I donnu for sure it is broken but I dismantled my 14" LCD monitor
and I tested it before I started to dismantle, and after I used it in
my test setup it wouldn't start anymore the backlight works, but
that's all. Not one photon is closed.
Maybe anybody can give me an adress were I can C for an used
or price for new driver panel for the Sampo PD-50FA
it's a Sharp panel maybe it's a standard used panel for many monitors.
pic included :
My TEST setup till now (still waiting on my fresnels and so) :
and I tested it before I started to dismantle, and after I used it in
my test setup it wouldn't start anymore the backlight works, but
that's all. Not one photon is closed.
Maybe anybody can give me an adress were I can C for an used
or price for new driver panel for the Sampo PD-50FA
it's a Sharp panel maybe it's a standard used panel for many monitors.
pic included :
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
My TEST setup till now (still waiting on my fresnels and so) :
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
hey, nice setup. where did you get that Light from? and how much did ypu pay for it? are you planning on using a reflector?
I went here to a light distributor and overpayed it tho, but still I needed it °-))
I live in Europe I ordered an 13.8" LCD one that somebody here
informed me about : info below
The light is an MH 400watt with 35.000-38.000 lumen (philips) 4000 celvin 10.000h lifetime.
Still need to find out how to connect the starter and condensors,
maybe it has discussed here alrdy but hey some threads are just
inpossible to find your needed info in, and to start reading
through 5000 reply's it's pretty hard, reading inhere alrdy for 2
months now. Maybe somone can help me to connect it right,
cause I don't wanna blow it up through trying.
LCD TFT
PIXEL PITCH 0.27 mm
RESOLUTION 1024 X 768
BRIGHTNESS 200 cd/m2 Typical
CONTRAST RATIO 300:1 Typical
DISPLAY COLORS 262K
RESPONSE TIME 10 ms
INTERFACE Analog R.G.B. 15 Pin D-sub
VIDEO INPUT SIGNAL Analog RGB video
VIEWABLE SIZE 13.8"
VIEWING ANGLE 140deg(H), 100 Deg(V)
USER CONTROLS All digital controls using an on-screen menu system
WEIGHT ~ 10 lbs.
These are my starter and condensors and ballast
Condensor :
- 1 x 4.5µF 250V 50/60Hertz
- 2 x 20µF 250V
Starter :
-
Ballast :
-
So if somebody can help me to get my bulb connected trough all
those condensors and ballast and starter, very much apriciated,
or an picture based site were I can follow it easy, I don't want to
take any risk with it ya C °-//
I live in Europe I ordered an 13.8" LCD one that somebody here
informed me about : info below
The light is an MH 400watt with 35.000-38.000 lumen (philips) 4000 celvin 10.000h lifetime.
Still need to find out how to connect the starter and condensors,
maybe it has discussed here alrdy but hey some threads are just
inpossible to find your needed info in, and to start reading
through 5000 reply's it's pretty hard, reading inhere alrdy for 2
months now. Maybe somone can help me to connect it right,
cause I don't wanna blow it up through trying.
LCD TFT
PIXEL PITCH 0.27 mm
RESOLUTION 1024 X 768
BRIGHTNESS 200 cd/m2 Typical
CONTRAST RATIO 300:1 Typical
DISPLAY COLORS 262K
RESPONSE TIME 10 ms
INTERFACE Analog R.G.B. 15 Pin D-sub
VIDEO INPUT SIGNAL Analog RGB video
VIEWABLE SIZE 13.8"
VIEWING ANGLE 140deg(H), 100 Deg(V)
USER CONTROLS All digital controls using an on-screen menu system
WEIGHT ~ 10 lbs.
These are my starter and condensors and ballast
Condensor :
- 1 x 4.5µF 250V 50/60Hertz
- 2 x 20µF 250V
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Starter :
-
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ballast :
-
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
So if somebody can help me to get my bulb connected trough all
those condensors and ballast and starter, very much apriciated,
or an picture based site were I can follow it easy, I don't want to
take any risk with it ya C °-//
why not ask the person who sold it to you?
http://kickme.to/diyvp i think he has your bulbs..try contacting him, he will reply slowly though...
http://kickme.to/diyvp i think he has your bulbs..try contacting him, he will reply slowly though...
Negative Design said:
Yeah the seller didn't knew were he was talking about it's a mirical he even found what I wanted hehe
kk thx, gonna try diyVP
Hehe, the schematic for the connection is on both the ignitor & the transformer. All you need to do is connect all components as shown on either of them (they are both the same) and connect the 'N' & 'L' points to your 220V.
The only better way to show you how to connect it is by doing it for you.🙂
The only better way to show you how to connect it is by doing it for you.🙂
ok you are absolutly right, only thing is I can't figure out were my
condensors need to come and how do I need to set them, parallel
or serie, and I am not a electronic dOOd so it's twice as hard for
me. 🙂
Is it were the 2.5 ... 8 Kv are printed were the condensors need to come only thing then is, parallel or in serie I guess to get 45µm I need to put them in parrallel ?
Cause I have one 4.5µm and two 20µm I need to have 45µm
condensors need to come and how do I need to set them, parallel
or serie, and I am not a electronic dOOd so it's twice as hard for
me. 🙂
Is it were the 2.5 ... 8 Kv are printed were the condensors need to come only thing then is, parallel or in serie I guess to get 45µm I need to put them in parrallel ?
Cause I have one 4.5µm and two 20µm I need to have 45µm
The schematic on the transformer is the easiest to understand, but it doesn't show the capacitor(s). You should connect the capacitor(s) between the 'L' and the 'N' as shown on the ignitor. If you have more than 1 capacitor connect them in parralel to the 'N' and 'L'.
and Rapsac to be for 100% sure, this is parralel right ?
yeah I guess it is, in a sec I get a slap to ask such stupid questions 🙂
And your right I tried the picture on the pieces and I get it
connected, later this night I go try to light the bulb when the
capacitorS are connected.
But now still I dunno how I can test that LCD out, I am almost
sure it is broken pff, the backlight can it be disconnected to use
the LCD ? tried it with and without tho, but in the future.
Mailed to Sharp but they tell me they only give support on pieces
they sold.
yeah I guess it is, in a sec I get a slap to ask such stupid questions 🙂
And your right I tried the picture on the pieces and I get it
connected, later this night I go try to light the bulb when the
capacitorS are connected.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
But now still I dunno how I can test that LCD out, I am almost
sure it is broken pff, the backlight can it be disconnected to use
the LCD ? tried it with and without tho, but in the future.
Mailed to Sharp but they tell me they only give support on pieces
they sold.
usefull or not ?
this is the guts of a projector, for a 70V direct power light bulb
NOT alternating power, so I need to find a transformation
adapter to get the home 220V alternating power to direct 70V
power.
It will make my projector allot smaller and less heat I think, but
will I have enough lumen, will find out I guess, it was just to
intresting to leave it, so I took it with me.
this is the guts of a projector, for a 70V direct power light bulb
NOT alternating power, so I need to find a transformation
adapter to get the home 220V alternating power to direct 70V
power.
It will make my projector allot smaller and less heat I think, but
will I have enough lumen, will find out I guess, it was just to
intresting to leave it, so I took it with me.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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