I'm looking at making some kind of 3-way TL.
I like Scan-speak drivers. Speciafically the slitted paper and the carbon fber ones. They look good in everything but efficeincy is lower than what I was looking for. Seems like the better the other specs, the lower the SPL. so....
I was looking for another driver and I seemed to be fixated on the Triangle T17FLV608. Seems to have it all there and looks sexy to boot.
Anybody have experience with this driver? Compared to the vifa mid/bass drivers?
Planet10, any thoughts on how this might sound in an quarter wave resonator?
btw, awesome webpage. It great man.
ah, almost forgot I'm planning on mating this triangle mid with a scanspeak R2904/7000. I haven't seen how much these go for but that might change when I see the price
No idea on the woofer yet.
Eternalightwithin
I like Scan-speak drivers. Speciafically the slitted paper and the carbon fber ones. They look good in everything but efficeincy is lower than what I was looking for. Seems like the better the other specs, the lower the SPL. so....
I was looking for another driver and I seemed to be fixated on the Triangle T17FLV608. Seems to have it all there and looks sexy to boot.
Anybody have experience with this driver? Compared to the vifa mid/bass drivers?
Planet10, any thoughts on how this might sound in an quarter wave resonator?
btw, awesome webpage. It great man.
ah, almost forgot I'm planning on mating this triangle mid with a scanspeak R2904/7000. I haven't seen how much these go for but that might change when I see the price
No idea on the woofer yet.
Eternalightwithin
errr, ok. forget that
Weellll.... 450 bucks. I think I'll pass on that one. What about the Raven R1?
I want to spend the most money on the midrange and less on the tweeters and woofers.
btw, I'm having trouble determining off axis response from most of these graphs.
I get it when they have two lines. one is on-axis and one is off-axis. I presume. But I get confused when they show three lines.
0 degrees is on axis right? So why 90 degress and 180 degrees?
Weellll.... 450 bucks. I think I'll pass on that one. What about the Raven R1?
I want to spend the most money on the midrange and less on the tweeters and woofers.
btw, I'm having trouble determining off axis response from most of these graphs.
I get it when they have two lines. one is on-axis and one is off-axis. I presume. But I get confused when they show three lines.
0 degrees is on axis right? So why 90 degress and 180 degrees?
Generally, the two lines mean on axis and 30 degrees off axis. Three lines mean on axis, 30 degrees off axis and 60 degrees off axis.
PS: I doubt that you would see a graph for 180 degrees off axis. That would be directly behind the speaker! 🙂
PS: I doubt that you would see a graph for 180 degrees off axis. That would be directly behind the speaker! 🙂
ahhh, yeah
I found the ATC 3'' for 500 USD. If you can get it for cheaper somewhere else that's different. I got that price from Wilmslow Audio ltd.
Not exactly what I wanted to spend. I'm hoping to keep the midrange under 200, a little bit more if it's exceptional.
tbla, I must say one thing though. I have little speaker experience, but DAMN! if I'm seeing the ATC (SM75.150S) graph right.... well, that's just about the most "ruler" straight response I've ever seen. It's impendence plot loots alittle spikey. That normal? 
P.S. Can you put two Wuater wave resonators in one box? ie. one for the midrange and another for the woofer?
I'll take it that this person did this....
www.t-linespeakers.org "Design/Foldings"
Classic 2-Fold Line -- front-terminus
Eternalightwithin
I found the ATC 3'' for 500 USD. If you can get it for cheaper somewhere else that's different. I got that price from Wilmslow Audio ltd.
Not exactly what I wanted to spend. I'm hoping to keep the midrange under 200, a little bit more if it's exceptional.
tbla, I must say one thing though. I have little speaker experience, but DAMN! if I'm seeing the ATC (SM75.150S) graph right.... well, that's just about the most "ruler" straight response I've ever seen.
It's impendence plot loots alittle spikey. That normal? P.S. Can you put two Wuater wave resonators in one box? ie. one for the midrange and another for the woofer?
I'll take it that this person did this....
www.t-linespeakers.org "Design/Foldings"
Classic 2-Fold Line -- front-terminus
Eternalightwithin
Re: ahhh, yeah
I have only heard good things about them... would like to try them. Petere Daniel uses Triangles.
Other options would be the Jordan JX92 or any of the Fostex 4-6" drivers.
The P13s are really good/
Thanx. Just wish i had more time to spend on it... i have a backlog of stuff that could easily double its size.
Sure you can. The simpliest mid line is a piece of pipe or sonotube out thru the back of the encloosure. Even better to build a separate set of boxes for the woofers thou and get them out of physical contact with the mids & tweeters.
The Ravens are a tweeter i'd like to try someday, for more reasonable money there are some really good VIFAs (and they get even better with suitable mods).
dave
EternaLightWith said:
I have only heard good things about them... would like to try them. Petere Daniel uses Triangles.
Other options would be the Jordan JX92 or any of the Fostex 4-6" drivers.
The P13s are really good/
Thanx. Just wish i had more time to spend on it... i have a backlog of stuff that could easily double its size.
Sure you can. The simpliest mid line is a piece of pipe or sonotube out thru the back of the encloosure. Even better to build a separate set of boxes for the woofers thou and get them out of physical contact with the mids & tweeters.
The Ravens are a tweeter i'd like to try someday, for more reasonable money there are some really good VIFAs (and they get even better with suitable mods).
dave
whew, lots of research
well. 12 hrs of research later. I'm pooped.
Well I'm looking around and it seems that all midrangers are
1. low SPL
2. Frequency response is a litte weak in the extremes
3. Student loans would be the last thing I would be concerned about.
4. Just so ugly I cringe looking at it.
So after looking at the
Audax HM130C0
Audax HM100Z2
ATD full midwoofer (17LB?)
Foxtex FE168EZ
FE208EZ
FF165K
Supravox 165LB
Focal Adiom 6WM
PHL 1060
PHL 1660
PHL 2520/2540
Whew, if you understood that, then you know your speakers well... lol, and now so do I
Anyways, that two that looked the most attractive were the Focal Adiom 6WM and the PHL 1660. But then I some hom ran into the PHL 2520. I think I'm in love.
It was at that point I decided to do a diyaudio search. 🙄
A lot of people were saying the the Focal Adiom 6WM have cross over troubles and weak 2kH range.
So I think I'm going to go with the PHL 2520. Any comments / critiques?
I like to keep is very KISS. Project going to be hard enough as it is.
I was thinking that I could get around the ok bass response by somehow using a TL for the 2520's to increase bass response.
Using two of them if I have too.
I plan to use a woofer as well. I already have a 200W push-pull subwoofer alreayd that I made 7 years ago.
That thing's a monster 2 by 2 by 3 ft. (2 Eminence 18')
Thanks Vance D.
So yeah, what sayest thou?
well. 12 hrs of research later. I'm pooped.
Well I'm looking around and it seems that all midrangers are
1. low SPL
2. Frequency response is a litte weak in the extremes
3. Student loans would be the last thing I would be concerned about.
4. Just so ugly I cringe looking at it.
So after looking at the
Audax HM130C0
Audax HM100Z2
ATD full midwoofer (17LB?)
Foxtex FE168EZ
FE208EZ
FF165K
Supravox 165LB
Focal Adiom 6WM
PHL 1060
PHL 1660
PHL 2520/2540
Whew, if you understood that, then you know your speakers well... lol, and now so do I
Anyways, that two that looked the most attractive were the Focal Adiom 6WM and the PHL 1660. But then I some hom ran into the PHL 2520. I think I'm in love.
It was at that point I decided to do a diyaudio search. 🙄
A lot of people were saying the the Focal Adiom 6WM have cross over troubles and weak 2kH range.
So I think I'm going to go with the PHL 2520. Any comments / critiques?
I like to keep is very KISS. Project going to be hard enough as it is.
I was thinking that I could get around the ok bass response by somehow using a TL for the 2520's to increase bass response.
Using two of them if I have too.
I plan to use a woofer as well. I already have a 200W push-pull subwoofer alreayd that I made 7 years ago.
That thing's a monster 2 by 2 by 3 ft. (2 Eminence 18')
Thanks Vance D.
So yeah, what sayest thou?
I use a pair of the Audax HM130C0 in an MTM with a SEAS excel tweet. A very good driver with crystal midrange and respectable bass (I crossover at 90Hz). Very easy to use too as there's no significant FR problems to deal with in the crossover.
I've never actually heard one, but the FR plot of the SEAS MP14RCY is about as flat as a pancake and only $40:
http://www.madisound.com/seas/h422.pdf
Nice one,
David.
I've never actually heard one, but the FR plot of the SEAS MP14RCY is about as flat as a pancake and only $40:
http://www.madisound.com/seas/h422.pdf
Nice one,
David.
Are there any Frequency response graphs of the PHL drivers? I can't find any!
If you haven't seen a frequency plot of the PHL 2520 I think you would be better of buying another driver...
If you haven't seen a frequency plot of the PHL 2520 I think you would be better of buying another driver...
I emailed them (PHL)
HAven't had a response yet, but from what I can gather, no one has the graph data. My guess is that PHL doesn't publish this data. Why is this bad though? I mean a lot of people highly reccomend these drivers and A lot of them are reccomended on LDSG. I think if we want the info we'll have to get it through a third party
eternalightwithin
HAven't had a response yet, but from what I can gather, no one has the graph data. My guess is that PHL doesn't publish this data. Why is this bad though? I mean a lot of people highly reccomend these drivers and A lot of them are reccomended on LDSG. I think if we want the info we'll have to get it through a third party
eternalightwithin
If you don't mind buying off eBay, you can usually find the JBL LE5-2 for pretty good prices. I have three of them that I've re-coned, and I'm very happy with them. They have the older AlNiCo magnet structure and are very efficient.
Cheers,
Zach
Cheers,
Zach
Thanks Amo,
I'm looking at the 5220/5240 but this is still very helpful. This from your own setup?
David
I'm looking at the 5220/5240 but this is still very helpful. This from your own setup?
David
rats
Why didn't I think of that. dunno, just assumed PHL would be more helpful directly, than third party. Should have know better.
David
Why didn't I think of that. dunno, just assumed PHL would be more helpful directly, than third party. Should have know better.
David
I'm worried about the following...
I'm kinda decided on the PHL 2520. Kinda of expensive though. Cause i'm thinking of using two of them.
I've been reading around about beaming and combing effects.
If I do put two of these together in some TL variant, am I asking for these problems. I guess I'm asking if I can avoid them? The reason I'm putting two together in some MTM or TMM config, is that the PHL2520 driver can be crossed over at 5kH but only 200Hz at the other end. By putting two together I was hoping to extend that down to 100Hz. This way I could smooth out any irregularities from the TL and at the same time, decrease Xmax at the low end. (100Hz - 200Hz)
My other concern is that this driver is 8''. Most midranges are 3''-4''. By having a driver that is 100-150% bigger, am I going to, as one fellow diyaudio memeber put it,
David
P.S. Planet10, you mentioned stuff about this in theBeaming thread Not done reading it yet. 😉
I'm kinda decided on the PHL 2520. Kinda of expensive though. Cause i'm thinking of using two of them.
I've been reading around about beaming and combing effects.
If I do put two of these together in some TL variant, am I asking for these problems. I guess I'm asking if I can avoid them? The reason I'm putting two together in some MTM or TMM config, is that the PHL2520 driver can be crossed over at 5kH but only 200Hz at the other end. By putting two together I was hoping to extend that down to 100Hz. This way I could smooth out any irregularities from the TL and at the same time, decrease Xmax at the low end. (100Hz - 200Hz)
My other concern is that this driver is 8''. Most midranges are 3''-4''. By having a driver that is 100-150% bigger, am I going to, as one fellow diyaudio memeber put it,
?
David
P.S. Planet10, you mentioned stuff about this in theBeaming thread Not done reading it yet. 😉
Re: I'm worried about the following...
2 or 20 aren't going to get you that close to 100 if 1 only gets you to 200 Hz... i still stand by my recommendation of the FE168ES... as a midrange you could just put it in a sealed box (8-16litres) and with 2 (arranged suitably) you wouldn't have to worry about bafflestep. You might have to XO a bit above 100 Hz althou if you rolled in the bass driver in 2nd order LR 100 should be OK (the big box [Q=0.5] is -6dB at 100).
dave
EternaLightWith said:
2 or 20 aren't going to get you that close to 100 if 1 only gets you to 200 Hz... i still stand by my recommendation of the FE168ES... as a midrange you could just put it in a sealed box (8-16litres) and with 2 (arranged suitably) you wouldn't have to worry about bafflestep. You might have to XO a bit above 100 Hz althou if you rolled in the bass driver in 2nd order LR 100 should be OK (the big box [Q=0.5] is -6dB at 100).
dave
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