Wasn't that what I was sort of suggesting in post 9?
Trouble with that as a solution is how much of the guitar's sound is tied up with the speakers; put a 'HiFi' full range system together that can be used for disco nights, it's going to have the same problem as the acoustic amp, put together something that sounds enormous on guitar, and it'll sound muddy and confused on recorded music, put in a tweeter on a separate amp that only functions on the 'dance' input, not the 'guitar' one, I'm not even going to talk about phasing, frequency response strangeties and the rest around crossover frequency.
Besides, I thought we could build a poured concrete cabinet because we were never going to move this thing.
Trouble with that as a solution is how much of the guitar's sound is tied up with the speakers; put a 'HiFi' full range system together that can be used for disco nights, it's going to have the same problem as the acoustic amp, put together something that sounds enormous on guitar, and it'll sound muddy and confused on recorded music, put in a tweeter on a separate amp that only functions on the 'dance' input, not the 'guitar' one, I'm not even going to talk about phasing, frequency response strangeties and the rest around crossover frequency.
Besides, I thought we could build a poured concrete cabinet because we were never going to move this thing.
So sorry, for the post 9, I tought wrong ... 😱
I have all the time to build something which suit me perfectly, my original question can not be running, but from the beginning I have learned a lot, it's better for me (this is just my opinion).
So, choices :
1) Build a little great preamp, amp and speaker
and
2) Build a bigger system
1) not now, so we can go to 2
2) if I want power (and I want power), to what kind of amp should I turn me to make it suitable for use electric guitar ?
I thought the chip amps were a good solution, since this is not the case, could you offer me as a cheap alternative please ?
Thanks 😉
I have all the time to build something which suit me perfectly, my original question can not be running, but from the beginning I have learned a lot, it's better for me (this is just my opinion).
So, choices :
1) Build a little great preamp, amp and speaker
and
2) Build a bigger system
1) not now, so we can go to 2
2) if I want power (and I want power), to what kind of amp should I turn me to make it suitable for use electric guitar ?
I thought the chip amps were a good solution, since this is not the case, could you offer me as a cheap alternative please ?
Thanks 😉
Ne me fait pas dire les choses que je n'ai jamais affirmé.
The chip amps have the problem that you can't get enough current into a 4Ω load, but they're current protected, thermal protected, easy to use. They need a massive amount of heat sink, but face it, anything but class D is going to need a massive heat sink. If you water cooled them you could probably produce hot water to launder all the clothes you're going to sweat into😀.
If you build a standard bridge amp board, and choose eight ohm speakers, you simply put one bridge amp per speaker. Your preamp can easily drive ten power stages; that sounds to me like a perfectly adequate power for home use, but if you're still not satisfied, a buffer amp for as many outputs as your heart could possibly desire.
One big power supply; it's really not much more expensive than the serial/parallel set up you found, and as it's standard modules you can use them in lots of different projects.
The chip amps have the problem that you can't get enough current into a 4Ω load, but they're current protected, thermal protected, easy to use. They need a massive amount of heat sink, but face it, anything but class D is going to need a massive heat sink. If you water cooled them you could probably produce hot water to launder all the clothes you're going to sweat into😀.
If you build a standard bridge amp board, and choose eight ohm speakers, you simply put one bridge amp per speaker. Your preamp can easily drive ten power stages; that sounds to me like a perfectly adequate power for home use, but if you're still not satisfied, a buffer amp for as many outputs as your heart could possibly desire.
One big power supply; it's really not much more expensive than the serial/parallel set up you found, and as it's standard modules you can use them in lots of different projects.
Hi,
Désolé j'ai du mal avec l'anglais, donc il se peut que je n'ai pas ou mal compris certaines choses 😱
SO ! You tell me something very interesting 🙄
I have few questions :
- For my future amp, 4R isn't possible, just 8R ? In 4R my hp will not move?
- What is a buffer amp ? How to set up ?
- One big psu is always better than multiple little psu ?
Thanks, I'm starting to understand what I need 😉
In addition, I always dreamed of having hot water on demand 😀
Désolé j'ai du mal avec l'anglais, donc il se peut que je n'ai pas ou mal compris certaines choses 😱
SO ! You tell me something very interesting 🙄
I have few questions :
- For my future amp, 4R isn't possible, just 8R ? In 4R my hp will not move?
- What is a buffer amp ? How to set up ?
- One big psu is always better than multiple little psu ?
Thanks, I'm starting to understand what I need 😉
In addition, I always dreamed of having hot water on demand 😀
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buffer_(électronique)
I have *almost* understand the buffer amp principe ... have you ie for my situations ?
Thanks 🙂
I have *almost* understand the buffer amp principe ... have you ie for my situations ?
Thanks 🙂
Combien d'haut parleurs il vous faut (um, apres cette 'thread' je crois qu'on pourrait se tu toyer, non?) Pour quelquechose raisonable, une sortie d'une amplie operationel sufit largement. Par contre, c'est reconnu que les guitarists ne sont pas toujours excessivement raisonable😀
How many loudspeakers are you looking at? For a four by twelve your preamp out put shouldn't have any problems. Indeed, for any reasonable number of amps, any preamp output should suffice. On the other hand, it has been known, occasionally, that guitarists not be entirely reasonable. My standard buffer is an op amp with a complimentary pair of transistors on the output, inside the feedback loop; drives 100Ω with ease.
No, a big power supply isn't better than several little ones, but it's cheaper. If you want a separate power supply for each bridge amp, so you can use them independently, it's just as good. Also means when the fuse blows on one, you can go on playing (less important for a home rehearsal rig than a live setup).
Non, une alimentation énorme n'est pas meilleure que plusieurs petites, seulement meilleur marché. Si tu as envie d'une alimentation independente pour chaque ampl bridge, pour pouvoir s'en servir séparément, vas y, ça fonctionerai tout aussi bien.
A buffer amp amplifies the current, not the voltage, of a signal. An upright bass with a piezo pickup can produce remarkably large voltages, at very high impedances. A sufficiently powerful buffer could get quite a decent signal through a loudspeaker (admittedly we would tend to voltage amplify it too, but it would certainly be able to use it with headphones without).
Un ampli tampon amplifi le courant, pas le voltage, d'un signal, sans modifier le voltage. Un ampli de distribution (distribution amplifier) contient generalement plusiers de ses amplis tampons, un pour chaque destination.
A l'époque qu'on 'matché' une source 600Ω avec une entrée 600Ω, on avait besoin d'une ampli de distribution chaque fois qu'on voudrait envoyer un signal à deux destinations differents. Maintenant, avec le philosophie 'bas impedance entre dans haut', c'est rarement une problème.
In the epoque when a six hundred ohm source fed a six hundred ohm input it was necessary to buffer every time you did a split; nowadays, with the 'low impedance feeds high' philosophy, it's rarely essential.
Oh, et bien sure les haut parleurs quatre ohms bougeraient; simplement, les circuits de protection de l'ampli rentrerent en action avant puissance maximal. Le meilleur transfert de puissance va être avec les HP de 8Ω, c'est tout.
Of course, the system will drive four ohm speakers – it's just that the chipamp's protection circuits will cut in early. One pair of chip amps in bridge mode per eight ohm speaker is the optimum power transfer, that's all.
How many loudspeakers are you looking at? For a four by twelve your preamp out put shouldn't have any problems. Indeed, for any reasonable number of amps, any preamp output should suffice. On the other hand, it has been known, occasionally, that guitarists not be entirely reasonable. My standard buffer is an op amp with a complimentary pair of transistors on the output, inside the feedback loop; drives 100Ω with ease.
No, a big power supply isn't better than several little ones, but it's cheaper. If you want a separate power supply for each bridge amp, so you can use them independently, it's just as good. Also means when the fuse blows on one, you can go on playing (less important for a home rehearsal rig than a live setup).
Non, une alimentation énorme n'est pas meilleure que plusieurs petites, seulement meilleur marché. Si tu as envie d'une alimentation independente pour chaque ampl bridge, pour pouvoir s'en servir séparément, vas y, ça fonctionerai tout aussi bien.
A buffer amp amplifies the current, not the voltage, of a signal. An upright bass with a piezo pickup can produce remarkably large voltages, at very high impedances. A sufficiently powerful buffer could get quite a decent signal through a loudspeaker (admittedly we would tend to voltage amplify it too, but it would certainly be able to use it with headphones without).
Un ampli tampon amplifi le courant, pas le voltage, d'un signal, sans modifier le voltage. Un ampli de distribution (distribution amplifier) contient generalement plusiers de ses amplis tampons, un pour chaque destination.
A l'époque qu'on 'matché' une source 600Ω avec une entrée 600Ω, on avait besoin d'une ampli de distribution chaque fois qu'on voudrait envoyer un signal à deux destinations differents. Maintenant, avec le philosophie 'bas impedance entre dans haut', c'est rarement une problème.
In the epoque when a six hundred ohm source fed a six hundred ohm input it was necessary to buffer every time you did a split; nowadays, with the 'low impedance feeds high' philosophy, it's rarely essential.
Oh, et bien sure les haut parleurs quatre ohms bougeraient; simplement, les circuits de protection de l'ampli rentrerent en action avant puissance maximal. Le meilleur transfert de puissance va être avec les HP de 8Ω, c'est tout.
Of course, the system will drive four ohm speakers – it's just that the chipamp's protection circuits will cut in early. One pair of chip amps in bridge mode per eight ohm speaker is the optimum power transfer, that's all.
Last edited:
Oui bien sur que l'on peut se tutoyer, tu préfères l'anglais ou le français toi ?
How many loudspeakers ? Good question ! It's not really defined ... I do think little by little, with the money that comes slowly 😀
Ok for the power supply !
For a best amps behavior, can I for exemple bridge two bpa 300 (so 4 bpa 150 ?) or is it that we can not bridge once an amp?
Thanks 🙂
How many loudspeakers ? Good question ! It's not really defined ... I do think little by little, with the money that comes slowly 😀
Ok for the power supply !
For a best amps behavior, can I for exemple bridge two bpa 300 (so 4 bpa 150 ?) or is it that we can not bridge once an amp?
Thanks 🙂
Ça me mets égale, plus au moins. Ça fait quarante ans que j'ai quitter l'Angleterre, et après demain que je rentre dand ma perfide Albion natale…
To bridge two bridges requires extremely complex power supplies, level shifting, variable references; it's not worth it. Basically, the two double amps push each other apart, so there is no ground reference, everything's floating. Stick to just a bridge, or go onto more power supply volts (there might well be a chip amp for a higher voltage)
Ponter deux ponts demande un alimentation très spéciale, les changements de référence dynamiques… le jeu vaut pas la chandelle. Essentiellement, ça demande que le sortie d'une ampli pousse le référence d'une autre, pas de vrai masse, tout est rélative (comme dira Einstein).
Alors, c'est claire. chaque fois qu'on achète un nouveau haut parleur on construit une nouvelle encente, et un nouveau bridge amp, et fait des tours de bruit…
So, clear; every time you buy a new loudpeaker, you construct a new cabinet and a new bridge amp, and add it to the tottering edifice.
To bridge two bridges requires extremely complex power supplies, level shifting, variable references; it's not worth it. Basically, the two double amps push each other apart, so there is no ground reference, everything's floating. Stick to just a bridge, or go onto more power supply volts (there might well be a chip amp for a higher voltage)
Ponter deux ponts demande un alimentation très spéciale, les changements de référence dynamiques… le jeu vaut pas la chandelle. Essentiellement, ça demande que le sortie d'une ampli pousse le référence d'une autre, pas de vrai masse, tout est rélative (comme dira Einstein).
Alors, c'est claire. chaque fois qu'on achète un nouveau haut parleur on construit une nouvelle encente, et un nouveau bridge amp, et fait des tours de bruit…
So, clear; every time you buy a new loudpeaker, you construct a new cabinet and a new bridge amp, and add it to the tottering edifice.
Hi,
With your informations and advises, I did not yet decided for speakers but I search an amp. The best way is a cheap amp, in 8 ohms and with an output power to 100~200W.
I have found this Ampli 150Wrms 8Ohms à base de modules STK4048XI
It's cheap, in French, with simple pcb design (I can easy made myself the pcb in this configuration) and, with reference to the datasheet, I can obtain up to 220W ++ by varing the power supply voltage (well on adapting some components and cooling)
What do you think about this ? 🙂
With your informations and advises, I did not yet decided for speakers but I search an amp. The best way is a cheap amp, in 8 ohms and with an output power to 100~200W.
I have found this Ampli 150Wrms 8Ohms à base de modules STK4048XI
It's cheap, in French, with simple pcb design (I can easy made myself the pcb in this configuration) and, with reference to the datasheet, I can obtain up to 220W ++ by varing the power supply voltage (well on adapting some components and cooling)
What do you think about this ? 🙂
I think that 220watt is never going to be cheap
this Brit amp module is certainly cheap, and maybe it could be turned into a nice instrument amp
http://www.bkelec.com/Modules/MF100.htm
I didn't know they were still going! 😀
An old mate of mine bought a load of their modules years back to build a PA system, from what I remember he was always very happy with them.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.