Hi guys,
An acquaintance of mine is currently recapping my Plinius preamp and we've ran into problems sourcing the 4 main PSU caps.
The info I got from him was: P 16mm, H35mm max, D32mm. 4700uF/63V
I've only found one picture on A'gon but can't make out what caps are these, I suspect Rubycons:
https://ucarecdn.audiogon.com/94c1e...scale_crop/840x630/center/-/quality/lightest/
I haven't seen a cap with 15-16mm lead spacing in this capacity and all are snap-ins. Any ideas? 😕 I don't think the original caps were custom made The preamp has been recapped before but I don't like the way they mounted the new caps - horizontally, zip tied and with wires going to the PCB.
An acquaintance of mine is currently recapping my Plinius preamp and we've ran into problems sourcing the 4 main PSU caps.
The info I got from him was: P 16mm, H35mm max, D32mm. 4700uF/63V
I've only found one picture on A'gon but can't make out what caps are these, I suspect Rubycons:
https://ucarecdn.audiogon.com/94c1e...scale_crop/840x630/center/-/quality/lightest/
I haven't seen a cap with 15-16mm lead spacing in this capacity and all are snap-ins. Any ideas? 😕 I don't think the original caps were custom made The preamp has been recapped before but I don't like the way they mounted the new caps - horizontally, zip tied and with wires going to the PCB.
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P16mm is decidedly odd.
Interestingly, here's an old datasheet for the Elna SILMICs where the engineering drawing shows a 30mm can with 15mm lead spacing -- but none of the values in the datasheet use that size. Make of that what you will....
https://hfc-fs.s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/elna_silmic.pdf
Interestingly, here's an old datasheet for the Elna SILMICs where the engineering drawing shows a 30mm can with 15mm lead spacing -- but none of the values in the datasheet use that size. Make of that what you will....
https://hfc-fs.s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/elna_silmic.pdf
I know but the way they mounted the new ones really bugs me...I've found a 3 legged Vishay/BC
All snap-in types seem to follow the same standard - 10mm lead spacing.
All snap-in types seem to follow the same standard - 10mm lead spacing.
Junk, and likely would not survive shipping, at least not around here.
It's hard to believe they actually do this.
It's hard to believe they actually do this.
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I'm thinking the same, that's why I want them either replaced with better fitting caps or, in the worst case - replace that thin wiring and glue the 4 caps together and to the pcb + tiewraps.
Don´t want to mention the unmentionable, but Plan B could be to drill new holes, properly spaced of course, put , say, new snap-ins there and wire short wires to original pads.
Everything will look original (if that´s important), original holes/pads stay undamaged and IF someday expected replacements are found, they can be mounted there.
Smaller pitch snap-ins (or Radials for that matter) should be glued to board, since new holes will NOT have the proper copper rings.
EDIT:
Proper gluing is essential and then it will survive anything.
I glued large caps top aluminum cassis for decades and they are still there, *decades* later.
In fact, I have to pry them out with a mini crowbar or equivalent to replace them.
I use regular neoprene contact cement, applied thick and let dry as long as it takes (a couple days).
It typically contains a self vulcanizing agent, so besides "drying", after a year or so it vulcanizes and becomes incredibly tough.
Mind you, I make Guitar amps and there is no worse transprt, bumping and vibrating outb there than wit thhese.
FWIW I also glue **power transformers** to chassis !!!
Sick of repairing other people´s amps with broken mounting legs or even transformer just hanging from cabling, a dedicated wreck-ball destroying everything.
Everything will look original (if that´s important), original holes/pads stay undamaged and IF someday expected replacements are found, they can be mounted there.
Smaller pitch snap-ins (or Radials for that matter) should be glued to board, since new holes will NOT have the proper copper rings.
EDIT:
That.
Proper gluing is essential and then it will survive anything.
I glued large caps top aluminum cassis for decades and they are still there, *decades* later.
In fact, I have to pry them out with a mini crowbar or equivalent to replace them.
I use regular neoprene contact cement, applied thick and let dry as long as it takes (a couple days).
It typically contains a self vulcanizing agent, so besides "drying", after a year or so it vulcanizes and becomes incredibly tough.
Mind you, I make Guitar amps and there is no worse transprt, bumping and vibrating outb there than wit thhese.
FWIW I also glue **power transformers** to chassis !!!
Sick of repairing other people´s amps with broken mounting legs or even transformer just hanging from cabling, a dedicated wreck-ball destroying everything.
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I spoke to the tech yesterday and we agreed to replace the Elna caps with 4 new Dubiliers of the same voltage and capacity as the current Elnas are too tall to mount vertically. He is going to drill new 10mm spaced mounting holes and also glue the the caps to the PCB.
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