learned that from a retired radio repair man
don't has to be the expensive one from Bayer ... actually I don't think its the aspirin itself which does the job, might be that the pill's basic substance turns into some sort of acid when hot (fumes sting in the lungs when inhaled, so don't);
if that's the case, any similar pill with "safe" ingrediances might also work.
I use an old rugged iron by the way ...
This article just popped up.
'Litz Wire & Other Component Cleverness'
Bill Schweber, Engineer, Author, Editor, 5/7/2013
Planet Analog - Analog Angle - Litz Wire & Other Component Cleverness
'Litz Wire & Other Component Cleverness'
Bill Schweber, Engineer, Author, Editor, 5/7/2013
Planet Analog - Analog Angle - Litz Wire & Other Component Cleverness
Litz wire is a profound PITA from several aspects (I know, I use it all the time in my SMPS job), so in SMPS applications, it should be used only when absolutely necessary. Applications where needed - inductors with large AC flux swing, as in transition mode power factor correctors, also inductors with large AC flux components and large gaps, where the fringing flux might otherwise heat up the wires adjacent to the gap. It's also necessary for integrated transformers used in LLC resonant converters to avoid eddy current losses from the fringing flux between windings.
To use Litz wire practically, it needs to be constructed with wire having a solderable coating, so that it can be terminated with a soldering iron or solder pot. Normal enameled wire won't do (you won't find enameled wire these days, anyway). Nylon/polyurethane and some polyester coatings are suitable. Old-style enamel, formvar, or polythermaleze (polyimide) are not. The polythermaleze can be stripped with chemicals, but its a PITA, again, and it's hard to remove all the stripper and avoid wicking.
To use Litz wire practically, it needs to be constructed with wire having a solderable coating, so that it can be terminated with a soldering iron or solder pot. Normal enameled wire won't do (you won't find enameled wire these days, anyway). Nylon/polyurethane and some polyester coatings are suitable. Old-style enamel, formvar, or polythermaleze (polyimide) are not. The polythermaleze can be stripped with chemicals, but its a PITA, again, and it's hard to remove all the stripper and avoid wicking.
I'd be interested to know if the aspirin trick mentiond earlier in this thread works with enameled wire - rather nifty if it does. I have a few rolls of old-style enameled magnet wire in my stock that I have to prepare for soldering by scraping off the insulation with a knife or sandpaper (a PITA, and you run the danger of nicking the wire).
BTW, Aspirin is an ester of salycilic acid with acetic acid - the acetic acid bonds to the hydroxyl group on the salycilic acid. I would imagine you get the two parent acids plus various and sundry other decompostion nasties when you heat the aspirin sufficiently.
BTW, Aspirin is an ester of salycilic acid with acetic acid - the acetic acid bonds to the hydroxyl group on the salycilic acid. I would imagine you get the two parent acids plus various and sundry other decompostion nasties when you heat the aspirin sufficiently.
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Oh for Pete's sake. Get a solder pot and some flux. If you're working with wire at all, you should be pre-tinning even the non-enameled stuff.
EDIT: Missed the "old-style." So change that to "Oh for Pete's sake. Get some new magnet wire." Or get one of those fiberglass brushes from Eraser.
se
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