Yeah, somewhere in this thread, I do believe that SOMEBODY suggested going with a separate solution for deep bass.Later on in this very same thread, I believe there was another somebody who suggested that there existed quite a few somebodies who offered you sage advice, but I will admit, it's difficult to separate all the somebodies apart from one another. That, takes time and a lot of reading.

Yeah, somewhere in this thread, I do believe that SOMEBODY suggested going with a separate solution for deep bass.Later on in this very same thread, I believe there was another somebody who suggested that there existed quite a few somebodies who offered you sage advice, but I will admit, it's difficult to separate all the somebodies apart from one another. That, takes time and a lot of reading.
It's a discussion board, i'd expect tons of opinions and advices 🙂
But if i listened to all of them, i'd have 3-way scan-speak speakers by now or anything from the well-beaten track. Which i don't necessarily want.
As far as the separate deep bass is concerned, do you mean by that a 4th way? or physical separate enclosure(s) ?
a 4th way, i already have that with my actual 10 y.o. speakers. Just wanted to explore the possibility to return to 3-way. I know now it won't be possible. Well, yeah, it's possible, and probably 99% of people would be darn well happy with the bass that comes out of 6x 18FH500 (!) but i learned in my audiophile/DIYer life that 30hz and downward is more important than what people thinks. I just don't want to take risks and end short in that region.
Just to make things even clearer:
''not being happy'' with 6x EQd 18FH500 as the sub/woofers in a domestic audio system, is much like not being happy with a McLaren 675LT on a racetrack. You know damn well it's good and gives you plenty of enjoyment.
But you have your eyes on the Mclaren P1, or the LaFerrari or the Porsche 918. Or just some kind of racetrack dedicated car...
I'll probably keep my new speakers for another 10 years, i just want the most exciting ones possible. 🙂
''not being happy'' with 6x EQd 18FH500 as the sub/woofers in a domestic audio system, is much like not being happy with a McLaren 675LT on a racetrack. You know damn well it's good and gives you plenty of enjoyment.
But you have your eyes on the Mclaren P1, or the LaFerrari or the Porsche 918. Or just some kind of racetrack dedicated car...
I'll probably keep my new speakers for another 10 years, i just want the most exciting ones possible. 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The two drivers load the room differently than a single driver, you may want to do a more apples to apples comparison by disabling one of the JL drivers. BL on the 18FH500 is not very high, I wouldn't expect this driver to do well in a small box.
12PR300 is a nice low/mid driver Faital Pro put a lot of engineering work into their cones, I built a decent sounding 2-way monitor with it. Using AVR bass management high pass @ 90 Hz keeps excursion very low at war volume, 2 sets of ear pro are required when feeding it 150v p-p.
Looks like a heck of a driver. There's an OEM variant on the cheap (looks like a softer suspension and possibly some coil tweaking) here:
https://avatarspeakers.com/shop/speakers/faital-neo-12pr300/
that might be a good option. I'd probably try a little cone damping (diluted PVA glue works well) as there's definitely some breakup that could use a little damping. It doesn't add much mass, a few grams at most, but tends to soften the top end and smooth response somewhat (at the expense of a little efficiency and some other slight changes). I suspect that the difficulty of getting such methods consistent is why it's not done more often. It usually takes me a couple hours of work/waiting to do cone coatings correctly but it's mostly just going slow and observing carefully to judge saturation and consistency. 2:1 water/PVA and a very thin, flat brush is a good starting point- a very thin coating lets you see how much is absorbed and how it reacts without, in itself, making much change at all to the driver. 2nd thin coat starts to show a little effect, 3-4 and you're into some meaningful but not drastic differences. Lots of drying time since you're dealing with wetness and paper. Thin and slow, you're not looking to swamp the thing just tweak it a bit for changes measured in the 1-2dB range.
MCM has a good price on the regular version.
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Interesting choices here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/301980-12s-15s-100hz-500hz-high-sensitivity-low-mms.html
12PR300 but also the Ciare 12NDH3
both over 10cm² per gr. SD/Mms but the Ciare's BL is much higher and also higher Xmax.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/301980-12s-15s-100hz-500hz-high-sensitivity-low-mms.html
12PR300 but also the Ciare 12NDH3
both over 10cm² per gr. SD/Mms but the Ciare's BL is much higher and also higher Xmax.
I would not coat the cone on this (Faital) driver personally, but I have done other subwoofer drivers, I used an acrylic clear made to protect art/paintings with good results.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The two drivers load the room differently than a single driver, you may want to do a more apples to apples comparison by disabling one of the JL drivers. BL on the 18FH500 is not very high, I wouldn't expect this driver to do well in a small box.
Like i said, the 18FH500 is an excellent, very capable driver. But it wouldnt be my first choice for the 20-30hz, even though i was optimistic about it (EQing...)
and, funny enough, the 10W7 wouldnt either! 😱
I'm still amazed by the W7 series capabilities, those are truly wonderful pieces of engineering, but i'd rather go with the W6v3 series, as i can push them higher by at least ½ octave, which can be useful. If it were strictly for 20-35hz or so, i'd go with a pair of 13W7, but since i'd like to keep some margin to play with, i'll go with 12W6v3 (already got a pair) i can't go wrong with it.
I have a pair of 18FH500 and I plan to use them in a slot loaded subwoofer design.
Slot loading should be able to reduce the Fs by 5-6hz.
Slot loading should be able to reduce the Fs by 5-6hz.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Tests continues...
baffleless 18FH500 works very well from 80hz, so i guess with even a minimalistic baffle i'll reach 70hz, which is perfect to meet the 12W6...
So i think we have a winner here: a return to the 6x 18FH500 plan. Unless i look for other OB contenders that could do better in the 100-500hz bandwith.
Very very enjoyable result with this somewhat weird combo 18FH500+hornless 950PBbe+3FE22, can't wait to try that with a line of RAAL. 😱


But seriously, just the thought of having six 18FH500 in my living room, that's kind of scary. GOOD scary, though. 🙂
Not officially confirmed, but the ingredients for the recipe of my new pair of speakers will look like that:
(2) Radian 950PB (Be or Al)
(4) JL audio 12W6v3
(6) Faital Pro 18FH500
(18) RAAL 64-10
Probable crossing points: 90hz/450hz/3800hz
OB + sealed enclosure for the subwoofers
DEQX + nanoDIGI
Forssell DAC (at least a 2 ch. for the tweeters and hopefully more channels)
That should provide few nights of listening pleasure.
(2) Radian 950PB (Be or Al)
(4) JL audio 12W6v3
(6) Faital Pro 18FH500
(18) RAAL 64-10
Probable crossing points: 90hz/450hz/3800hz
OB + sealed enclosure for the subwoofers
DEQX + nanoDIGI
Forssell DAC (at least a 2 ch. for the tweeters and hopefully more channels)
That should provide few nights of listening pleasure.
Forssell DAC (at least a 2 ch. for the tweeters and hopefully more channels)
No S**T?
Damn Jon... so much drivers ! You are making a Beolab...😀
lol
forgot to mention i'll ICEpower the whole thing. Woops, ICEpower is not anymore B&O's property...
I don't like the look of the Beolab, I don't understand why so many people like how it looks !Don't know about the sound though !
Have you finally tried a compression driver without the back cover (not the Beyrilium for the all the good reasons but the other Radian) ? -Here the Bastanis, courtesey of Internet - 6MoonsAudio...
Have you finally tried a compression driver without the back cover (not the Beyrilium for the all the good reasons but the other Radian) ? -Here the Bastanis, courtesey of Internet - 6MoonsAudio...

any update?Not officially confirmed, but the ingredients for the recipe of my new pair of speakers will look like that:
(2) Radian 950PB (Be or Al)
(4) JL audio 12W6v3
(6) Faital Pro 18FH500
(18) RAAL 64-10
Probable crossing points: 90hz/450hz/3800hz
OB + sealed enclosure for the subwoofers
DEQX + nanoDIGI
Forssell DAC (at least a 2 ch. for the tweeters and hopefully more channels)
That should provide few nights of listening pleasure.
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