Hi,
I just cleaned and adjusted tonearm bearings. Looks like I found that nice spot where it is spins as light as possible right before having any play. My question is if I need to use some thread lock between pivot screws and lock nuts, or it is an over kill? I see that there were some transparent glue from the factory. Thanks
I just cleaned and adjusted tonearm bearings. Looks like I found that nice spot where it is spins as light as possible right before having any play. My question is if I need to use some thread lock between pivot screws and lock nuts, or it is an over kill? I see that there were some transparent glue from the factory. Thanks
Use a slow setting rubber cement, I think Pliobond is one brand.
It is easy to remove with solvent or mild heat.
Some Japanese camera lenses used a thread lock which came off with acetone, similar to nail polish.
But acetone damages most plastics.
Silicon can be hard to remove, also most thread locks, those are for places you can use a spanner, a tone arm is not in that class.
Shoe repair adhesive works well enough, also carpenter's white glue (PVA Emulsion)
Use either, strong enough to prevent screws vibrating loose, but weak enough to remove without too much force.
It is easy to remove with solvent or mild heat.
Some Japanese camera lenses used a thread lock which came off with acetone, similar to nail polish.
But acetone damages most plastics.
Silicon can be hard to remove, also most thread locks, those are for places you can use a spanner, a tone arm is not in that class.
Shoe repair adhesive works well enough, also carpenter's white glue (PVA Emulsion)
Use either, strong enough to prevent screws vibrating loose, but weak enough to remove without too much force.
Thank you, I got the idea! So with all those adhesives do you put it in the threads or just a drop on the top of the screw and getting it soak into the threads itself?
The torques involved are very small, a locknut isn't going to move anyway, its a locknut!
Any vibration enough to loosen a locknut will probably shatter the arm bearing first as its got the whole mass of the arm stressing it. The locknut is a few milligrams...
If there's an adjustment screw without a locknut, that's a candidate for a little adhesive.
Any vibration enough to loosen a locknut will probably shatter the arm bearing first as its got the whole mass of the arm stressing it. The locknut is a few milligrams...
If there's an adjustment screw without a locknut, that's a candidate for a little adhesive.
Put the adhesive on the threads, where the nut will be during use.
Then move the nut into position. (Or screw, either way a threaded fastener).
Slow setting adhesive allows you to make adjustments before the glue dries, most thread locks set within seconds as they are for production and repair use. You won't be able to do much adjustment, and removing them is not so easy on a tone arm.
Loctite publicity material had pictures of their product filling up the gaps in threaded fasteners, saying it was better than using Teflon tape.
The idea here that the gap between screw and nut threads is filled, and the mild adhesive increases the torque needed to loosen the threads, so that keeps the adjusted fasteners in their intended position.
Frankly, a tone arm is very unlikely to vibrate loose, but given that they are mostly out of production, a match head of adhesive is worth the advantage of protecting the settings.
Then move the nut into position. (Or screw, either way a threaded fastener).
Slow setting adhesive allows you to make adjustments before the glue dries, most thread locks set within seconds as they are for production and repair use. You won't be able to do much adjustment, and removing them is not so easy on a tone arm.
Loctite publicity material had pictures of their product filling up the gaps in threaded fasteners, saying it was better than using Teflon tape.
The idea here that the gap between screw and nut threads is filled, and the mild adhesive increases the torque needed to loosen the threads, so that keeps the adjusted fasteners in their intended position.
Frankly, a tone arm is very unlikely to vibrate loose, but given that they are mostly out of production, a match head of adhesive is worth the advantage of protecting the settings.
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Rubber solution has solvent based compounds that can damage plastics...so use wood glue on plastic fasteners you intend to open later.
And in any case do not use them in a room without ventilation until they set, the evaporated compounds can damage the finish on turn table covers for example.
And in any case do not use them in a room without ventilation until they set, the evaporated compounds can damage the finish on turn table covers for example.
Of all the turntables over the decades that I've serviced for customers, I've never had to use any glue with the tonearm lock nuts.
based on me working on cars, some places require either one time use bolts/nuts or thread lock. Seeing glue on factory bolts that was my first question. I am so happy I asked and can see multiple opinions. Love our community!
lcsaszar, I am impressed with 2004 join date! 🙂
lcsaszar, I am impressed with 2004 join date! 🙂
Don't use Loctite since when You need to adjust it again You will break / dent the tiny screw.
Use something more screwdriver friendly. My Pioneer TT had a transparent glue.
Perhaps some type of varnish.
Use something more screwdriver friendly. My Pioneer TT had a transparent glue.
Perhaps some type of varnish.
Worrying if these locknuts come loose is kind of silly.
Once properly set, they don't move.
Enough with the glues and slop, forget it.
Once properly set, they don't move.
Enough with the glues and slop, forget it.