www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...9&St3=42322327&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=16055&DID=7
that is the link to the sub

if that one will not put out enough bass then how bout the 12" version of it i dont know
 
back again

ok well i did some more reading and i see that the vas is the optimal enclosure size right??? well if i just take that number cant I just make a box that size and put the speaker in it and slap a plate amp on it and that be the bottom part of my speaker??? Then for the top part do you really do not even count the tweeter or it does not have a vas or does it either way its not that significant right?? Then for the mids would I add the two vas numbers and that would be the size of the box of all of this is correct then please let me know and if not correct me please well thanks for bearing with me and helping me out with these stupid questions, but hey we all need to learn somehow right???? Allot of question I know but this will be a lot of help thanks again.
 
Hello. I have had good results with Ultimate woofers. My 8" ones have a sheet enclosed in the box with the optimal range of box sizes given for sealed enclosures, the way to go. Just go by that. I prefer to go with the smallest size listed and then fill the inside with pillow polyester stuffing. Since each box has two woofers on opposite sides, you need to make the box with double the volume given for one. But your boxes have to be very stiff. I would like to tell you how I made my boxes, but the process is not patented, so I have to keep the it secret. 🙁 Then use active equalization and you can get very good response. You should get a parametric equalizer and then you can get flat uncolored response down to 30Hz. Also you would do well to use a separate low pass filter with about a 250hz cutoff point.

Vas is not necessarily the best box size, BTW. It depends on a lot of things.

One thing to be aware of with Ultimate. Make sure the flexible wires under the cone that lead to the voice coil are positioned to allow free and even movement of the cone to the maximum excursion points in and out. For the price, they do have good excursion capabilities.
 
a few more questions

hey subwo thanks for the info but im afraid i need more. well im not sure if you know what i want to do or if i did not state it well enough but i want to build one box for the woffer and one for the 2 mids along with the tweeter that will be ontop of the sub but all one cabinet . anyways if that is what you were picturing then here are my questions. first lets start with the sugestions you gave me. what do you mean by active equalization is that for the mids and just making the 2 cabinets the same size internally or something else??? then what is and how do i get a parametric equalizer?? and now new one that arose while doing some research if i use a plate amp for the subs then so i still need a X-over for the mids and tweeter if i connect it through the "high inputs" on the amp and then if i do how would i go about figuring out what X-over i need???? then the last one what would you sugest for mids and tweeters i have been looking around and i found these ones from parts express
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...&St3=42322327&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=121573&DID=7
a little pricey but if you know better that that would be awsome
i was also think what about using midwoofers instead of the mids or all three of them i really apreciate all this help thanks a bunch
 
Okay, I'm understanding what you are looking for now.

Perhaps something like the Now Hear This speakers? NHT

Alright, connection for the woofers: Receiver->equalizer->plate-amp. (Though, many plate-amps include a sub-boost EQ, you can tame it perfectly to co-act with your driver+box combination.)

Connection for the mid+tweets: You should use the speaker outputs on your receiver or amplifier. We can create a band-pass cross-over for the mid-range and the tweeter, these will be passive cross-over built from inductors and capacitors. We can calculate these ourselves or, use an online calculator. : x-over calc.

Now, onto, our building: Let's say that we like Vifa mid-drivers and also like soft-dome tweeters or ribbon tweeters. We plan on purchasing a mid-range driver, namely, the VIFA MG14WK09-08 for it's flat response from 100Hz.-10,000Hz. decent efficiency (87dB.) and Kevlar cone providing us with a stiff and quick driver. Looking at the tweeter section we see the VIFA DX25TG-05-04 with a flat response from 1,000Hz.-18,000Hz. There's a peak at 20khz., but that's fine because we have a tweeter that operates above 20khz...a super tweeter that will stir our emotions listening to any music. And, it's relatively cheap. I would cross-over the tweeter at 2,000Hz., attenuate it 6.5 dB. to match the mid-bass driver. For the MG14, I would stick a cap in front only for operation from 80 or 100Hz. and above, then, stick an inductor in to tell the MG14 to stop making sounds at 2,000Hz. Using butterworths a +3dB. lift may result so we may back of the 2khz. points a little, say 1900Hz. and 2100Hz.? Also, I'd stick the drivers onto a baffle, with no back. Correct, an open baffle, for optimal clarity and reproduction of music. That's that for me...what say you guys?
 
more ?s hehe

well i think i found out the speakers i want to use tell me what you think first one
GOLDWOOD GT-324 1" TITANIUM DOME TWEETER 3-7/8" ROUND
then for the mid which i might not need because the 7s go to 10K
GOLDWOOD GM-85/8 5" HD SEALED BACK MIDRANGE 8 OHM and the DAYTON 7" ALUMINUM CONE WOOFER that is what i want on the top part facing front then the ULTIMATE PS10 10" PLATINUM SUBWOOFER for the sub. i think i want some just like the ones like the NHT like bose(o) linked to. ok then on to the X over it is a three way now right??? then the sub will be separate from the other 4 speakers right and if so should it be vented or sealed.just want your input on the speakers and those questtions plz and if you think i should maybe change those speakers then just let me know. oh yeah i wanted to put 2 of those 7s in each cabinet along with one mid and one tweet :nod: thanks for all this help i want to buy the speakers here soon so let me know and i will start taking pics to show progress of OUR work lol and what is the diff. between active and passive xover and what do you think would be the best and how should i set it all up
 
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