Other options:
- use a router to create a recess
- cut a hole and mount the jacks on sheet metal or PC board stock. Screw and RTV it in place.
- Order a metal or plastic terminal cup that screws into a hole and provides a recessed mounting location for jacks and binding posts. MCM & Parts Express should have them. Some come prepunched for popular audio connectors.
Switchcraft makes (or made) some very long 1/4" jacks, but I don't remember ever seeing a comparable RCA jack.
- use a router to create a recess
- cut a hole and mount the jacks on sheet metal or PC board stock. Screw and RTV it in place.
- Order a metal or plastic terminal cup that screws into a hole and provides a recessed mounting location for jacks and binding posts. MCM & Parts Express should have them. Some come prepunched for popular audio connectors.
Switchcraft makes (or made) some very long 1/4" jacks, but I don't remember ever seeing a comparable RCA jack.
take a look at this , thats what i'm gonna do with my wooden enclosure , just beautiful
http://oldheadphones.com/crystal/info/tubeamp.htm
http://oldheadphones.com/crystal/info/tubeamp.htm
if 1.5" long stem is good for you
http://cgi.ebay.com/GOLD-PLATED-SPE...hZ018QQcategoryZ48717QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
also has the neutrik rca
http://cgi.ebay.com/GOLD-PLATED-SPE...hZ018QQcategoryZ48717QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
also has the neutrik rca
Originally posted by vonfilm
Those Neutrics look interesting, but where do I find a 23.6mm(.93) Forstner bit? Why didn't they make it 7/8" or 1"?
Well, if you use a 1" bit you'll have a clearance of just under a millimeter all around, which I'd regard as reasonable for working in wood. If you want tighter tolerances, a 15/16" bit (if you have one) would give you an order of magnitude less clearance, which I personally wouldn't find necessary: YMMV, of course.
Regards.
Aengus
Aengus,
I am sure you are right about the drill bit size for the Neutrics.
Everyone who answered my inquiry here had some great ideas that I would like to try in the future.
On Sunday, I got out my Dremel tool and inletted the rca jacks and stepped ladder attenuators into the wooden cigar box that I am using for the case to my B1 Pre-Amp. You can see pictures of it there in posts #1018, and #1019. It was a lot more work but I was able to use the parts on hand.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1697753#post1697753
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1697755#post1697755
I am sure you are right about the drill bit size for the Neutrics.
Everyone who answered my inquiry here had some great ideas that I would like to try in the future.
On Sunday, I got out my Dremel tool and inletted the rca jacks and stepped ladder attenuators into the wooden cigar box that I am using for the case to my B1 Pre-Amp. You can see pictures of it there in posts #1018, and #1019. It was a lot more work but I was able to use the parts on hand.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1697753#post1697753
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1697755#post1697755
On Sunday, I got out my Dremel tool and inletted the rca jacks and stepped ladder attenuators into the wooden cigar box that I am using for the case to my B1 Pre-Amp. You can see pictures of it there in posts #1018, and #1019. It was a lot more work but I was able to use the parts on hand.
And a very nice-looking solution it is.
When I was a kid, there were still books with titles like "101 Things for Boys To Do" which leaned heavily on the presumed availability of cigar boxes, but they were becoming less common even then, at least among my acquaintances. Nice to see that this approach is still in use occasionally.
Regards.
Aengus
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