Good day,
I am thinking about making some nice speakers for our kid’s playroom (3x5m, ceiling at 2.5m). Fixed mounting in the corners of the room to both save space and save the speakers from being moved around by the little ones 🙂. As I have a pair of Visaton B200 that is not being used, I found the Solo Eckbox design here:
SOLO Eckbox | Visaton
Not a very difficult build, but I would prefer something even simpler (like, for example, not needing a sealed enclosure). Ideal would be a 30-40cm wide board attached to the (whole length of the) wall, and use the open space at the top and/or bottom as some sort of vent (there will be some opening as sealing it nicely against the ceiling and floor is not easy…)
I found the Pensils: they are not sealed and need an opening at the bottom. I need to read more on them to see if an adaption would be viable.
Another option: At work, we have an Ultimaker S5 that could be used to print the parts for a back loaded horn or something similar.
Do you have any ideas or suggestions? I am open to buy a different pair of full range drivers!
Many thanks, Erik
I am thinking about making some nice speakers for our kid’s playroom (3x5m, ceiling at 2.5m). Fixed mounting in the corners of the room to both save space and save the speakers from being moved around by the little ones 🙂. As I have a pair of Visaton B200 that is not being used, I found the Solo Eckbox design here:
SOLO Eckbox | Visaton
Not a very difficult build, but I would prefer something even simpler (like, for example, not needing a sealed enclosure). Ideal would be a 30-40cm wide board attached to the (whole length of the) wall, and use the open space at the top and/or bottom as some sort of vent (there will be some opening as sealing it nicely against the ceiling and floor is not easy…)
I found the Pensils: they are not sealed and need an opening at the bottom. I need to read more on them to see if an adaption would be viable.
Another option: At work, we have an Ultimaker S5 that could be used to print the parts for a back loaded horn or something similar.
Do you have any ideas or suggestions? I am open to buy a different pair of full range drivers!
Many thanks, Erik
It sounds like this would be an ideal application for a BIB. Pretty simple build that can be adapted to several different drivers. Being that it will be placed in the corner, you will benefit as far as the bass is concerned too.
BIB Calculator | Speaker Projects by Zilla
Mike
BIB Calculator | Speaker Projects by Zilla
Mike
Thanks for the reply! I had indeed looked at the BIB and not completely discarded it. What still is challenging, for me:
- the internal board would have a trapezoidal form if one would put the speaker in the corner. It is doable, and as this board is hidden I could put some foam between the board and wall for sealing.
- we have a baseboard, so I would have to cut the front board and fit it to these. also doable, but I am lazy 🙂
I will keep it in mind!
- the internal board would have a trapezoidal form if one would put the speaker in the corner. It is doable, and as this board is hidden I could put some foam between the board and wall for sealing.
- we have a baseboard, so I would have to cut the front board and fit it to these. also doable, but I am lazy 🙂
I will keep it in mind!
I would build the enclosure according to the conventional design, then extend the front baffle from wall to the other wall, of course being backed into the corner as tightly as possible.
The B200 wants to be in an OB, a VERY big sealed box or an aperiodic box.
And it needs phase plugs to deal with the HF dispersion and the laser beam on-axis rise in FR.
An aperiodic box can be described a s a leaky box. You could simply use a vertical board that fits/seals at an angle into the corner, mount the driver asymetrically on the board, open at both ends and start adding volume damping (acoustatuff, dacron wool, etc, well teased) into each end until you have tamed down the excessive bass response to acceptable levels.
I would not skimp on the width of the board.
dave
And it needs phase plugs to deal with the HF dispersion and the laser beam on-axis rise in FR.
An aperiodic box can be described a s a leaky box. You could simply use a vertical board that fits/seals at an angle into the corner, mount the driver asymetrically on the board, open at both ends and start adding volume damping (acoustatuff, dacron wool, etc, well teased) into each end until you have tamed down the excessive bass response to acceptable levels.
I would not skimp on the width of the board.
dave