Yeah but a tank of water on top of the amp is not as neat looking!
As for the block, i'll just make it big and route it as much with water channels as possible. I know that the information is out there in the net, i'm just too lazy to look it up 😀
As for the block, i'll just make it big and route it as much with water channels as possible. I know that the information is out there in the net, i'm just too lazy to look it up 😀
There are ready made cooingl-plates for electronics: http://www.fischerelektronik.de/_2002/PDF/Einzel_PDF/A_117.pdf
Take a look there for the construction.
Take a look there for the construction.
Ah, water cooling! The only way to fly......
(For something on water cooled, diesel, light aircraft engines, visit this site: www.deltahawkengines.com. )
A relatively easy way to fabricate something along these lines is to obtain a longish piece of thick copper, say 1/8" (3mm), drill it for the semis, then silver solder a length of plumbers copper pipe along it. Terminating the copper tube for water fittings is routine, and this can then be used to circulate water using a purge pump from a discarded dishwasher. I put an adjustable loopback on the pump so I could flow only tiny quantities into the tubing. Cheap plastic pipe can be buried underground - a wonderful heat exchanger in any climate - and the whole thing can be set up so that if the purge pump ever fails, the amp switches off. This way the entire pump and dissipation assembly is keep outside the home, only a couple of small pipes, ID of typically 1/4" (6mm), and silent.
I ran a Class A mosfet this way for five years, never had a problem. I also used a reservoir and a solenoid to the mains to replenish supply if it fell below a level sensor. All automatic, and cheap - I think I paid about $US8 for a purge pump from a dishwasher repair shop.
Cheers,
Hugh
(For something on water cooled, diesel, light aircraft engines, visit this site: www.deltahawkengines.com. )
A relatively easy way to fabricate something along these lines is to obtain a longish piece of thick copper, say 1/8" (3mm), drill it for the semis, then silver solder a length of plumbers copper pipe along it. Terminating the copper tube for water fittings is routine, and this can then be used to circulate water using a purge pump from a discarded dishwasher. I put an adjustable loopback on the pump so I could flow only tiny quantities into the tubing. Cheap plastic pipe can be buried underground - a wonderful heat exchanger in any climate - and the whole thing can be set up so that if the purge pump ever fails, the amp switches off. This way the entire pump and dissipation assembly is keep outside the home, only a couple of small pipes, ID of typically 1/4" (6mm), and silent.
I ran a Class A mosfet this way for five years, never had a problem. I also used a reservoir and a solenoid to the mains to replenish supply if it fell below a level sensor. All automatic, and cheap - I think I paid about $US8 for a purge pump from a dishwasher repair shop.
Cheers,
Hugh
Yup, that's what Grey did exactly. There is no need to invent anything. It's been tried, and it works..
It seems every time i check this post everything becomes *cheaper* 🙂 I'll start picking up pieces today!
AKsa.ground source heat exchanger.....we do the oppisite here in Canada...we make heat pumps Mate...LOL
Check this out. This is exactly what i had in mind for a compact, fanless radiator (and quite cheap, specially for a new part). Now i gotta found some of those locally...
Hi Lisandro,
There is a better option than a transmission cooler. Cheaper too.
Visit an auto wrecking yard. Ask for a heater core from behind the dash. These critters are designer for larger flow and more heat throughput, and you'll likely pay a LOT less than $US20.
They usually have input/output pipes around 5/16" to 1/2".
If you want to make your cooling apparatus portable, this is the way to go.
Cheers,
Hugh
There is a better option than a transmission cooler. Cheaper too.
Visit an auto wrecking yard. Ask for a heater core from behind the dash. These critters are designer for larger flow and more heat throughput, and you'll likely pay a LOT less than $US20.
They usually have input/output pipes around 5/16" to 1/2".
If you want to make your cooling apparatus portable, this is the way to go.
Cheers,
Hugh
That's exactly what i was planning to do tomorrow. Again, it has become *cheaper* 🙂 It seems that you could get away with a decent watercooler for less than 50 bucks!
Did you get any further on this?
I'm about to water cool my PC, I'm getting tired of the noise the faster machines make.
I've been looking for square or rectangular copper tubing and can't find any. I've found some square BRONZE tubing, but I don't know of the zinc would make it better or worse than aluminum.
I'm about to water cool my PC, I'm getting tired of the noise the faster machines make.
I've been looking for square or rectangular copper tubing and can't find any. I've found some square BRONZE tubing, but I don't know of the zinc would make it better or worse than aluminum.
Might as well use aluminum. Come to think of it, copper and bronze might be corrosion hazards. Then again, aluminum is a reactive metal too...
Tim
Tim
that is why glycol is used in all water cooling and heating applications to prevent corrosion and to raise the boiling point of the water
I'm still looking for a suitable radiator. To be honest, i haven't had much time to look arround for that, but the two or three places i've visited had only large, bulky ones. The cooling block would be made out of Cu and the pump (another gripe, i have to find a realy quiet one) from a dishwasher machine would do. Deionized water and glycol or other antifreeze are your best best to avoid corrosion and clogging from bacteria. And, i plan to add some kind of sensoring to the cooling block just in case the pump dies (a diode would be enough).
It all boils down to prices 🙂 I much rather use passive cooling, but sinks big enough to handle 200w idle are *not* cheap.
It all boils down to prices 🙂 I much rather use passive cooling, but sinks big enough to handle 200w idle are *not* cheap.
I'm still looking for a suitable radiator
motorcycle oil coolers work good and there small.....😉
worked good on my ninja 900 till i thrashed it🙁
motorcycle oil coolers work good and there small.....😉
worked good on my ninja 900 till i thrashed it🙁
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