Its pained me for the last couple of years or so, but Im completley confused at the sight of speaker specifications, so I wouldnt know if ones better than the other. Ive looked around at places like eBay and some local dealers, although havent come to a final conclusion. Im looking for a design targeted for deep bass, and very high Wattage handling as well. Im a bit tight on $$$ right now with about $300 and am wondering if theres a cheap(er) solution than buying a $1000 in-home design sub. Now I thought about taking Car Subs and sticking them in my room somewhere, although im clueless as to what will get the job done. Mainly for the reason of this post, id like to know if theres anyone willing to help 😀 😀 😀.
Oh, We shall have you hooked up in no time at all. Your $300 budget.... is that for sub and amp or just sub? Car subs, you dont need to play with. There are many many cheap drivers with spectacular bang for your buck performance including many drivers from adire and others.
new to diy audio?
k, just to give you the run down, high power handling doesnt mean loud, doesnt mean low, doesnt even mean clean or not clean.
Power is expensive, more expensive than drivers often, instead of getting an inefficient driver, that needs lots of power to get moving, get an efficient one, so that you can reach the same output as that 1000 wattRMS sub with 250(yeah its possable).
Some important info we need to know to get started!
1. what do you use sub for? movies? music? both? give us a ratio movies:music 30/70
2. What are you looking for? maximum boom and spl? low end extension? or fidelity and an even response?
3. HOW MUCH SPACE!
4. how big is the room this is going in?
Beat me to first reply bassawdyo!
k, just to give you the run down, high power handling doesnt mean loud, doesnt mean low, doesnt even mean clean or not clean.
Power is expensive, more expensive than drivers often, instead of getting an inefficient driver, that needs lots of power to get moving, get an efficient one, so that you can reach the same output as that 1000 wattRMS sub with 250(yeah its possable).
Some important info we need to know to get started!
1. what do you use sub for? movies? music? both? give us a ratio movies:music 30/70
2. What are you looking for? maximum boom and spl? low end extension? or fidelity and an even response?
3. HOW MUCH SPACE!
4. how big is the room this is going in?
Beat me to first reply bassawdyo!
Parts Express is your friend.
Dayton Loudspeaker Quatro 15 - $75
Parts Express 240 watt plate amp - $120
MDF - whatever...
Dayton Loudspeaker Quatro 15 - $75
Parts Express 240 watt plate amp - $120
MDF - whatever...
i just got one of the amps and, there on special for $109 right now and seems to be a pretty decent amp! thought i'd pass the wordBogie said:
🙂
Can vouch for the 15" Quatro.
It's a great way to go, and offers a lot of bang for the buck. It can move about as much air as an Adire Shiva for a bit less money (albeit in a larger box). If you put it in a really large box and tune low, you can get excellent output even down to 10 Hz, though most people will want to maximize SPL/power handling and use a smaller box tuned higher. 240 watts is plenty to get it moving very well, and in fact the RMS power handling is only 300. I can attest that 300w is fairly accurate, as I have more available and it cannot all be used.
Regarding car woofers, I would stay away, especially in your price range. For a given amount of swept volume (amount of air it can move), you pay easily 2-3 times more for a 'car' woofer versus a 'home' woofer. Even with closeouts and eBay, car woofers still come out more expensive, and they don't perform as well at lower frequencies anyhow, since they tend to have higher Fs.
Aaron Gilbert
It's a great way to go, and offers a lot of bang for the buck. It can move about as much air as an Adire Shiva for a bit less money (albeit in a larger box). If you put it in a really large box and tune low, you can get excellent output even down to 10 Hz, though most people will want to maximize SPL/power handling and use a smaller box tuned higher. 240 watts is plenty to get it moving very well, and in fact the RMS power handling is only 300. I can attest that 300w is fairly accurate, as I have more available and it cannot all be used.
Regarding car woofers, I would stay away, especially in your price range. For a given amount of swept volume (amount of air it can move), you pay easily 2-3 times more for a 'car' woofer versus a 'home' woofer. Even with closeouts and eBay, car woofers still come out more expensive, and they don't perform as well at lower frequencies anyhow, since they tend to have higher Fs.
Aaron Gilbert
Personally, I wouldn't dismiss subwoofers "marketed" to car audio so quickly. To address some concerns, the are several drivers that do have a relatively low Fs, that's just another spec that you will have to look at when analyzing your options. As far as cost/performance ratio, there are without a doubt more companies and raw subwoofers that are marketed towards the car audio market when compared to the home/DIY audio market. Though it may be more difficult, there are bargains and values out there to be found you just have to do more sifting.
I know that many home audio enthusiasts may frown upon using these particular drivers for home use (and I respect that), I still believe that there are many subwoofers that would work well in both car and home environments depending on the user's application. Also, some are marketed as both, for instance the many of Adire's drivers that have already been mentioned in this thread.
Though I believe these statements are true, I suppose they are still just my opinon, but what I'm trying to get at for the thread-poster is don't simply eliminate so many possibilities so easily. You're really just limiting yourself then.
- Luke
I know that many home audio enthusiasts may frown upon using these particular drivers for home use (and I respect that), I still believe that there are many subwoofers that would work well in both car and home environments depending on the user's application. Also, some are marketed as both, for instance the many of Adire's drivers that have already been mentioned in this thread.
Though I believe these statements are true, I suppose they are still just my opinon, but what I'm trying to get at for the thread-poster is don't simply eliminate so many possibilities so easily. You're really just limiting yourself then.
- Luke
luke is right!
Want a fast, clean long throw sub in a (reasonably) small 1.4 cu ft sealed box?+,- 3db 22 to100Hz! plays quite loud and very musical. 1 of the best ive ever heard. $135! its the Hsu ASW1203 .And yes ASW stands for auto sub woofer! 18mm X max and 400 watts power handling. I use 2 in a stereo pair and the heartbeat on DSOM actually shakes the whole house using an old 150 w stereo amp!
http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/#asw
Want a fast, clean long throw sub in a (reasonably) small 1.4 cu ft sealed box?+,- 3db 22 to100Hz! plays quite loud and very musical. 1 of the best ive ever heard. $135! its the Hsu ASW1203 .And yes ASW stands for auto sub woofer! 18mm X max and 400 watts power handling. I use 2 in a stereo pair and the heartbeat on DSOM actually shakes the whole house using an old 150 w stereo amp!
http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/#asw
-3 dB at 22 Hz with this subwoofer in a living room in a small box like that?
I have a hard time to believe that, where and how did you measure that?
That subwoofer would look great in a 1,4 cu. ft box in a car, probably going to 22 Hz, but in a living room?
I have a hard time to believe that, where and how did you measure that?
That subwoofer would look great in a 1,4 cu. ft box in a car, probably going to 22 Hz, but in a living room?
well simon, i
tom noisaine measured it in a car to 12 HZ. check the Hsu site for the review. as to listening, i use 2 of them 8 feet apart . I measured 1 of them at Dr. Bruce Edgars horn shop, in the middle of his large listrning room . the measurements were performed by Dr. Bruce @ 1 W/1m, and witnessed by Steve Shell , and 1/2 dozen members of Bruces Horn Club. Bruce calibrated the LMS sys imediately before the runs . it was driven by Dr. Hsu's 150 W plate amp which has modest LF EQ. subsequent to this Bruce has offered his own excellant sealed sub, which also uses an expensive autosound driver in a similar sized sys with similar results. I believe I recall that his sub goes a few HZ lower @ the -3db point. Ive been in this biz/hobby for 55 years and dont make claims and SWAGs I cant back up. 🙂
tom noisaine measured it in a car to 12 HZ. check the Hsu site for the review. as to listening, i use 2 of them 8 feet apart . I measured 1 of them at Dr. Bruce Edgars horn shop, in the middle of his large listrning room . the measurements were performed by Dr. Bruce @ 1 W/1m, and witnessed by Steve Shell , and 1/2 dozen members of Bruces Horn Club. Bruce calibrated the LMS sys imediately before the runs . it was driven by Dr. Hsu's 150 W plate amp which has modest LF EQ. subsequent to this Bruce has offered his own excellant sealed sub, which also uses an expensive autosound driver in a similar sized sys with similar results. I believe I recall that his sub goes a few HZ lower @ the -3db point. Ive been in this biz/hobby for 55 years and dont make claims and SWAGs I cant back up. 🙂
Ha, here's the problem.
Some LF EQ.
Any subwoofer can be -3 dB down at 22 Hz with some LF EQ.
That's seriously compromising maximum SPL performance most of the time.
Some LF EQ.
Any subwoofer can be -3 dB down at 22 Hz with some LF EQ.
That's seriously compromising maximum SPL performance most of the time.
well i guess you are determined to throw rocks at this
maybe cause you havent a clue what it really sounds like 🙂 seriously compromised? hardly. they hit 109db easilly and effortlessly in my 14x24 room. if you want more than that, i dont want to be in the room!. in the car they went +,- 2.5db 11 to 134 hz and spl > 117db,12.5 to 80 hz.@ 10% dist. in tom nosaines report, In the home or in the car, these are some serious speakers
maybe cause you havent a clue what it really sounds like 🙂 seriously compromised? hardly. they hit 109db easilly and effortlessly in my 14x24 room. if you want more than that, i dont want to be in the room!. in the car they went +,- 2.5db 11 to 134 hz and spl > 117db,12.5 to 80 hz.@ 10% dist. in tom nosaines report, In the home or in the car, these are some serious speakers
I said most of the time it seriously compromise Max SPL. I modeled your subwoofer with 4 dB gain at 22 Hz and saw it have alot of excursion to spare even when powered by 400W. It seems like the exception who confirm the rule hehe! So it's true that it can hit 109 dB, I believe you now, sorry for asking more facts.
Does the LF EQ is on the plate amplifier? Included in the highpass filter? If yes, then you're losing a bit the advantages of a sealed subwoofer. It looks like a ported design with group delay and all. The group delay is even worse.
Does the LF EQ is on the plate amplifier? Included in the highpass filter? If yes, then you're losing a bit the advantages of a sealed subwoofer. It looks like a ported design with group delay and all. The group delay is even worse.
well, its still tight and clean
and dosnt exibit any of the downside of the many ported sys ive had and even beats many of the horn sys , but not Bruces SEISMIC sub but it didnt embarass itself in a direct AB with it either!🙂 I dont use a plate amp, I use a fine old stereo 150 watt amp and drive a sub from each channel. The eq is in the 'black box' passive speaker level XO that Hsu has but dosent advertise, I found out about it from Dr. HSU when i was discussing this sub with him . i prefer this way and all that have heard my sys have been impressed 🙂 the plate amp i mentioned was @ bruces when we measured it. it also had HSUs specified EQ. this driver is an unusual one and a bargin at around 140$, I paid 180$ for two, 5 or so years ago.
and dosnt exibit any of the downside of the many ported sys ive had and even beats many of the horn sys , but not Bruces SEISMIC sub but it didnt embarass itself in a direct AB with it either!🙂 I dont use a plate amp, I use a fine old stereo 150 watt amp and drive a sub from each channel. The eq is in the 'black box' passive speaker level XO that Hsu has but dosent advertise, I found out about it from Dr. HSU when i was discussing this sub with him . i prefer this way and all that have heard my sys have been impressed 🙂 the plate amp i mentioned was @ bruces when we measured it. it also had HSUs specified EQ. this driver is an unusual one and a bargin at around 140$, I paid 180$ for two, 5 or so years ago.
In room responses of this sort aren't unusual, and point out why one doesn't need to design for anechoic response to 15 Hz: cabin gain will do the job for you.
That just depends on your tastes in SPL at infrasonic frequencies. I designed my Tumult to go down to 10hz in room which means about -12db anechoic at 10hz. thats 106dbmax@ 10hz anechoic so maybe around 120 in room if your lucky. I dont like praying that room gain will fill in however. I like to hear those pictures rattle!!!
what would be the ultimate box for the HSU woofer ?
let me know and i will buy 2 of the woofers this week.
thank you
let me know and i will buy 2 of the woofers this week.
thank you
zuki said:what would be the ultimate box for the HSU woofer ?
let me know and i will buy 2 of the woofers this week.
thank you
First, what's your idea of ultimate? i.e. what are you trying to accomplish in your application?
- Luke
hello zuki
In conversations with Dr. HSU , he rscomended around 1.4 Ft 3, and mine are 1.47 they are 14X14X13 in inside dims. as i said in my earlier post they measure extremely good in room . 3/4 baltic birch with braces(adjust vol for any braces) stuffed 12 ounces/ft3 is a good place to start. A box this small, well built with good joints , can be built without intrenal braces (mine are) and no probs. u can vary the proportions if u keep the vol the same . build 2 if at all possible. drive with at least200 watts/ channel @4 ohms. regards and have fun.
In conversations with Dr. HSU , he rscomended around 1.4 Ft 3, and mine are 1.47 they are 14X14X13 in inside dims. as i said in my earlier post they measure extremely good in room . 3/4 baltic birch with braces(adjust vol for any braces) stuffed 12 ounces/ft3 is a good place to start. A box this small, well built with good joints , can be built without intrenal braces (mine are) and no probs. u can vary the proportions if u keep the vol the same . build 2 if at all possible. drive with at least200 watts/ channel @4 ohms. regards and have fun.
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