As the title says I am am struggling to find a 2 Ohm stable >250 wRMS class-d amp with power supply.
I haven't seen an ICEpower module with power stable to 2 Ohms at >250 wRMS. I saw something on PartsExpress that was 1x170 but it was a bridged 2x50 watt amp so I doubt it was 2 Ohm compatible.
Didn't see one one Connexelectronic as all of theirs are separate power and amp.
And as a DIY'er I can't buy the OEM Hypex stuff.
Any ideas or suggestions?
I haven't seen an ICEpower module with power stable to 2 Ohms at >250 wRMS. I saw something on PartsExpress that was 1x170 but it was a bridged 2x50 watt amp so I doubt it was 2 Ohm compatible.
Didn't see one one Connexelectronic as all of theirs are separate power and amp.
And as a DIY'er I can't buy the OEM Hypex stuff.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Picked this up from Steve at apexjr.com and it has 2x 4 ohm woofers and I am trying not to have to put them in series.
I made a back plate to use it passively until I find the right amp and then I will have an aluminum rear plate made with per input, amp and rca connector.
Yes that is the protective wrap still on the enclosure!!!
He has a few more if anyone is interested.
I made a back plate to use it passively until I find the right amp and then I will have an aluminum rear plate made with per input, amp and rca connector.
Yes that is the protective wrap still on the enclosure!!!
He has a few more if anyone is interested.
Why not?
It will work exactly the same (I guess both speakers are same tpe and model) and it will simplify your task enormously.
The practical worldwide standard *is* 8 ohm speakers and amps for them.
EDIT: can you straight link to them?
I couldn´t find them at Apex.
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Is it the 3 ohm and 2.7 ohm ratings that worry you on the Icepower AS series?
Seems to me I had an Icepower module that was 2 ohm rated and had the power you want, but I can't remember that it was. Mono block, I think. Sure did like it.
Seems to me I had an Icepower module that was 2 ohm rated and had the power you want, but I can't remember that it was. Mono block, I think. Sure did like it.
1. According to you specs, you need a 65V rail to rail (+/- 32VDC) amp. Most amplifiers are easy to current boost to whatever current you require by adding parallel outputs, or slave current dumper transistors. It may get complicated with class-D because gate drive may not be enough for more FETs. FET gates are a capacitance that has to be charged and dumped real fast.
2. Not sure I understand what's wrong with Hypex if you are not into doing your own design from scratch.
3. Your requirements sound a lot like automotive subs. You could buy a auto sub amp and either a 12V power supply or rip out the 12V->65V inverter and replace it with a mains driven supply. Actually, they could probably co-exist and just parallel them.
4. Other options include separate amps for each speaker. Certainly separate speaker cables is a good idea, even if they connect to the same output. I once "fixed" a repeated failure buy stripping one side of a bridged pair and paralleling the drivers and outputs with the positive side so that the amp could produce twice the current at half the voltage. An amp that can't handle lower impedance loads is never a good idea because customers always push it; abuse them.
5. So I suppose it's about whether what you want to do is make PCBs and chassis or avoid that by buying them ready made, or repurposing an existing chassis and maybe power supply. In my youth I was in the habit of tearing everything down to bits but I now think it's a better idea to reuse whatever you can, more like automotive hot-rod builders.
2. Not sure I understand what's wrong with Hypex if you are not into doing your own design from scratch.
3. Your requirements sound a lot like automotive subs. You could buy a auto sub amp and either a 12V power supply or rip out the 12V->65V inverter and replace it with a mains driven supply. Actually, they could probably co-exist and just parallel them.
4. Other options include separate amps for each speaker. Certainly separate speaker cables is a good idea, even if they connect to the same output. I once "fixed" a repeated failure buy stripping one side of a bridged pair and paralleling the drivers and outputs with the positive side so that the amp could produce twice the current at half the voltage. An amp that can't handle lower impedance loads is never a good idea because customers always push it; abuse them.
5. So I suppose it's about whether what you want to do is make PCBs and chassis or avoid that by buying them ready made, or repurposing an existing chassis and maybe power supply. In my youth I was in the habit of tearing everything down to bits but I now think it's a better idea to reuse whatever you can, more like automotive hot-rod builders.
I went rummage through the garage and I found some amps I bought a while ago.
200 into 4 ohms and a 500W power supply. So I will see if I can put one amp on each driver.
I was hoping for an all in one unit to make the aluminum cnc work less involved but it's looking like a 3 pcb solution.
Still open to other suggestions.
And the hypex 500 all in one would be prefect but it's oem only so unobtainium.
200 into 4 ohms and a 500W power supply. So I will see if I can put one amp on each driver.
I was hoping for an all in one unit to make the aluminum cnc work less involved but it's looking like a 3 pcb solution.
Still open to other suggestions.
And the hypex 500 all in one would be prefect but it's oem only so unobtainium.
They are not on his website. I was in LA a couple of weeks ago and stopped by to meet the man I have been “knowing” for >10yrs and saw them.
Assembled the amps to try with the passive sub.
I do audio as 2 channel so any evaluation will have to wait for a movie.
I do audio as 2 channel so any evaluation will have to wait for a movie.
If you can find 250ASP module (Parts Express doesn't sell those, at least not anymore), it is rated 300W at 2.7 ohms. Given that the limitation is output current, that would be sqrt(300/2.7)=10.541 amps. Same current into 2ohms is sqr(10.541)*2=222.2Watts. It's not 250 watts, but the difference is all of half a dB, doubt you'd miss it.
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