Re: atc mid
Wow- you are certainly convincing! But then I have had my eye on the ATC for a while...
tbla said:
Wow- you are certainly convincing! But then I have had my eye on the ATC for a while...
tbla said:
What do you think about active XO on this, and also, any idea where I can get the esotar? I have not seen anyone sell the Dyneaudio units, besides the car stuff...
an active system - done right - is always better......!
i don't think its possible to buy dynaudio driveunits for diy anymore.......and the esotar is/was a very expensive dometweeter. (last price i heard was appr. >$500 each...almost a joke)
as you noticed, i live in denmark - home of scan speak, dynaudio and......
perhaps i can make contact to the " underworld of exotic driveunits" and get a pair.....?
i don't think its possible to buy dynaudio driveunits for diy anymore.......and the esotar is/was a very expensive dometweeter. (last price i heard was appr. >$500 each...almost a joke)
as you noticed, i live in denmark - home of scan speak, dynaudio and......
perhaps i can make contact to the " underworld of exotic driveunits" and get a pair.....?
Navin;
Speaker box design inspiration.
http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=40;t=014209
Speaker box design inspiration.
http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=40;t=014209
Re: beaming
Hi Troels, haven't we been here before? 😉
Other drivers that work well with the ATC domes would be Seas Millenium or the Vifa D27 on the top, and for the bass, the matching ATC SB75, the Volt RV3143, or the Seas W22EX01
tbla said:
Hi Troels, haven't we been here before? 😉
Other drivers that work well with the ATC domes would be Seas Millenium or the Vifa D27 on the top, and for the bass, the matching ATC SB75, the Volt RV3143, or the Seas W22EX01
1. the dynaudio dome is no longer available.
2. i need a mid that can go from 80-3k. reason being is that i want to use a side facing woofer to reduce the width of teh baffle and also that the mid would be workig as a small woofer for rear and center channels i shouldhave qualified this earlier. i am looking at the small 5"/6" SEAS Excel and Scan Speak Revelator.
If I took a good 5" mid and XOed it from 300-3k it too would not should any sings of stress. i am using my mids from 80Hz up.
only other option is to go 4 way and use a lower mid and upper mid. that complicates the XO and adds a driver just at the part of male voices.
2. i need a mid that can go from 80-3k. reason being is that i want to use a side facing woofer to reduce the width of teh baffle and also that the mid would be workig as a small woofer for rear and center channels i shouldhave qualified this earlier. i am looking at the small 5"/6" SEAS Excel and Scan Speak Revelator.
If I took a good 5" mid and XOed it from 300-3k it too would not should any sings of stress. i am using my mids from 80Hz up.
only other option is to go 4 way and use a lower mid and upper mid. that complicates the XO and adds a driver just at the part of male voices.
...now, why do you wanna do that....
afaik, you are compromissing the wrong places, if you want a mid goin' from 80-3000 hz, you are still were you started - a basic 2 way solution with a sub.
if you want progress, make a 3-way with sub(s)
hf seas millenium, mid atc 3", low mid scanspeak 5-6" revelator in a closed or "semiclosed box, cross over 80-500 hz and some big 15" to shake things up........
tbla said:
...now, why do you wanna do that....
afaik, you are compromissing the wrong places, if you want a mid goin' from 80-3000 hz, you are still were you started - a basic 2 way solution with a sub.
if you want progress, make a 3-way with sub(s)
hf seas millenium, mid atc 3", low mid scanspeak 5-6" revelator in a closed or "semiclosed box, cross over 80-500 hz and some big 15" to shake things up........
Very interesting! I think we are on the same page here. My current design -> A tall slim tower housing a hf unit (not decided), 3" ATC high mid crossed from 500Hz to 3.5khz, dual 7" Revelator mid-basses going from 70hz to 500 hz, and the low end stuff (not decided at this point, but I would like to find a solution with dual 10 inch drivers that go down to 20 hz... this way I can keep the enclosure looking nice and slim. Otherwise a single or dual 12... But if a 15 is a must, then it is a must.) Active XO... still researching, possibly DIY... Amps -> either Bryston, or DIY... I think these will last for a while
especially if I can get it to go very high (frequency wise)... If not, a supper tweeter can always be appended in the future. The price tag will be between USD$8,000 and $15,000, depending on how much DIY stuff I use. But then.... I can think of much worse things to spend money on. Besides, how many times does one build an all out system?🙂
tbla said:
...now, why do you wanna do that....afaik, you are compromissing the wrong places, if you want a mid goin' from 80-3000 hz, you are still were you started - a basic 2 way solution with a sub. if you want progress, make a 3-way with sub(s)...
amo said:
1. vocals go from 200Hz to 3k Hz and this is the area the ear is most critical in. hence i wanted one driver that can do this range plus a bit more.
2. for the rear and center i want to use the same drivers (except for the bass) and need a system that can go from 70/80Hz - 20k. hence i would need a 6" for the rear. most good 6" can deliver till 3k. the ATC makes more sense when you have a 8" for a midbass then it serves 2 purposes. (a) it covers a range the 8" or tweeter usually cant (1k-3k) (b) reduces beaming in the upper mids.
3. i wanted to keep the whole system as simple as possible. few drivers. low order XO (I would bi amp the sub). I figured if I am going to pay $200+ on a drive unit it better do a good job and have an extended range as well. maybe I am asking for too much?
obviously i can make my rear and center 3 way. only then they get too big (and expensive - ATC for the rear as well).
4. I like the simplicity of my existing system. simple 2 way Passive line level XO. simple passive 2 way bet mid and tweeter. I will be modifiying this system wheni get some time. (a) push push TL for the mid (b) rear mid will then be used for baffle step compensation (c) series XO for the mid-hf AND (d) debating if I should modify the woofer to be dipole but i wonder if I would loose too much of the SPL capability of the existing system. any opinions are welcome.
BTW what you think if Iuse a 6"/7"/8" cone from 70-500Hz and a ATC from 500-3k and put both on a open baffle. If I were to use a ATC I might want to use an 8"; what 8" would you recomend?
the SA tweeter is way to expensive! $600 ouch! Any cheaper choices?
the SA tweeter is way to expensive! $600 ouch! Any cheaper choices?
I haven't found a tweeter that
does what the SA driver can do...
and ... that is DIY available.
ATC midrange - Aren't these expensive too ? $500 each ?
The best drivers are often the expensive
ones, but typically not practical unless
you have a tree that grows money.
I haven't found a tweeter that
does what the SA driver can do...
and ... that is DIY available.
ATC midrange - Aren't these expensive too ? $500 each ?
The best drivers are often the expensive
ones, but typically not practical unless
you have a tree that grows money.
if this was only for a stereo system i would have no qualms using the ATC with a suitable tweeter and 2 or 3 10" woofers doing duty till 250Hz.
however since i want to retain the same drivers (above 80Hz for rear and front) the ATC would have to suppoerted by another driver from 70-300hz. givne that are there not any other drivers that can do the job from 70-3k but still have as transparent a mid as teh ATC? having not heard the ATC myself I know this question does not carry full weight but others on this post have so i guess they might be able to answer.
a 3 way center is not that diffcult to fit but a 3 way rear would be too big unless one use floor standing rears with a 8", ATC and hf unit. the 8" could be TL. then again would dual 5 or 6" would preferable to a 8"? Lets compare drivers of similar qualtiy build etc.. (SS, SEAS, Vifa PL, Focal, Audax, etc..).
however since i want to retain the same drivers (above 80Hz for rear and front) the ATC would have to suppoerted by another driver from 70-300hz. givne that are there not any other drivers that can do the job from 70-3k but still have as transparent a mid as teh ATC? having not heard the ATC myself I know this question does not carry full weight but others on this post have so i guess they might be able to answer.
a 3 way center is not that diffcult to fit but a 3 way rear would be too big unless one use floor standing rears with a 8", ATC and hf unit. the 8" could be TL. then again would dual 5 or 6" would preferable to a 8"? Lets compare drivers of similar qualtiy build etc.. (SS, SEAS, Vifa PL, Focal, Audax, etc..).
you are gettin' close, a 6-10" from 80-100hz to 500hz and then the atc 3" mid to 3500hz and a dometweeter.....for the bas i would prefer a 15" for each channel......its goin' to be a big and expensive system, but in the long run maybe the cheapest - if you make the right decisions...!
btw....perhaps this is usefull...http://www.guidetohometheater.com/fullarchives.cgi?5
BIG is fine for big american houese but i live in an apt. my entire apt is 900 sq. ft. i have friends in the US who have living rooms that are twice that.
the idea was to make the HT system unbotrusive. my first idea was multiple tangbands or Jordan drivers in a line array.
the idea was to make the HT system unbotrusive. my first idea was multiple tangbands or Jordan drivers in a line array.
where to buy ATC units?
I'm getting convinced that ATC has premium mid units. But surfing through those sites such like Madisound/Solen/Creative ATC units cannot be found. Could anybody pls help?
I'm getting convinced that ATC has premium mid units. But surfing through those sites such like Madisound/Solen/Creative ATC units cannot be found. Could anybody pls help?
update
I decided on a 15'' TL 10:1 ratio with .5 lbs*sq. ft. of stuffing.
My dad had this cool idea of taking wood strips and bending it into the shape I needed. So basically it would be like a wooden shell. I figured I could add some acoustic absorb in between one of the layers. The kind that absorbs the low vibrations, not the acoustic kind per se. That stuff would go behind the driver.
If I took a hard wood and did this, would I have good damping from vibrations induced by the speaker?
He had the PVC pipe idea, but I told him it has already been done.
David
I decided on a 15'' TL 10:1 ratio with .5 lbs*sq. ft. of stuffing.
My dad had this cool idea of taking wood strips and bending it into the shape I needed. So basically it would be like a wooden shell. I figured I could add some acoustic absorb in between one of the layers. The kind that absorbs the low vibrations, not the acoustic kind per se. That stuff would go behind the driver.
If I took a hard wood and did this, would I have good damping from vibrations induced by the speaker?
He had the PVC pipe idea, but I told him it has already been done.
David
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