Take a look at teh FaitalPRO 12RS1066
https://faitalpro.com/en/products/LF_Loudspeakers/product_details/index.php?id=201050125
I would think one of the best Pro units to fit the 12" sub bill
https://faitalpro.com/en/products/LF_Loudspeakers/product_details/index.php?id=201050125
I would think one of the best Pro units to fit the 12" sub bill
Not a bad driver, but a bit more expensive than the 12TBX100 and not as efficient (only 91 dB/W vs 93), which helps with pushing it harder to lower cutoff with EQ. The Faital's higher Qts will make for lower bass in a bigger vented box than the B&C, but sort of defeats the purpose aiming for a LF boosted smaller sealed box design.
Was looking at this thread again and fredygump, I'm not really sue what you want to achieve?
You have a really nice 12" coax as a starting point.
Do you want the extra front woofer to ad slam to the sound? I would have thought that the 12" coax would already be good in that department!
How low do you want to go overall?
Will you drive the sub with a dedicated amplifier (recommended).
If you go closed for the sub(s) you'll need much more cone area (ca double up).
I think I would let the coax have a little more volume to breath, and cross it over at say 70-100 Hz
I would have 2 x 12" long throw subs or 1-2 more of the 10" you already uses, to do the bottom end. You need enough output at what ever f3 you go for to match the capability of the coax.
Also:
Subwoofer in pro audio, means 18" or higher ... 12" is a mid bass 😉
You have a really nice 12" coax as a starting point.
Do you want the extra front woofer to ad slam to the sound? I would have thought that the 12" coax would already be good in that department!
How low do you want to go overall?
Will you drive the sub with a dedicated amplifier (recommended).
If you go closed for the sub(s) you'll need much more cone area (ca double up).
I think I would let the coax have a little more volume to breath, and cross it over at say 70-100 Hz
I would have 2 x 12" long throw subs or 1-2 more of the 10" you already uses, to do the bottom end. You need enough output at what ever f3 you go for to match the capability of the coax.
Also:
Subwoofer in pro audio, means 18" or higher ... 12" is a mid bass 😉
I have explained more in other threads, but the project started out with the idea of building something like the Genelec W371A. That is a tall cabinet holding 2 low frequency drivers, and you put your "The Ones" speakers on top. The cabinet turns the small monitors into big monitors.
When I saw the design, I saw potential to use this configuration in a multiple subwoofer system, but with all the subwoofers built into the main speakers. And I tested and found that the rear firing sub plus raised front firing woofer do interact with the room differently, so the multiple subwoofer system can work without having subwoofers placed around the room.
The Genelec W371A uses a 12" rear firing, ported, high excursion sub, and a 14" (nominal 15") sealed front firing woofer. But since I'm making home audio speakers, I want smaller/ shorter cabinets. So I decided to scale it down using a 10" sub with a 12" woofer.
Then I realized that it would be really easy to add a coaxial driver to make this speaker full range. And the 12" coaxials were suggested in another thread.
The 10" woofers go from 20hz to 100hz summed. The 12" front woofer currently go from 50hz to 100hz (summed) + 100-200hz (stereo). The coaxial woofer is 200-1200hz, and the horn is 1200+.
The B&C coax starts to roll off at ~200hz. Simulating different box volume had minimal affect on this roll off.
I originally wanted the front firing woofers to go as low as possible, and the passive radiators got me down to ~30hz. But then I had a huge response peak from 30-40hz that I had to aggressively EQ out. It took me a long time to realize that rolling the front woofer off at ~50hz would fix this issue. That is counter intuitive, because everyone knows that you use multiple subwoofers to fix low frequency modes...and good subs play to 20hz...so rolling off at 50hz feels a lot like abandoning the multiple subwoofer idea.
But I've observed and heard others mention that frequencies in the 20-40(?)hz range are effectively absorbed by sheetrock and building structure, so I don't need 4 woofers playing down to 20hz to get flat response down to 20hz. It may not be the same in every room, but it seems to work in my case.
To your point about a 12" not being a subwoofer, yes, I know. I didn't post this in the subwoofer forum! It was moved here by a mod.
Sorry did not see other threads on this ....
Ok I see, makes sense. I't a bit like what Willson audio have done for a long time with 2 different size woofers in the biggest system ... though not with rear / front, and high low mounting.
I would think it matters also to have the sub sitting low in the box and the woofer sitting higher .... will interact with the room differently.
for Genelec, the W371A will for sure also add a good extra slam and kick to the Ones.
Ok I see, makes sense. I't a bit like what Willson audio have done for a long time with 2 different size woofers in the biggest system ... though not with rear / front, and high low mounting.
I would think it matters also to have the sub sitting low in the box and the woofer sitting higher .... will interact with the room differently.
for Genelec, the W371A will for sure also add a good extra slam and kick to the Ones.
Yes but no.
Not a subwoofer but the Tannoy K3148 has an accordion surround and an Fs of 29Hz.
As for current subs there is the BMS 12S330 which gets an F3 of 32Hz out of a 60L ported box. Sensitivity as stated is misleading though, think 91dB instead of 96.
Overview
Does this Wilson Audio speaker use DSP correction? Because that is the key to making my setup work. I'm using a combination of EQ and delays to get a flat response. The delays do most of the work, but I can fine tune with EQ. Of course using EQ to fix one area will negatively affect another aree of the room, so I'm trying to get as close as possible with delays.
I plan to do a build thread once I build the finished speaker. I have posted to ask questions relating to various aspects of the design, but I don't expect anyone to have seen the other posts.