Hello there,
I'm in the progress of building myself a diy record cleaner, and making a fair amount of cleaning liquid to use with this machine.
The building of the cleaner is going excellent, but as for the cleaning solution, I'm having problems finding "Triton x-114".
The closest thing, the one distributer who was willing to sell me this kind of stuff had, was "Triton x-110".
My question - Is there a segnificant difference between x-114 and x-110? Thus, can I use what he's willing to sell me? If not, Is there another way you can offer me for finding this Triton x-114?
Another thing on the same subject, once I have Triton x... and starting to compose the solution, how many drops of the Triton should I apply to 1 liter of distilled water.
Many thanks
Amit
I'm in the progress of building myself a diy record cleaner, and making a fair amount of cleaning liquid to use with this machine.
The building of the cleaner is going excellent, but as for the cleaning solution, I'm having problems finding "Triton x-114".
The closest thing, the one distributer who was willing to sell me this kind of stuff had, was "Triton x-110".
My question - Is there a segnificant difference between x-114 and x-110? Thus, can I use what he's willing to sell me? If not, Is there another way you can offer me for finding this Triton x-114?
Another thing on the same subject, once I have Triton x... and starting to compose the solution, how many drops of the Triton should I apply to 1 liter of distilled water.
Many thanks
Amit
From what I remember, it is triton x100 that I saw recommended for use in this application.
Like you, I couldn't find it too easily, although I work in a lab, so I used 20mLs per litre (i.e. 50:1) of rinse aid as a wetting agent. Works very well and does not leave a residue.
My typical mix is 1.5L 18Mohm RO water, 500mLs propan-2-ol (isopropanol/isopropyl alcohol) and then the rinse aid, in the above example 40mLs.
A RCM is a great project, fantastic results are achieved for very little money.
Enjoy,
Fran
Like you, I couldn't find it too easily, although I work in a lab, so I used 20mLs per litre (i.e. 50:1) of rinse aid as a wetting agent. Works very well and does not leave a residue.
My typical mix is 1.5L 18Mohm RO water, 500mLs propan-2-ol (isopropanol/isopropyl alcohol) and then the rinse aid, in the above example 40mLs.
A RCM is a great project, fantastic results are achieved for very little money.
Enjoy,
Fran
Hi,
As far as I can tell, the triton/rinse aid is only used as a wetting agent, and not as a detergent in the normal sense. It allows the liquid to get down into the grooves. From what I can reason out, the water dissolves a lot of gunk and what it can't get, the alcohol will get out.
Know that you will acheive great results on most ones you clean, OK results on a few and then there will be some that no matter what you do, you will not get them clean! Also be aware that of course if the record is phyically damaged, then cleaning won't improve matters.
On the design of the rcm, mine only rotates in one direction and at about 20rpm (which is about what the commercial ones seem to run at). I made a hold down clamp 95mm wide fitted with a rubber o-ring at its outside edge so that the label is sealed and the cleaning liquid can't get in at it. One switch for rotate, the other for vacuum. My motor is a geared 100rpm motor salvaged from scrap and the vacuum is from an old vacuum cleaner. I put in a bottle trap so that if any liquid should build up then it won't get to the vacuum motor. So far I have never seen any liquid in it - it just evaporates in the airstream. On extended cleaning sessions the vacuum motor can get pretty warm.
My regime is like this:
Clamp on the lp, apply some liquid with a paintbrush. Allow it to sit for a few minutes. Turn on the RCM with the cleaning brush in place (again a paintbrush, 100mm wide and synthetic) allow it to brush for say 20 revolutions (about 1 min). Suck off the fluid. Then I repeat this again. If it isn't clean after this then it won't ever be. Make sure you leave the vacuum on for long enough to get all the liquid off (especially after the second clean) - theres no point in leaving it there to evaporate and deposit whatever solids it had dissolved! If you look across the lp as it is being sucked dry, you will see it dry and the surface change. On my RCM this takes about 6-8 revolutions.
I keep meaning to buy some of that enzymatic cleaner, just as another way of attacking the dirt, but I haven't got around to that yet. I wonder if it might be a way of improving those LPs that don't clean up with the regime above.
Cleaning LPs is not something that you can do for an extended period, like a full day. Pick say 10 and clean them, then do another batch another night. Otherwise you'll drive yourself mad!
Good luck with it,
Fran
As far as I can tell, the triton/rinse aid is only used as a wetting agent, and not as a detergent in the normal sense. It allows the liquid to get down into the grooves. From what I can reason out, the water dissolves a lot of gunk and what it can't get, the alcohol will get out.
Know that you will acheive great results on most ones you clean, OK results on a few and then there will be some that no matter what you do, you will not get them clean! Also be aware that of course if the record is phyically damaged, then cleaning won't improve matters.
On the design of the rcm, mine only rotates in one direction and at about 20rpm (which is about what the commercial ones seem to run at). I made a hold down clamp 95mm wide fitted with a rubber o-ring at its outside edge so that the label is sealed and the cleaning liquid can't get in at it. One switch for rotate, the other for vacuum. My motor is a geared 100rpm motor salvaged from scrap and the vacuum is from an old vacuum cleaner. I put in a bottle trap so that if any liquid should build up then it won't get to the vacuum motor. So far I have never seen any liquid in it - it just evaporates in the airstream. On extended cleaning sessions the vacuum motor can get pretty warm.
My regime is like this:
Clamp on the lp, apply some liquid with a paintbrush. Allow it to sit for a few minutes. Turn on the RCM with the cleaning brush in place (again a paintbrush, 100mm wide and synthetic) allow it to brush for say 20 revolutions (about 1 min). Suck off the fluid. Then I repeat this again. If it isn't clean after this then it won't ever be. Make sure you leave the vacuum on for long enough to get all the liquid off (especially after the second clean) - theres no point in leaving it there to evaporate and deposit whatever solids it had dissolved! If you look across the lp as it is being sucked dry, you will see it dry and the surface change. On my RCM this takes about 6-8 revolutions.
I keep meaning to buy some of that enzymatic cleaner, just as another way of attacking the dirt, but I haven't got around to that yet. I wonder if it might be a way of improving those LPs that don't clean up with the regime above.
Cleaning LPs is not something that you can do for an extended period, like a full day. Pick say 10 and clean them, then do another batch another night. Otherwise you'll drive yourself mad!
Good luck with it,
Fran
...
Thanks again, Fran.
I will keep in mind your suggestions for when I start to use my RCM. But as for my "liquid problem", no resolution yet. The only wetting agent available to me now is Triton x-110, and I don't know if it's OK to use it or not. If not, were can I get the proper wetting agent. Also, I don't understand the meaning of the frase - "rinse aid", maybe you can explain.
A little about my RCM, it is much simpler then what you described, though I believe it will be very efficiant.
I took an old turn-table and emptied it from every mechanical/electronical part, leaving just the platter and the bearing. I used drip-irrigation-system rubber hoses which are very easy to handle and on the other hand, made of hard-rubber that holds very stable and straight even under preasure, to build the vacuming system, as seen in the photos in the link below. Two things are still missing - velvet aroung the sucking crack and a clamp that will protect the entire lable. I use a regular vacum that's connected nicely to the hose system, as you can see. I also apply the cleaning liquid manully, without a constructed brush.
what do you think?
link: http://www.showme.co.il/gallery.asp?u=lop23&album=16235
Thanks again, Fran.
I will keep in mind your suggestions for when I start to use my RCM. But as for my "liquid problem", no resolution yet. The only wetting agent available to me now is Triton x-110, and I don't know if it's OK to use it or not. If not, were can I get the proper wetting agent. Also, I don't understand the meaning of the frase - "rinse aid", maybe you can explain.
A little about my RCM, it is much simpler then what you described, though I believe it will be very efficiant.
I took an old turn-table and emptied it from every mechanical/electronical part, leaving just the platter and the bearing. I used drip-irrigation-system rubber hoses which are very easy to handle and on the other hand, made of hard-rubber that holds very stable and straight even under preasure, to build the vacuming system, as seen in the photos in the link below. Two things are still missing - velvet aroung the sucking crack and a clamp that will protect the entire lable. I use a regular vacum that's connected nicely to the hose system, as you can see. I also apply the cleaning liquid manully, without a constructed brush.
what do you think?
link: http://www.showme.co.il/gallery.asp?u=lop23&album=16235
Looks good to me, my first version was just like that. It was only when I got the motors free that I made a motorised version.
Rinse aid - you know the stuff you put in your dishwasher machine that makes your glasses sparkle. Not the main detergent, but the stuff that typically goes in a small dispenser just beside that. You can buy it in any supermarket, usually right beside where you buy the detergent for the dishwasher.
Heres a link that might explain it better
rinse aid
Fran
Rinse aid - you know the stuff you put in your dishwasher machine that makes your glasses sparkle. Not the main detergent, but the stuff that typically goes in a small dispenser just beside that. You can buy it in any supermarket, usually right beside where you buy the detergent for the dishwasher.
Heres a link that might explain it better
rinse aid
Fran
RCM...
where is it..? I keep getting distracted by the Script for a Jesters Tear cover 😉
Joking aside, it looks good - hope you get many years out of it 8)
Owen
where is it..? I keep getting distracted by the Script for a Jesters Tear cover 😉
Joking aside, it looks good - hope you get many years out of it 8)
Owen
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