It's an idler machine. It says "Rondine" on it. It has the big round motor.
Actually I might have answered my own question. If you look at the mechanism from the side it looks like total chaos but if you flip the machine and look straight down on it, it looks a lot friendlier. Not that it couldn't be botched by sufficient incompetence or hidden traps. And I don't know what's going to fall off when I unscrew the three-point plate topside. What does that thing do anyway?
Actually I might have answered my own question. If you look at the mechanism from the side it looks like total chaos but if you flip the machine and look straight down on it, it looks a lot friendlier. Not that it couldn't be botched by sufficient incompetence or hidden traps. And I don't know what's going to fall off when I unscrew the three-point plate topside. What does that thing do anyway?
Download a Service Manual and it'll answer all your questions.
Rondine?
Rondine Jr?
Rondine B12?
Rondine B12H?
Rondine Jr L34?
Guys here need to know WHAT model of Rondine.
Rondine?
Rondine Jr?
Rondine B12?
Rondine B12H?
Rondine Jr L34?
Guys here need to know WHAT model of Rondine.
Bamalama,
take some photos and upload them here. That would be very helpful toward getting your answers
Doug
take some photos and upload them here. That would be very helpful toward getting your answers
Doug
Actually all the Rondine series are similar. The first suggestion is to take lots of photos as you disassemble.
Start on top side. The idler carrier is held by 3 screws through the bushings - one has a nut from the bottom. The idler carrier has a spring that will need to be detached. Then the grommets simply pop out and new ones back in.
The motor carrier is removed from the bottom. It's best to disconnect the motor wiring before removing motor although you can change grommets with it connected. You'll see it slides under a plate held on by 2 screws. There's a spring under there which is best removed first - comes out at end of the carrier using the brass plug. Then remove the 2 screws on the slide plate. Finally there's a pivot with a couple nuts (locking and require double wrench to loosen). Remove these and be sure to note location and sequence of washers and spring. You'll then see how the motor carrier is attached to sliding carrier by 4 screws through the grommets.
While disassembled I'd suggest cleaning and re-lubing everything.
The manual is worth having as it describes the speed adjustment procedure. Also would likely benefit from replacing or refurbishing the idler wheel.
If you have any specific questions, feel free to get in touch - I've restored a bunch of these. They are really nice sounding when restored. I generally replace the arm in the process because you can make a large improvement.
Start on top side. The idler carrier is held by 3 screws through the bushings - one has a nut from the bottom. The idler carrier has a spring that will need to be detached. Then the grommets simply pop out and new ones back in.
The motor carrier is removed from the bottom. It's best to disconnect the motor wiring before removing motor although you can change grommets with it connected. You'll see it slides under a plate held on by 2 screws. There's a spring under there which is best removed first - comes out at end of the carrier using the brass plug. Then remove the 2 screws on the slide plate. Finally there's a pivot with a couple nuts (locking and require double wrench to loosen). Remove these and be sure to note location and sequence of washers and spring. You'll then see how the motor carrier is attached to sliding carrier by 4 screws through the grommets.
While disassembled I'd suggest cleaning and re-lubing everything.
The manual is worth having as it describes the speed adjustment procedure. Also would likely benefit from replacing or refurbishing the idler wheel.
If you have any specific questions, feel free to get in touch - I've restored a bunch of these. They are really nice sounding when restored. I generally replace the arm in the process because you can make a large improvement.
Holy Christmas, a helpful response !!
Thanks a million !
B
PS I bought a fancypants arm but I have to mount it off the top edge of the 'table because of its distance requirements. We'll see how that works out.
Thanks a million !
B
PS I bought a fancypants arm but I have to mount it off the top edge of the 'table because of its distance requirements. We'll see how that works out.
Yes, there's limited space for even 9"arms. I've had luck filling the existing hole (bondo) before refinishing. This gives some flexibility to move it farther back but you have to avoid getting too close to the edge. Most anything 222mm pivot to spindle can work. A normal hole saw will drill the casting but you need a wood blank clamped tightly on top to keep it from wandering. There are a lot of very nice vintage arms that work without using outboard armboard. Any of the Linn derivatives, including Kuzma, Mission SM; AudioQuest (and other Jelco derivatives/OEM) Moerch DP6 is a nice arm for that table.
Does the arm on this one mount to the metal part? On my Rodine Jr the arm mounted to the wooden plinth. A new arm made a huge difference.