Boywonder,
Yes, having the brace be proud was my fear and reason for purposely leaving it a little shy and attaching a secondary piece to it on site to touch the magnet. I really like the idea of some slightly compliant material at the magnet brace interface. Thanks for the input. It would be nice to have a pair of drivers on hand, but Von.ah is reluctant to ship them.
Evan
Yes, having the brace be proud was my fear and reason for purposely leaving it a little shy and attaching a secondary piece to it on site to touch the magnet. I really like the idea of some slightly compliant material at the magnet brace interface. Thanks for the input. It would be nice to have a pair of drivers on hand, but Von.ah is reluctant to ship them.
Evan
Evan, I'd still consider the magnet approach. Judging from the quality of your work on TubeLab amplifier cabinet and furniture on your website, you'd have no trouble with clean mounting holes, and depending on the applied finish the magnets could be touched up with something like color matched Mohawk markers.
Just don't install the magnets until after sanding.
I certainly agree that the mounting clips for speakerworks grilles are rather ugly, and have had very poor results with hed-lock style fasteners - when (not if) the male fitting on grille snaps off, repair is rather troublesome. In any case, the enclosure mounted fitting or screw hole for mounting clips would be visible when grilles are removed, and I personally find the exposed magnets simply more elegant.
Of course, if using Mark's supplied hex screws, you could always imbed magnets in the wooden frames to align with the screw locations, but their proximity to perimeter of surround would definitely cause serious diffraction issues.
As to how much "protection" is required, (inadvertent) parents will understand that there's never enough
Very good ideas, here, thanks... Due to the power of the deconstructive 4 year old boy, 
I'm rather convinced that I need something more than grill fabric fastened down.
I got the Madisound grills for a last resort. The mounting ring internal diameter is just bigger than the EL70 frame, so I was thinking of mounting the ring upside-down to the cabinet and the grill could snap over it. However, that may render all the care of flush mounting and rounding over baffle corners moot in terms of sonics.
Also, with the Speakerworks grills I only meant to attach a stronger screen on the underside of a frame grill with only grill fabric showing on top. So the suggestions of door screen or aluminum hardware cloth are spot on as potential structural enhancements.
Here's another wild idea:
Flat, circular metal screens matching the driver diameter and mounting holes. Using some stand-offs for the bezel screw holes, they could be mounted directly on top of the drivers. Maybe some sort of ring gasket (a .25" wide black silicone rubber band) could be stretched over the discs to cover any sharp edges...
I should probably just ship the drivers...
I'm rather convinced that I need something more than grill fabric fastened down.
I got the Madisound grills for a last resort. The mounting ring internal diameter is just bigger than the EL70 frame, so I was thinking of mounting the ring upside-down to the cabinet and the grill could snap over it. However, that may render all the care of flush mounting and rounding over baffle corners moot in terms of sonics.
Also, with the Speakerworks grills I only meant to attach a stronger screen on the underside of a frame grill with only grill fabric showing on top. So the suggestions of door screen or aluminum hardware cloth are spot on as potential structural enhancements.
Here's another wild idea:
Flat, circular metal screens matching the driver diameter and mounting holes. Using some stand-offs for the bezel screw holes, they could be mounted directly on top of the drivers. Maybe some sort of ring gasket (a .25" wide black silicone rubber band) could be stretched over the discs to cover any sharp edges...
I should probably just ship the drivers...
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von.ah
your idea for the madisound grills sounds appealing. Easily implemented and could be removed when the boy is a bit older.
What if you got 2 of the speakerworks grills and fastened them together in an L shape. Then with a small bit going down the back they could slip over the cabinet and cover the top and front driver without any attachment hardware at all. You could cover the metal with grill cloth if you like the look of this better. Seems simple and effective.
Evan
your idea for the madisound grills sounds appealing. Easily implemented and could be removed when the boy is a bit older.
What if you got 2 of the speakerworks grills and fastened them together in an L shape. Then with a small bit going down the back they could slip over the cabinet and cover the top and front driver without any attachment hardware at all. You could cover the metal with grill cloth if you like the look of this better. Seems simple and effective.
Evan
You'll see a photo of L-shaped frame posted in Dave's documentation of this design - those are captive by buried magnets.
If you were to wrap around the back as well into a U-shape, a couple of magnets would likely be all that's required to keep a snugly fit frame in place.
I guess after being prodded by Dave to try this a couple of years ago, I've definitely developed a fetish for magnets.
I won't talk about the others
If you were to wrap around the back as well into a U-shape, a couple of magnets would likely be all that's required to keep a snugly fit frame in place.
I guess after being prodded by Dave to try this a couple of years ago, I've definitely developed a fetish for magnets.
I won't talk about the others
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Thanks Dave. I sent von.ah a drawing and then looked back here and saw your grills. My only addition was extending down the back to help hold it on.
Since your here can you chime in on the need for the brace from side to side. In this case the sides are a full inch thick.
Thanks for you input, Evan
Since your here can you chime in on the need for the brace from side to side. In this case the sides are a full inch thick.
Thanks for you input, Evan
Different material so i'd only be guessing. That it is that thick may actually increase the need.
We built ours without (and a shorter driver brace). After listening with a mechanics stethoscope (an essential tool) we lengthened it in the drawings and added the lower one.
dave
OK,
after having to take some time to finish up some of my "regular " work I'm ready to finish von's boxes. Please take a look at the damping mat and tell me if this looks close. I know I will need to clear an area around the port. I also have 1/2" felt to line the cabinet around the drivers, and fluff for between the drivers. Thanks for the advice.......Evan
after having to take some time to finish up some of my "regular " work I'm ready to finish von's boxes. Please take a look at the damping mat and tell me if this looks close. I know I will need to clear an area around the port. I also have 1/2" felt to line the cabinet around the drivers, and fluff for between the drivers. Thanks for the advice.......Evan
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Even a 1/2" radius will have little effect on diffraction behavior except at the highest frequencies, so I tend to consider the edge treatment as cosmetic. As you're working with solid wood ( Sapele was it?) on the sides/top you have the freedom to go as large as you like, so whatever looks in proportion.
I did a combination of solid African Mahogany and ribbon grain veneer ply a few years ago on which I went a bit overboard on the radius ( PHY 8"). It didn't turn out as well as the same radius on a much larger enclosure. (Tannoy 15" concentric)
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